Vendetta Center brace for Vendetta / Infraction Mega / Infraction 3s

Damsel in Distress

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Needed a "build" thread to reach 100% Account Progress, so I decided to make one on something I couldn't find in the search. Credit goes to @rjinaz for the idea / inspiration. He shows the result in his Vendetta build thread, but I wanted to elaborate upon it in case anyone else would like to replicate. This will fit a Vendetta, Infraction Mega, Infraction 3s.

I bought the complete center brace with ball cups and balls from JRC (I recommend buying multiple items from JRC to combine shipping costs):

Arrma LIMITLESS V2 6s - RED Center Brace 309mm & Balls cups infraction ARA7116V2
00.jpg


If you prefer to buy the parts separately, or need to replace a part that was lost or broken, here are the specific Arrma parts:

ARA320502 Center Brace Bar
ARA320501 Arrma 6S BLX Center Brace Ball Cups & Balls
ARA724530 Set Screw (M5 x 30mm)

If you want the official parts to secure it to the shock towers, you can also pick up these:

ARAC9761 Nylon Nut 2.5mm
ARA723305 Cap Head Screw M3x5mm
ARA320529 Center Brace Pin

I wanted to spend the least amount of money possible, so I went to the hardware store to purchase the fasteners:
01.jpg


I also wanted to use as little specialized tools as possible, tools that maybe most people have. So I didn't use a band saw, or drill press. The one uncommon tool I used was purchased from Amazon. It's a metric drill/tap M5 X 0.8:
drill.jpg



I started with using a bench grinder to make the ball cups thinner. A handheld grinder, rotary tool, or even sandpaper could do the trick as well:
03.jpg


Next, I fit one end into the shock tower, then laid it down to measure the length and used a razer to scribe a line where I needed to cut. Don't forget to account for the length of the ball cup:
02.jpg


I removed the ball cup, then the stud (Arrma calls it a set screw) using the "double nut" technique with two M5 X 0.8 nuts:
04.jpg


Time for the hacksaw. I held the bar in a vise, but Vise Grips or pliers can substitute:
05.jpg


Didn't use a band saw so off to the grinder to make it even / smooth:
06.jpg


In order to thread in the stud, I needed to drill / tap the proper size hole. I had the tap as part of a tap & die set, but I didn't have the proper size drill bit, so I ordered a combo off of Amazon. I used a hand drill because I was too lazy to use the drill press, and I wanted to keep it simple for those who only have a drill or impact driver. After I cleaned out the hole, I utilized the "double nut" technique again to thread in the stud
07.jpg


I used a screw and nut to secure the bar into the shock towers, instead of the Arrma fasteners. I'm pretty satisfied with the result:
08.jpg
09.jpg
 

rjinaz

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Needed a "build" thread to reach 100% Account Progress, so I decided to make one on something I couldn't find in the search. Credit goes to @rjinaz for the idea / inspiration. He shows the result in his Vendetta build thread, but I wanted to elaborate upon it in case anyone else would like to replicate. This will fit a Vendetta, Infraction Mega, Infraction 3s.

I bought the complete center brace with ball cups and balls from JRC (I recommend buying multiple items from JRC to combine shipping costs):

Arrma LIMITLESS V2 6s - RED Center Brace 309mm & Balls cups infraction ARA7116V2
View attachment 243727

If you prefer to buy the parts separately, or need to replace a part that was lost or broken, here are the specific Arrma parts:

ARA320502 Center Brace Bar
ARA320501 Arrma 6S BLX Center Brace Ball Cups & Balls
ARA724530 Set Screw (M5 x 30mm)

If you want the official parts to secure it to the shock towers, you can also pick up these:

ARAC9761 Nylon Nut 2.5mm
ARA723305 Cap Head Screw M3x5mm
ARA320529 Center Brace Pin

I wanted to spend the least amount of money possible, so I went to the hardware store to purchase the fasteners:
View attachment 243728

I also wanted to use as little specialized tools as possible, tools that maybe most people have. So I didn't use a band saw, or drill press. The one uncommon tool I used was purchased from Amazon. It's a metric drill/tap M5 X 0.8:
View attachment 243741


I started with using a bench grinder to make the ball cups thinner. A handheld grinder, rotary tool, or even sandpaper could do the trick as well:
View attachment 243731

Next, I fit one end into the shock tower, then laid it down to measure the length and used a razer to scribe a line where I needed to cut. Don't forget to account for the length of the ball cup:
View attachment 243738

I removed the ball cup, then the stud (Arrma calls it a set screw) using the "double nut" technique with two M5 X 0.8 nuts:
View attachment 243740

Time for the hacksaw. I held the bar in a vise, but Vise Grips or pliers can substitute:
View attachment 243739

Didn't use a band saw so off to the grinder to make it even / smooth:
View attachment 243743

In order to thread in the stud, I needed to drill / tap the proper size hole. I had the tap as part of a tap & die set, but I didn't have the proper size drill bit, so I ordered a combo off of Amazon. I used a hand drill because I was too lazy to use the drill press, and I wanted to keep it simple for those who only have a drill or impact driver. After I cleaned out the hole, I utilized the "double nut" technique again to thread in the stud
View attachment 243757

I used a screw and nut to secure the bar into the shock towers, instead of the Arrma fasteners. I'm pretty satisfied with the result:
View attachment 243758 View attachment 243759
Thanks for the mention... great write up.
Your process was definitely more detailed than mine, but pretty much what I had to do to modify my center brace.
Instead of using a taper threaded drill bit, I simply drilled out the shaft and used a stainless machine bolt to cut the threads in. The shaft is soft aluminum, so if you don't have a tap and die set, a little oil and a properly sized steel bolt will do the trick. ;)
 

bmoscato

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Very cool DYI, thanks!

FYI, I was taught years ago to never grind nonferrous metal on a grinder... no spark = no good. The aluminum clogs the pores and has the potential to frag. At least that is what we learned in shop class as well as 10 years of working with aluminum on aircraft.
 

Damsel in Distress

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Very cool DYI, thanks!

FYI, I was taught years ago to never grind nonferrous metal on a grinder... no spark = no good. The aluminum clogs the pores and has the potential to frag. At least that is what we learned in shop class as well as 10 years of working with aluminum on aircraft.
Thank you for the tip! I knew it wasn't good for the wheel, but it's getting replaced anyway 😅. If you look at the pictures, the wheel has grooves in it (got it from my buddy that way - he said they were from sharpening axes). The new wheel is right under it (just out of the pic).
 

Tex Koder

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Thank you for the tip! I knew it wasn't good for the wheel, but it's getting replaced anyway 😅. If you look at the pictures, the wheel has grooves in it (got it from my buddy that way - he said they were from sharpening axes). The new wheel is right under it (just out of the pic).

How on earth do you end up putting grooves in the grid stone From sharpening axes!!??
 

Diem Turner

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How on earth do you end up putting grooves in the grid stone From sharpening axes!!??
You should see what happened to my grind stone from grinding down a pinion to make my own 5mm to 8mm shaft adapter. It happens faster than you think. I even tried annealing the gear to make it a little easier on the wheel, but it definitely left its mark.
 

bmoscato

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Thank you for the tip! I knew it wasn't good for the wheel, but it's getting replaced anyway 😅. If you look at the pictures, the wheel has grooves in it (got it from my buddy that way - he said they were from sharpening axes). The new wheel is right under it (just out of the pic).
Yeah, that wheel has seen better days. LOL... I would use/buy a wheel dresser and use it when you start to seeing a hint of grooves.

https://www.mscdirect.com/industrialtools/desmond-grinding-wheel-dressers.html
 

Bassamatic 2000

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Last edited:

Bassamatic 2000

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Very cool DYI, thanks!

FYI, I was taught years ago to never grind nonferrous metal on a grinder... no spark = no good. The aluminum clogs the pores and has the potential to frag. At least that is what we learned in shop class as well as 10 years of working with aluminum on aircraft.
I grind tungstens for tig welding on grinding wheels all the time. You should always dress the wheel before use. It clears all the junk off the wheel so it won't contaminate your work.
 

Damsel in Distress

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It's exactly 10 3/8" which converts to 263.525 mm. That one would likely be very close. Worst case you could trim the plastic ball cups, that would be easier.
 
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