Outcast Center brace
- Thread starter 72Z15SS
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Outcaster
Active Member
Yep looks good @72Z15SS.
Did you use the same fastening method to the towers as your Typhon project? As I mentioned in that post, I was looking at the dual brace installation you utilized for that project on my Outcast, but decided to go single for easier access to battery tray, servo, etc.
Any close up pics of the connection points on the towers that you could provide?
Did you use the same fastening method to the towers as your Typhon project? As I mentioned in that post, I was looking at the dual brace installation you utilized for that project on my Outcast, but decided to go single for easier access to battery tray, servo, etc.
Any close up pics of the connection points on the towers that you could provide?
- Thread starter
- #4
Those are fabricated, and they're on several of my cars. It's ABS plastic and really not that strong but doesn't need to be. Don't have any close ups of the brace. They're done the same way as my other one. Only difference is the screws are longer.
I just got some material today that I made the bumpers out of. Thinner than the other stuff so I might make mud guards for the Fazon and Nero. Started making templates already! LOL. The Fazon and Nero mud guards will wrap under the arms as skids as well.
@Outcaster Here are the pics you were asking about. The last pic is my body repair where it was cracked.
Outcaster
Active Member
- Thread starter
- #6
Thanks for the compliment Outcaster, I try to make things look like they're somewhat stock. As for the inserts, I had 1 left over from the tree they were mounted to. I believe they are a Dave Brown product. (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXB902&P=M) The other I had to make out of thicker stuff I had lying around. came up with a neat little trick to make them consistently round.
Outcaster
Active Member
Great, thanks for the link!
- Thread starter
- #8
No problem. I just cut the points off and either glue them in or drill a small hole in the shaft and run a small screw in to hold them in place. I went to Cabelas and the arrow shafts were ridiculous, so I stopped at WalMart and bought a few crossbow shafts. They say Carbon on them but???
- Thread starter
- #10
Just finishing up changing shock oils and adding the washer I see others doing. Im going 60wt (800 cst) in rear and 80wt (1000 cst) up front. Rear already feels better with the Team Durango Springs... Just waiting for all the air bubbles to escape. Pesky bubbles!
Maybe I will next time. I get so wrapped up in what I'm doing I don't want to stop and take pictures...LOL
W
I need to do it before they run !!
what do you use to fix the cracks in the shell bro ?
I need to do it before they run !!
- Thread starter
- #12
I used 30 minute epoxy and cut strips of fine fiberglass cloth. Not the type for auto repair. It's actually used for reinforcing the center wing joints on an rc plane. Tower Hobbies sells it. I was going to use drywall tape but the mesh is too open. Brush on the epoxy with a flux brush or similar then lay the cloth over it, push it into the epoxy with a toothpick or something then brush on epoxy over top to saturate the cloth. You can smooth it out by wetting your finger and lightly smooth over it.
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Outcaster
Active Member
@72Z15SS I posted this same question to TwiZted SkullZ in the chassis forum as he did a similar brace to yours but out of aluminum.
I have some 1/2" thick walled aluminum rod and some 7 & 8 mm graphite rods as well that I have been playing around with, haven't decided which I'm going to use yet? I can't seem to get a good alignment through the body support tower with the different height in the front and rear shock towers.
I can't tell from your pics, but did you cut any of the cross supports in the center tower to allow for better alignment to fasten the bar at each of the towers without putting pressure on one end or the other?
- Thread starter
- #14
I'll take a picture of it later, but I only trimmed one cross piece out of the center roll cage. From the one pic, you might be able to see it's the one top left cross piece. I can also remove the rod without removing the cage. I'm using 7mm rod but if you go 8mm you may have to trim the top cross piece slightly, but not much. Shouldn't affect the strength of the cage.
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Outcaster
Active Member
Thanks!
Figured that would be the case, just thought I'd check before cutting it up.
Figured that would be the case, just thought I'd check before cutting it up.
- Thread starter
- #16
Outcaster
Active Member
Yep, okay, that's what I was going to cut out to get it to fit. Glad to hear it doesn't impact the integrity of the cage.
Thanks for the pic!
