Notorious Center diff…exploded!?!

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Agree with Slim. If you go 6s all the time I would start with the 300. If you run mostly 4s and sometimes 6s then go 500k. The problem I find with 500k and 6s power is too much wheelie. I like wheelie when I push it hard not when I touch the trigger.
You will always wheelie easily because of the SWB of the OC/Noto., but there will be much less power bleed from the rear with thicker oil in the center. Power bleed from the rear to the front is what damages tires, the Center and Front diffs. Drop your punch down and/or use a better Thr. finger for wheelie control.
Edit.
Many say EXB diffs run better closer to stock oil weight. LSD plates limit the diff action by themselves. With Open diffs, a thicker oil determines the diff action.
 
I got 300k. Is that going to be that much of a difference?
It will be a little stiff, but the Noto has tall tires, so it might not be too bad. I set up an open center diff with 2m and a LSD with 200k for my trugged typhon, and the resulting starting effect was the same. Under power, the LSD is more firm. For me, ballooning is a way to visualize diff balance, but actual driving and turning dictate what's best. I have no desire to run a spool or even emulate one on my bashers.
 
Keep in mind that we are mixing terms, there are LSD diffs and there are standard diffs.
The thread is now mixing all of them like they are the same.

LSD need less weight to act the same compared to standard. Someone mentioned a ration of 10x but I don't have any and can't confirm.
200k standard would be 2M in an LSD if that is true.
 
In fact a true LSD differential should use oil for lubrication/cooling vs. "silicone oil" in an open diff where you are trying to simulate lock-up.
 
It's just a way of generating resistance with a means of biasing which output axle gets power applied to it. Shear fenestrations and silicone do that pretty well with the EXB LSD, just like a clutch-pak automotive limited slip
 
the lsd diffs in my talion exb where stripping my wheel hexes at the back so tuck the lsd plates out and got the shim kit for them all works a lot better for me now
 
I've got the newer version exb 6s with 3 lsd , and I immediately change to 50k/f- 200k/c - 30k/r and the thing handles like a dream, super smooth, not constantly on its rear tires but enough that when you need the power you could get it. Super tight turns, smooth launches. I run alittle if everything terrain wise, grass,gravel,dirt, blacktop, consistant 15ft + vertical jumps..
 
Do you know if the outcast exb differential is a direct drop in? Im going to buy one off jennys tonight if so.
Its a direct drop in i only use LSD diffs better in every way. Never managed to melt the diff cases of either of them. You can tuen the LSD diff to open diffs if you get the open diff kit for it
the lsd diffs in my talion exb where stripping my wheel hexes at the back so tuck the lsd plates out and got the shim kit for them all works a lot better for me now
Yeah LSD is nit good for the rear diff
I have 100k LSD on my center diffs in my outcast and kraton. Outcast wheelies on command. Kraton too but a bit less. Maybe i need 150k idk why people go up to like 500k. Both have 20k front less restrictive setup and 12.5k open in the rear
 
Do you know if the outcast exb differential is a direct drop in? Im going to buy one off jennys tonight if so.
Outcast or mojave or any 50t exb diff in the middle back front fit
Do you have the part number for spare center diff gaskets? Im looking at the parts diagram and it only shows the conplete differential. I cant find the gasket i need.
I cut one from tick paper no difference
 
Keep in mind that we are mixing terms, there are LSD diffs and there are standard diffs.
The thread is now mixing all of them like they are the same.

LSD need less weight to act the same compared to standard. Someone mentioned a ration of 10x but I don't have any and can't confirm.
200k standard would be 2M in an LSD if that is true.
^^^ This.
Agree.
With LSD's the LSD plates themselves are responsible more so for Slip Diff action. Thinner oils can fine tune this up to a point. based on prefernce. Don't over shoot oil CSt's with any LSD diff. It will become almost locked under initial loading. This is also relative to what LSD Staging your chosen setup is, when building an LSD diff.
WIth Standard Open diffs, the CST Value of the oil you use, remains in complete control of the diff action.
@jkflow important point was made, so as not to confuse others.(y)
 
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Yep, mine leaked out of the box on the first run, leaking fluid and the oil level is a definite issue on the center diff...Bought a backup and the screws were loose on the diff cup as well....As soon as you see any fluid and it being wet/oily in that area, it needs to be checked on a new rig...Sorry to hear... Happy Trails !!

Notorious2.jpg
 
Call Horizon, it's under warranty - at least you'll get a replacement center diff, but I'd still suggest upgrading the housing to the aluminum one. We did that on a Kraton 6s that had a center diff melt down probably because of insufficient grease. We got a warranty replacement and also got an aluminum case and did a good rebuild.
 
Heya, bad luck dude! Still now you have something to fix! I. Had a couple of Suggestions as to why it happened. It could have been running dry as they forgot diff oil in the factory. Then the other thing is that the peice which holds the center diff in place can feel like it's in right but isn't always and if it was off it could easily have caused this.

I ve had a lot of success with metal diff housing from HR too. I get less issues now. I will be honest though, from all of my arrma diffs the notorious has been notoriously bad and have rebuilt more than I care to mention. One thing that really helps is making sure the diff is snug using very thin washers.

Good luck chap
 
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