Notorious Center diff mount

[Spug]

Anyone know who makes a good, legit center diff mount for the 6s trucks? I've seen a couple online but they don't seem to be by companies that I recognize so I'm a little iffy.
By the way, check this out! LOL. Literally melted to nothing this time.

 

[RCbuzz]

That is the craziest failure I have seen yet.

Bummer for sure.. this is usually from low or thin center diff fluid. Check into the metal diff case, or if you need a whole new center diff the Fireteam center is all aluminum.

You could also grab a new stock center diff as well and use a thicker fluid.

Hot Racing does make 6s aluminum center diff mounts if you want it to fit the first time .

Good luck!

 

[Johnny b]

Anyone know who makes a good, legit center diff mount for the 6s trucks? I've seen a couple online but they don't seem to be by companies that I recognize so I'm a little iffy.
By the way, check this out! LOL. Literally melted to nothing this time.

View attachment 298903

View attachment 298904

PLEASE enter this in the monthly carnage contest! You got this!

 

[Radiocontrolsoul]

Was there no noise associated with this carnage??

 

[Johnny b]

Was there no noise associated with this carnage??

Evidently just fire.

 

[hobo]

never had that happen blimey you need the arrma aluminium centre diff for sure

 

[PrerunninF150]

Color me impressed thats quite the failure. There had to be warning signs before that happened? Backstory? I have the aluminum Arrma cases all around and haven't had issues yet.

 

[Dan B.]

Wow, man. What diff fluid were you running? Thin to none? I know @SrC said he’s melted them before and always recommends the aluminum diff in the center, but I’m not sure any of his melted down. Run hard, do ‘ya?
Also, this is a perfect opportunity to get the PPS mount. It just drips with awesomeness, not melted plastic goo.

 

[Garcbomber]

Hellen Keller even felt something was wrong a few minutes prior…

 

[Spug]

LOL!
This is the third diff I've put in this truck in the seven weeks that I've owned it. Arrma keeps sending them out to me under warranty and they crap out in like three runs. I don't even beat the truck very hard either. Hopefully I can talk them into an aluminum one this time since they can't seem to get the plastic ones to hold up. Or maybe I'll try that Fireteam one. Good to know!

As far as fluid goes, I replaced the fluid in the original one with stock 100k after ten packs. The last two that I dropped in were right out of the package and into the truck. I'm guessing that they were pretty much dry since when they exploded there wasn't much fluid anywhere. I'll pull the next one apart and check it before I run.

 

[Garcbomber]

You have a front or rear drivetrain binding problem(bearing seized/tight mesh/axle obstruction) if you’re not speed running in the desert. If the Stock motor is not overheating, then you know it’s isolated to the front or rear transfer.

 

[SrC]

@Spug, Feel your pain.
When HH sends out a diff, It MUST be opened up. As if it is the Stocker one out the box.
What exactly is failing within the diff?
Can't be the exact same failure every single time. Usually not. Hint....If so, it's probably user error? IDK.
Never drop in a new one right out the package. You will never get a "Good One" to trust. Promise.
They all come from the same Chinese factory, OE stocker as well as the retail replacements from anywhere you buy them including from JennysRC.
I could see justifying a "Break-In" of a new unopened Diff. But one pack gently run is all I might do at most. Then rebuild it, whether you feel it is fine or not.
With any replacement diff, that it is uninstalled, always open it up first. You have it out already in hand. Top it off at a minimum. But I highly recommend removing ALL the old oil and installing the recommended Thicker oils we all mostly use. (60kF/500k center/20-30k Rr)
DO this out the gate always, and you can surely get 15-20 packs out of them before preventative maintenance is in order. Throttling under hard loads, landings and impacts will also destroy any diff sooner than later. ALL factory assembled diffs are low on oil and the oil is just too thin to begin with. The diff can and will literally melt into a molten chunk of plastic and gears with the remaining oil becoming like Tar. A complete $loss$, BB's and all. The center diff can hit 250F degrees in a heart beat. Been there. Temp gun in hand. Not pretty. A mess. Buy a temp gun. A needed inexpensive tool for the ESC, moto, lipos, as well as center diff.
I recommend the Fireteam Metal Alloy Arrma diffs at the Center. Temps will stay cooler. It comes with 300k. BUT is still low on oil. And 500k at a minimum is best for bashing hard.
Still need to open it up and refill it. Never felt the need for an alloy diff at the Fr and Rr diffs. Plastic stocker ones have been fine for me using 6s lipos.

https://jennysrc.com/collections/fi...-50t-spur-gear-ara7618?variant=39857937809462

Tip:
Use a Mugen Seiki diff Shim kit instead of the stocker ones. Way better and will keep the Satellite and Suns gears aligned better. The Arrma diff gear shims are crap and bend and wear out easily. Use a smear of greae on the Output cup Shafts before inserting the BB and Ouput cups. Let the oil bleed out for a while as you fill them. Or you can end up with an underfilled diff without realizing it. Filling is a slow process if done correctly.

https://www.amazon.com/MUGEN-Differential-Washer-M-Spec-MUGC1206/dp/B000BMPK2U

Do diffs correctly or they wil cost you $$$ needlessly. There is a leaning curve with the diffs. Once you learn it you will understand it better. Arrms diffs are needy otherwise. Always failing. Driver input control is also paramount. I hope your Main Gear/Input Gear shimming is also correct. Never overlook this! Or its also a fail very quickly as well.
Watch some videos to help get the hang of it. Like stated abve in a post, Buy the allo front diff support and Top plate, Helps with cooling also. Plastic one can and will distort and melt when the diff does. Been there.
Good luck.

 

[Spug]

@Spug, Feel your pain.
When HH sends out a diff, It MUST be opened up. As if it is the Stocker one out the box.
What exactly is failing within the diff?
Can't be the exact same failure every single time. Usually not. Hint....If so, it's probably user error? IDK.
Never drop in a new one right out the package. You will never get a "Good One" to trust. Promise.
They all come from the same Chinese factory, OE stocker as well as the retail replacements from anywhere you buy them including from JennysRC.
I could see justifying a "Break-In" of a new unopened Diff. But one pack gently run is all I might do at most. Then rebuild it, whether you feel it is fine or not.
With any replacement diff, that it is uninstalled, always open it up first. You have it out already in hand. Top it off at a minimum. But I highly recommend removing ALL the old oil and installing the recommended Thicker oils we all mostly use. (60kF/500k center/20-30k Rr)
DO this out the gate always, and you can surely get 15-20 packs out of them before preventative maintenance is in order. Throttling under hard loads, landings and impacts will also destroy any diff sooner than later. ALL factory assembled diffs are low on oil and the oil is just too thin to begin with. The diff can and will literally melt into a molten chunk of plastic and gears with the remaining oil becoming like Tar. A complete $loss$, BB's and all. The center diff can hit 250F degrees in a heart beat. Been there. Temp gun in hand. Not pretty. A mess. Buy a temp gun. A needed inexpensive tool for the ESC, moto, lipos, as well as center diff.
I recommend the Fireteam Metal Alloy Arrma diffs at the Center. Temps will stay cooler. It comes with 300k. BUT is still low on oil. And 500k at a minimum is best for bashing hard.
Still need to open it up and refill it. Never felt the need for an alloy diff at the Fr and Rr diffs. Plastic stocker ones have been fine for me using 6s lipos.

https://jennysrc.com/collections/fi...-50t-spur-gear-ara7618?variant=39857937809462

Tip:
Use a Mugen Seiki diff Shim kit instead of the stocker ones. Way better and will keep the Satellite and Suns gears aligned better. The Arrma diff gear shims are crap and bend and wear out easily. Use a smear of greae on the Output cup Shafts before inserting the BB and Ouput cups. Let the oil bleed out for a while as you fill them. Or you can end up with an underfilled diff without realizing it. Filling is a slow process if done correctly.

https://www.amazon.com/MUGEN-Differential-Washer-M-Spec-MUGC1206/dp/B000BMPK2U

Do diffs correctly or they wil cost you $$$ needlessly. There is a leaning curve with the diffs. Once you learn it you will understand it better. Arrms diffs are needy otherwise. Always failing. Driver input control is also paramount. I hope your Main Gear/Input Gear shimming is also correct. Never overlook this! Or its also a fail very quickly as well.
Watch some videos to help get the hang of it. Like stated abve in a post, Buy the allo front diff support and Top plate, Helps with cooling also. Plastic one can and will distort and melt when the diff does. Been there.
Good luck.

Right on man. Thanks for the tips. Much appreciated! Once they stop sending me warranty diffs, I'll go ahead and get the aluminum setup. I asked them in my last email if they'd upgrade to an aluminum one for me. We'll see how it goes.

 

[SrC]

Good luck.

 

[RCbuzz]

Right on man. Thanks for the tips. Much appreciated! Once they stop sending me warranty diffs, I'll go ahead and get the aluminum setup. I asked them in my last email if they'd upgrade to an aluminum one for me. We'll see how it goes.

If they help you out again be sure to crack it open and get some thicker fluid in there as a minimum.

I have not fried a stocker yet ensuring the fluid was full and around 500K fluid thickness. (I also don't have the drive time a lot of members do though).

I am also careful when driving, If I see the center diff "diffing out" I back off the throttle.

 

[SrC]

I always recommend dropping the ESC's "Punch" setting down considerably if not all the way. Best for newbs. The Drivetrain will thank you. And you can thank me later also. Just that most Newbs have no clue what the Punch setting even is. Rarely reading the ESC's manual. Just in a hurry to Drive....then break things quickly. Like a kid with a brand new Toy.
I did that with my Sons Arrma's. And he now prefers it this way, even now, after he became a star at driving.
He actually breaks less also. And runs all 6s packs in his Infr. and Noto.

Edited.

 

[Spug]

You have a front or rear drivetrain binding problem(bearing seized/tight mesh/axle obstruction) if you’re not speed running in the desert. If the Stock motor is not overheating, then you know it’s isolated to the front or rear transfer.

Everything is buttery smooth

If they help you out again be sure to crack it open and get some thicker fluid in there as a minimum.

I have not fried a stocker yet ensuring the fluid was full and around 500K fluid thickness. (I also don't have the drive time a lot of members do though).

I am also careful when driving, If I see the center diff "diffing out" I back off the throttle.

I try to do the same thing but this Notorious always has the front wheels in the air. I almost don't want to go with a thicker viscosity fluid for that reason.

 

[Spug]

You have a front or rear drivetrain binding problem(bearing seized/tight mesh/axle obstruction) if you’re not speed running in the desert. If the Stock motor is not overheating, then you know it’s isolated to the front or rear transfer.

Everything is buttery smooth

I always recommend dropping the ESC's "Punch" setting down considerably if not all the way. Best for newbs. The Drivetrain will thank you. And you can thank me later also. Just that most Newbs have no clue what the Punch setting even is. Rarely reading the ESC's manual. Just in a hurry to Drive....then break things quickly. Like a kid with a brand new Toy.
I did that with my Sons Arrma's. And he now prefers it this way, even now, after he became a star at driving.
He actually breaks less also. And runs all 6s packs in his Infr. and Noto.

Edited.

Another good point. I've left my Talion and Notorious on the factory punch settings thus far. I'd have to look again but I think they are both at 5. My daughter is twelve and she runs the Notorious the majority of the time. When she does she leaves it at 50-75% throttle on the transmitter. We're both happier that way! More run time for her and less repairs for me.
We've learned to get a good feel for these 6S vehicles. They aren't fragile but they do need to be driven properly. My buddy down the street just doesn't get it. He's at 110% throttle 110% of the time and he breaks something every single run. It's hilarious.

 

[SrC]

Yeah I see many guys like that. Just run it balls to the wall for like barely a half pack, break it and walk home. Never considering that Driver input is an issue for some. Usually blaming the rig.

Dropping the Punch ALL the way down really spares drivetrain parts. On 6s becomes more driveable as well. All will run way cooler, Especially important in hotter summer climates. All while gettng more run time. I also drop my ESC timing down to 3 degrees, give or take.
At some point, driver skill and experience will eventually dictate Higher Punch settings.
For dedicated speed runs you should always drop the Punch Completely Down. Best way to avoid Amp Cutting and high temps with hard passes. The best way to get consistent passes, with less carnage. Your Lipos will also thank you.

For Drag running, You want to dial in your Punch "just right", for successfull Launches off the line. Need it. Radio's Throttle Exponential setting is also helpful here, if you have a decent Upgrade radio.