Granite Changing esc

[Senton_Prime]

Stock blx in my V2 senton still runs like a top, 26t pinion.. See there is a problem with these motors and nobody knows..
Quick tip: The front bearing in the blx was flawed.. Its too small to get a good seal around the motor shaft opening.. If u run on any terrain besides asphalt (even still) u will quickly burn this bearing up.. The original bearing size is a 5x14x4, letting massive amounts of dirt and debris into the motor housing!! Not good, u need to pull this bearing out and replace it with a 5x16x5.. Presto, problem solved!!
Edit: sheet my bad, why i thought u guys were talking motors is beyond me!! None the less stock blx esc, with some backups!!
150a and 2050kv went in my KEXB!!

 

[ksearyback]

Learn how to solder, you are in it with a $30 investment and some practice.
You will save a bunch of money by learning that skill.

Just some unsolicited advice

I'm confused by this. If I ever have the replace any electronics (motor/ESC?) is there no way to purchase upgrades without having to solder my own wires/connectors? If that's the case I'll probably just throw the trucks out as they break. I can barely change the tires without screwing something up.

 

[parcou]

I'm confused by this. If I ever have the replace any electronics (motor/ESC?) is there no way to purchase upgrades without having to solder my own wires/connectors? If that's the case I'll probably just throw the trucks out as they break. I can barely change the tires without screwing something up.

Understand it's a challenge before I finally began soldering I used the local hobby shop to solder batteries, ESC ends etc. It was only $5 or few dollars so do that for now.

Buying electronics with the exact end on them is a challenge that will limit you don't want that.

 

[jkflow]

You can always buy stock with everything installed.

My issues, bullets melted off, $0.50 to solder or $140 for an ESC.
Larger battery connectors etc.

Soldering is not mandatory, but it saves a bunch of money.

 

[*420+3RC*]

I'm confused by this. If I ever have the replace any electronics (motor/ESC?) is there no way to purchase upgrades without having to solder my own wires/connectors? If that's the case I'll probably just throw the trucks out as they break. I can barely change the tires without screwing something up.

TRUST ME and somw folks can tell you I had HELL starting out. It'll cost some $ to learn but we are all here to help. I promise if these guys can talk me down and talk me thru the problems then just settle in ask questions and hopefully all goes better for ya

 

[ksearyback]

TRUST ME and somw folks can tell you I had HELL starting out. It'll cost some $ to learn but we are all here to help. I promise if these guys can talk me down and talk me thru the problems then just settle in ask questions and hopefully all goes better for ya

Partly, it's time and effort I'd rather not spend learning something like this if I could pay for an off the shelf plug-and-play option... but also, I'm a disaster attempting to learn, and then execute on plans to perform routine maintenance, as well as fixing/replacing broken parts with upgrades.

The more I learn, the more I become confused. And the more I attempt to take care of the trucks, the more impaired they become.

Two weeks ago was my first attempt to check the diffs (and fill), and I also had to replace a dead servo, and a broken front a arm. I was happy with the effort when I initially finished, but then I began to realize I somehow created all sorts of new issues.

The new servo really isn't working as expected. One reason the servo may not be able to perform is because it appears my front wheels (and all the tie rods, links, and whatever the plastic piece surrounding my axle at the hex) are not in alignment anymore, and really the front left and front seem crooked. Finally, the plasitc piece that sits around where the drive shaft meets the axle, that piece binds to the drive shaft when i put the screws into that hub piece.

So basically, my guess is that somehow my messing with maintenance on the diff maybe messed up the connection with the drive shaft. The result of the diff impact on the drive shaft made the front left an right of the truck uneven (non-symmetrical). The right steering link can't really turn the car well (despite a new servo), because the binding around the bottom of the drive shaft won't allow the steering links to steer the tires cleanly. (And I haven't even included the problems I've had replacing broken front a arm with RPM arms, which exacerbated by the fact that my after market shocks don't want to line up and cleaning secure to the arm.

So, yeah, I'm just not super excited to begin soldering wires together any time soon!