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BLX Chargers and the lipos that can be used safely

Discussion in 'Typhon' started by Big B Speedy, May 13, 2018.

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  1. Big B Speedy

    Big B Speedy Well-Known Member

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    image.jpg image.jpg image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg i have this charger and currently using 2 3S lipos that came in my combo arrma typhon
    My question is will it charge the 6S lipos from SMC
    Thanks in advance for any and all info
     
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  2. Jerry-rigged

    Jerry-rigged Premium Member!
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    Will it charge the SMC 6s 7400mah batteries? Yes.
    Will it be running at max wattage and still charge very slow? Yes.
    Will your charger die young due to being overworked? Probably.

    For those big batteries, you need big wattage. Look for a charger with 200w minimum (per channel, not total). Also, most of the good, big wattage chargers are DC only, so you kind of need to plan on buying a DC power supply. SMC has a good 1050w PS for about $75 - that is the one I use.

    For a charger, look to Hitec, Reaktor, Hyperon, or iCharger. There are a few others too.

    My charger is the Reaktor 2-channe, 300w/20a per channel. Great charger, on the affordable end of big chargers.
    https://hobbyking.com/en_us/0620ac-...charger-discharger-built-in-ac-version-2.html

    They also make a 4 channel version -
    https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turbo-c...ous-balance-charger-discharger-version-2.html
    And there is a single channel, AC/DC version -
    https://hobbyking.com/en_us/0620ac-...charger-discharger-built-in-ac-version-2.html

    Hitec is a great brand - they have this new-ish chager, Ac/Dc, 2 channels, 200w per channel -
    https://www.amainhobbies.com/hitec-400w-ac-dc-balance-charger-discharger-hrc44249/p524132

    Also, I love being able to charge packs in half an hour. But that takes REALLY big watts. So, how about 700w per channel?
    https://www.amainhobbies.com/hitec-x2-700-dc-dc-multicharger-hrc44239/p481677
    (yeah, I want this one... LOL)
     
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  3. Big B Speedy

    Big B Speedy Well-Known Member

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    I see some of these chargers say AC/DC or DC/DC
     
  4. slick2500

    slick2500 Well-Known Member

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    The chargers that say AC/DC have a built in power supply, but can also be run off an external power supply. The ones listed as DC/DC do not have a built in power supply and must be run off an external unit.

    I wish Hitec wouldn't have discontinued the X2 400 charger, I really like mine and want to buy another one, unfortunately the only one I can find is used on eBay for the same price I paid for mine new.......
     
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  5. Jerry-rigged

    Jerry-rigged Premium Member!
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    Yes, the Reaktor 2- channel and 4-channel chargers, and that last charger (the 700w per channel one) need an external power supply(PSU). AC/DC = AC input, DC out to the batteries. DC/DC = DC input / DC output = needs a PSU.
     
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  6. Paultro84

    Paultro84 Well-Known Member

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    It may charge the battery slow due to lack of power but if you turn the power down a little on the charger, so you don't burn it out, it's not a big deal. It's better for the battery that way. If you can afford to upgrade your charger I certainly would. But I think it would be fine as long as you turn the amps down a little so the charger isn't going flat out.
     
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  7. olds97_lss

    olds97_lss Premium Member!
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    Just curious, why would the charger die doing it's job at max output? They have fans and whatnot.

    I have a dynamite 4x100W (4x10A) and have been using it at 10A on all 4 outputs at the same time for a year and a half. I use it to charge my SMC 2S 9000 and 7400 packs, with 10A, I'm charging a bit over 1C. I typically charge 4, unplug them, then charge 4 more right after. It doesn't seem to get too hot or anything, even when charging 4 at a time, which is what I usually do. I only use it on AC. I have a 2x12A charger in my car for DC, but it was a cheap HTRC 120Wx2 AC/DC charger. It also seems to do fine, but I haven't had it as long.
     
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  8. Jerry-rigged

    Jerry-rigged Premium Member!
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    In theory, it should not. But the reality is that, unless it is actually under-rated, or built extra heavy duty, it will be 'running hot' even with fans while running 100%. I also had a Dynamite charger, a Prophet sport Duo. Running both channels at 6 amps (max rate) in a summer garage (90f) the charger would frequently thermal out one channel. Before the summer was over, it was dead. Yes, running it at max rate in 90 deg ambient is borderline abuse, but how often do you hear "don't charge indoors"?

    My 300w per channel Reaktor, I only run it at about 150w-200w max (10a-12a per channel at 4s) and even charging all day at the track on 95f summer days, it does not miss a beat.
     
  9. olds97_lss

    olds97_lss Premium Member!
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    So, is it the PSU that causes it to overheat? So, running off a 12V source may not work it so hard?

    Or odds are, it would be a good idea to limit my charger in my car to 10A max per output vs 12A when it's 80F outside.
     
  10. Jerry-rigged

    Jerry-rigged Premium Member!
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    I really don't know what was overheating. But it would only happen when I was running both channels, and one channel would show a thermal fault, the other would keep charging. When it failed, both channels were dead, so I guessed it was something on the common bus.

    As for my current charger, I ran it for a while on a 500w AXT power supply (from a PC, about 350W on the 12v buss). Again, I had the PS running at 90-105% output frequently. This was a "good" aftermarket ATX too, not a take out from a budget PC box. It lasted about a year, then it quit.

    Now I am running a 1050w PSU. My "Normal" 10-12a per channel pulls about 200w per channel / 400w max, so I am at 2/3 charger max, and under 50% for the PSU. Hopefully this will keep everything happy even in summertime track days.
     
  11. Jerry-rigged

    Jerry-rigged Premium Member!
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    Oh and here is a table that may help. From the NEC code, a table I use to help de-rated cables for ambient conditions. Yeah, this is industrial, not hobby stuff, but the idea is the same. If we consider the ratings on our chargers are most likely "Best case" - i.e.rated A/C room temp of about 70-75f, then for a 95 deg day, you should only run your charger at 80%, or you will be risking overload / overheating. So when I was trackside, running my old PS at 95-105% of faceplate wattage, I was really running it at closer to 115%-125%! No wonder it failed.
    20180516_064118.jpg
     
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  12. Big B Speedy

    Big B Speedy Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the info

    Thanks for the info

    Thanks for the info
     
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  13. olds97_lss

    olds97_lss Premium Member!
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    AC/DC typically denotes that the charger can be powered via AC or DC input.
    AC usually means AC input only.
    DC usually means DC input only.

    Haven't come across a charger that does AC output. They all do DC output. Batteries are DC. I know some chargers do a pulse method of charging to break up crystals on the plates in NiMH/NiCAD cells... or so that's the theory. But it's still DC out.
     
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