Chassis brace

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Justin Hagan

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Arrma RC's
  1. Vorteks
  2. 4x4-Mega
Ok guys got a question. If I get aluminum chassis braces is it still necessary to put a tower to tower brace?
 
Ok guys got a question. If I get aluminum chassis braces is it still necessary to put a tower to tower brace?
Yes, no and maybe. The aluminum braces are a huge improvement over stock, but won't completely eliminate chassis flex. So it comes down to what you plan on doing. Running in the park with 5 to 10 foot jumps, you should be fine. Skate parks, bmx tracks or bigger air, a t2t will help, but a new, beefier chassis will help even more. If you do choose to run a home made t2t, the stock shock towers aren't going to like it. if you don't mind having to take them off and straightening them every few runs, you're good to go. The new V4 brace that runs the length of the truck, doesn't attach to the towers, so not sure how much it will help. Top deck plates, which attach to the front and rear bulkheads (dif cases) are a very good option, but harder to install and remove. So many options with so many opinions. Trial and error is still the best way to find out what might work best for you.
 
If I had to choose one or the other I would do the aluminum chassis braces. Then I'd do aluminum shock towers. Finally if you fear bending your chassis from massive airs, I'd prolly just buy the V4 brace bar and whatever it takes to fit it.
 
I think rich d uses same set up on his yellow kraton and I think he also said no need for a t2tb
 
If I had to choose one or the other I would do the aluminum chassis braces. Then I'd do aluminum shock towers. Finally if you fear bending your chassis from massive airs, I'd prolly just buy the V4 brace bar and whatever it takes to fit it.
Even with all this you can still bend a stock chassis especially on the LWB Kraton with
big air. 3mm stamped aluminum is just too thin. The rear of the chassis is narrow towards the end. This is where the M2C chassis reigns.
 
I think rich d uses same set up on his yellow kraton and I think he also said no need for a t2tb
Yes, some people don't run a t2t with m2c chassis. In fact Voltage recommends not using a t2t with their shock towers. It transfers energy elsewhere and breaks stuff.
 
Even with all this you can still bend a stock chassis especially on the LWB Kraton with
big air. 3mm stamped aluminum is just too thin. The rear of the chassis is narrow towards the end. This is where the M2C chassis reigns.
exactly what I was just implying the m2c chassis has to be the best upgrade iv made by a long shot ... looks like iv been the test dummie for the m2c sliding motor mount as well for the kraton if anyone care to know it works great and looks good on the matching m2c chassis! down side the price is double the amount of the v4 sliding motor mount
 
Even with all this you can still bend a stock chassis especially on the LWB Kraton with
big air. 3mm stamped aluminum is just too thin. The rear of the chassis is narrow towards the end. This is where the M2C chassis reigns.
No doubt. I certainly agree but for me I'll bend mine first before I go with a new chassis at $100+
I've not bent my chassis yet on any 6s Arrma but have so the rear shock tower on the Noto. Maybe if I bend the shock tower first, I can just bang it flat again and keep from upgrading the chassis. We'll see. My Noto is my sender and what happens is what it is. My plan is to never baby this one and the others kinda maintain some kinda standard abuse.
 
No doubt. I certainly agree but for me I'll bend mine first before I go with a new chassis at $100+
I've not bent my chassis yet on any 6s Arrma but have so the rear shock tower on the Noto. Maybe if I bend the shock tower first, I can just bang it flat again and keep from upgrading the chassis. We'll see. My Noto is my sender and what happens is what it is. My plan is to never baby this one and the others kinda maintain some kinda standard abuse.
my kraton chassis looked like it was doing the wave after my first outing not to mention I ripped out both rear body post holes ... with the m2c chassis it stopped tearing threw my rear body post holes as well saves me money every time I take it out the beef factor has paid for itself to think all the broken stuff if I didn't have it but that's just my opinion and 2 cents as we call it not saying you need it just saying it's a good investment
 
not to pry but every time you straighten that shock tower or chassis back out it just gets weaker and weaker and bends even more frequently
 
my kraton chassis looked like it was doing the wave after my first outing not to mention I ripped out both rear body post holes ... with the m2c chassis it stopped tearing threw my rear body post holes as well saves me money every time I take it out the beef factor has paid for itself to think all the broken stuff if I didn't have it but that's just my opinion and 2 cents as we call it not saying you need it just saying it's a good investment
Certainly true, an ounce of preventive is worth a pound of cure. If you bash the Kraton hard and get big air, its a no brainer. IM0 so I agree.
 
Certainly true, an ounce of preventive is worth a pound of cure. If you bash the Kraton hard and get big air, its a no brainer. IM0 so I agree.
iv noticed even the life of my screws has exste
Absolutely!!!
funny thing is I'm more happy about the life of my screw heads than anything until you have had to drill out a ground down screw you probably won't understand but when its 3 or four man it's a pain the counter sunken screws on the m2c are awesome
 
True that as well. So far though I've not bent a chassis. If I want to not straighten stock shock towers for weakening, I can get em replaced front and back for $7.50 from Jenny RC.
https://jennysrc.com/products/arrma...luminum-anodized-ar106021?variant=33109431302
if the issue is the price its understandable... but if your looking for less maintenance and more durability try voltage hobbies or justbashit voltage hobbies has my vote higher grade aluminum and not as heavy as the justbashit ones also voltage has a 3 mm set screw that locks your hinge pins in place less wear and no more random popping out on tumbles
 
To me I just want to make my Krat and Outcast as bulletproof as possible. Don't need or want any other 6s rigs. So will concentrate on these. Don't mind the time or money to do the upgrades I want.

I have some Voltage parts and waiting on more to come. Eventually will get the m2c chassis for both. I'd rather pay up front than rather break stuff and keep fixing. I definitely don't want to have to hammer out parts when they bend over and over. And why replace weak parts with the same weak parts.

To each their own. I also want to learn about these 2 new trucks and what better way than to upgrade and start wrenching. Some may say overkill but hey its my money and what I want to do.

Chassis, chassis bracess, shock towers, servo mount are the plan. If anything along the way breaks, I'll upgrade that too if possible. Any hobby costs money, this is a drop in the bucket. I spent 10s of thousands on race cars and hotrods in my time.
 
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