Kraton Classic question of Kraton exb or blx

[Smilinbri]

I did put an rtr diff in the front of my exb when i was waiting for the rear diff from horizonhobby. Chewed two teeths. The outdrive pin holes stretched couldnt remove the outdrives from the hole i had to use an hammer. got a bloody finger while doing it. Because the outdrives were so chewed up that they became a blade. When i got cut i threw ghe whole thing into a bag and sold it with 3 diffs i removed from my notorious and replaced them witb exb day 1.

It had its chance and it failed in every single aspect. It was in the front the doff who is subject to less stress than the other diffs. To fix that mess i would have needed a new crown gear and sun gear m2c outdrives and buy blank drill bits and somehow cut them to size and make them nice and pretty like stock. Those things can take the piss

Well, sorry for your luck. No issues here. Maybe wear gloves next time? Hopefully you had a Hello Kitty bandaid to put on.

 

[Surchaufeur]

Well, sorry for your luck. No issues here. Maybe wear gloves next time? Hopefully you had a Hello Kitty bandaid to put on.

Latex gloves would have not changed the outcome

 

[Smilinbri]

Latex gloves would have not changed the outcome

Just bustin' yo balls. Main point, RTR are not the worst thing.

 

[Garcbomber]

EXB is a marketing gimmick, there’s a reason they’re always on sale and soon to be obsolete.

Only poor transmitter operators own them after they couldn’t set up a differential properly.

Just my opinion of course, but upgrade the BLX/RTR as needed and save. Any big senders on YouTube touting Arrma EXB diffs and the fake “7075” heavy alloy? Didn’t think so…

 

[Joefishey]

EXB is a marketing gimmick, there’s a reason they’re always on sale and soon to be obsolete.

Only poor transmitter operators own them after they couldn’t set up a differential properly.

Just my opinion of course, but upgrade the BLX/RTR as needed and save. Any big senders on YouTube touting Arrma EXB diffs and the fake “7075” heavy alloy? Didn’t think so…

interesting, I haven't heard this take before. I just watched some videos of talbot sending his exb, it seemed much sturdier than the stock one

 

[blakeaowen15]

Hello, so I am interested in buying a kraton, only question is whether it should be the blx or exb. I've been skimming this forum and much of the advice seems to lean towards exb, but I don't just have spare 1/8 scale power systems laying around as I am returning to this hobby. I was big into this hobby in highschool, but got tired of spending what little money I had fixing the cheap redcats I bought. Now that I've picked it up again as I'm about to graduate college, I've still got those cheap redcats (as well as some small chinese buggies), but I want to get a higher quality vehicle with better parts support, hence the kraton. I've been learning that you really get what you pay for, so I'd probably get a max6 combo for the exb, with another $70-90 spent on servo and remote, but my hesitation comes from the concern that it will be faster than my current skill (fastest car currently is a 3s mt). My other question is basically, are the stock electronics really as bad as people say, or are they just fine for someone's 1st 6s rig?

If you’re looking for a nice machine, I would get the outcast 6SEXB, they’re discontinued, but just started discontinuing them, you can find one at your local hobby shop, but definitely spend the extra and go with the EXB

 

[Surchaufeur]

EXB is a marketing gimmick, there’s a reason they’re always on sale and soon to be obsolete.

Only poor transmitter operators own them after they couldn’t set up a differential properly.

Just my opinion of course, but upgrade the BLX/RTR as needed and save. Any big senders on YouTube touting Arrma EXB diffs and the fake “7075” heavy alloy? Didn’t think so…

The exb diffs are better than the RTR in every single aspect. Same for the chassis. The exb internals don't snap in half or snap the pins in half

If you’re looking for a nice machine, I would get the outcast 6SEXB, they’re discontinued, but just started discontinuing them, you can find one at your local hobby shop, but definitely spend the extra and go with the EXB

Wait they discontinuating the exb rtr?
Rest in peace arrma

 

[RcDad23]

Had a rtr for like a year then now is a mix of HR,M2C and a HW combo just too much fun,then build an XL K6 because is just great

 

[slick2500]

The exb diffs are better than the RTR in every single aspect. Same for the chassis. The exb internals don't snap in half or snap the pins in half

Wait they discontinuating the exb rtr?
Rest in peace arrma

Yup Outcast and Mojave EXB have both been discontinued.

EXB is a marketing gimmick, there’s a reason they’re always on sale and soon to be obsolete.

Only poor transmitter operators own them after they couldn’t set up a differential properly.

Just my opinion of course, but upgrade the BLX/RTR as needed and save. Any big senders on YouTube touting Arrma EXB diffs and the fake “7075” heavy alloy? Didn’t think so…

Theory is it is 7075-0 and not 7075-T6.

Looking at the specs I am willing to bet that is the case.

7075-0[edit]​

Un-heat-treated 7075 (7075-0 temper) has a maximum tensile strength of no more than 280 MPa (40,000 psi), and maximum yield strength of no more than 140 MPa (21,000 psi). The material has an elongation (stretch before ultimate failure) of 9–10%. As is the case for all 7075 aluminum alloys, 7075-0 is highly corrosion-resistant combined with generally acceptable strength profile.

7075-T6[edit]​

T6 temper 7075 has an ultimate tensile strength of 510–540 MPa (74,000–78,000 psi) and yield strength of at least 430–480 MPa (63,000–69,000 psi). It has a failure elongation of 5–11%.[8]

The T6 temper is usually achieved by homogenizing the cast 7075 at 450 °C for several hours, quenching, and then ageing at 120 °C for 24 hours. This yields the peak strength of the 7075 alloys. The strength is derived mainly from finely dispersed eta and eta' precipitates both within grains and along grain boundaries.[9]

interesting, I haven't heard this take before. I just watched some videos of talbot sending his exb, it seemed much sturdier than the stock one

IMHO the only things worth anything from the EXB models are the diffs, but only in open configuration, the LSD is not needed at all.

 

[hobo]

Yup Outcast and Mojave EXB have both been discontinued.

Theory is it is 7075-0 and not 7075-T6.

Looking at the specs I am willing to bet that is the case.

7075-0[edit]​

Un-heat-treated 7075 (7075-0 temper) has a maximum tensile strength of no more than 280 MPa (40,000 psi), and maximum yield strength of no more than 140 MPa (21,000 psi). The material has an elongation (stretch before ultimate failure) of 9–10%. As is the case for all 7075 aluminum alloys, 7075-0 is highly corrosion-resistant combined with generally acceptable strength profile.

7075-T6[edit]​

T6 temper 7075 has an ultimate tensile strength of 510–540 MPa (74,000–78,000 psi) and yield strength of at least 430–480 MPa (63,000–69,000 psi). It has a failure elongation of 5–11%.[8]

The T6 temper is usually achieved by homogenizing the cast 7075 at 450 °C for several hours, quenching, and then ageing at 120 °C for 24 hours. This yields the peak strength of the 7075 alloys. The strength is derived mainly from finely dispersed eta and eta' precipitates both within grains and along grain boundaries.[9]

IMHO the only things worth anything from the EXB models are the diffs, but only in open configuration, the LSD is not needed at all.

your right there I have bent all aluminium on my talion EXB apart from the rear shock tower and upper front arm brace. the chassis bent really quick was worst than my v3 talion chassis 6061 aluminium

 

[slick2500]

your right there I have bent all aluminium on my talion EXB apart from the rear shock tower and upper front arm brace. the chassis bent really quick was worst than my v3 talion chassis 6061 aluminium

Yeah my Kraton EXB chassis also bent really easy. I am willing to bet dollars to donuts if they T6 hardened their 7075 parts they would not bend like cheese.

 

[Joefishey]

Yeah my Kraton EXB chassis also bent really easy. I am willing to bet dollars to donuts if they T6 hardened their 7075 parts they would not bend like cheese.

interesting, so even though many of the exb parts are still "weak"(?), you'd still recommend it b/c the diffs are so much better?

 

[hobo]

Yeah my Kraton EXB chassis also bent really easy. I am willing to bet dollars to donuts if they T6 hardened their 7075 parts they would not bend like cheese.

my corally xtr chassis is still straight 3mm 7075 don't no if its t6 though bashed the car hard as well over the last 8 months

interesting, so even though many of the exb parts are still "weak"(?), you'd still recommend it b/c the diffs are so much better?

I don't have much trouble with the rtr diffs sometimes the pins break but not enough to bother me

 

[ross_jsy]

The way I see it, and this is as a non EXB owner so I'll likely be biased.

Both standard chassis' are not massively different in strength it seems so if you are going to send it, budget an m2c or similar regardless. Given the poor chassis on the EXB, I wouldn't personally trust the braces and towers to be quality compared to m2c or other options. So I am happy with my BLXs that get upgraded as I go.

For what it's worth, I am still using BLX diffs. I broke a couple, but once I figured out shimming, or more realistically my driving skills improved, I stopped breaking them. I will try EXB diffs at some point, they just haven't been needed so far

 

[hobo]

the talion EXB chassis braces are good not bent or broke them

 

[razorrc]

Anyone who says the EXB chassis isn’t stronger than the standard chassis is nuts IMO. Yeah it’s only 7075-0. Yeah it’s only like 50% stronger than the 6061 instead of like 5x stronger with the aftermarket chassis, but it’s definitely stronger. I’m making these numbers up, but you get what I mean.

I’ve bent every 6061 chassis from every 1/8 manufacturer (Sledge, Notorious, Sketer) and none of the 7075-0 (Kraton EXB, Outcast EXB, Kronos XTR).

 

[hobo]

Anyone who says the EXB chassis isn’t stronger than the standard chassis is nuts IMO. Yeah it’s only 7075-0. Yeah it’s only like 50% stronger than the 6061 instead of like 5x stronger with the aftermarket chassis, but it’s definitely stronger. I’m making these numbers up, but you get what I mean.

I’ve bent every 6061 chassis from every 1/8 manufacturer (Sledge, Notorious, Sketer) and none of the 7075-0 (Kraton EXB, Outcast EXB, Kronos XTR).

think its the tower to tower brace that causes the chassis to bend right at the back it bends down. when I got the chassis off the car to straighten it I just put a bit of pressure on it and it bent straight really easy sure its not real 7075

 

[slick2500]

interesting, so even though many of the exb parts are still "weak"(?), you'd still recommend it b/c the diffs are so much better?

No just the diffs.

Anyone who says the EXB chassis isn’t stronger than the standard chassis is nuts IMO. Yeah it’s only 7075-0. Yeah it’s only like 50% stronger than the 6061 instead of like 5x stronger with the aftermarket chassis, but it’s definitely stronger. I’m making these numbers up, but you get what I mean.

I’ve bent every 6061 chassis from every 1/8 manufacturer (Sledge, Notorious, Sketer) and none of the 7075-0 (Kraton EXB, Outcast EXB, Kronos XTR).

It's definitely stronger than the RTR for sure.

think its the tower to tower brace that causes the chassis to bend right at the back it bends down. when I got the chassis off the car to straighten it I just put a bit of pressure on it and it bent straight really easy sure its not real 7075

I'm sure it is 7075 but it isn't hardened like say an M2C or JBI chassis is so it's not as strong as it could be.

 

[Joefishey]

No just the diffs.

It's definitely stronger than the RTR for sure.

so you'd recommend getting the rtr and just replacing parts as they break? m2c chasis when it bends, max6 when the stock stuff dies/i get bored with it, upgraded diffs when they blow, and so on? or am i misunderstanding?

 

[slick2500]

so you'd recommend getting the rtr and just replacing parts as they break? m2c chasis when it bends, max6 when the stock stuff dies/i get bored with it, upgraded diffs when they blow, and so on?

Yup. Unless they go on sale again.