Clear body instead of painting

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Clear body instead of painting

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I found that Duratrax window tint is splotchy at times too. Don’t spray for long spurts. Short and quick bursts. Or else it gave me blobs.
Tamiya tints are best from my experience. Very light coats. Its very easy to overshoot, then it turns Black. Tamiya has a very fine spray mist IMHO.
I always place my rattle cans in the sink submerged in Hot water for five or more minutes before spraying. The pressure increases , less spitting of the tip. A uniform coat resullts. I just stay with Tamiya now. Back in the day, Tamiya was all there was with rattle paints. Tried so many. I still now only use Tamiya . Spazstix is great also. They have some unique colors. But their Chrome is known to be best if you use their specific Black Backer for Chrome.. Many differnt brands of paint don't work together well when painting. Separates and peels with impacts. So stick to the same for your project body.
 
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jondilly1974

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  2. Infraction
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  5. Senton 3s
  6. Typhon 6s
  7. Typhon 3s
Tamiya tints are best from my experience. Very light coats. Its very easy to overshoot, then it turns Black. Tamiya has a very fine spray mist IMHO.
I always place my rattle cans in the sink submerged in Hot water for five or more minutes before spraying. The pressure increases , less spitting of the tip. A uniform coat resullts. I just stay with Tamiya now. Back in the day, Tamiya was all there was with rattle paints. Tried so many. I still now only use Tamiya . Spazstix is great also. They have some unique colors. But their Chrome is known to be best if you use their specific Black Backer for Chrome.. Many differnt brands of paint don't work together well when painting. Separates and peels with impacts. So stick to the same for your project body.
Another thing I realized I was doing wrong was painting downward instead of straight forward. Lesson learned. Make sure you have your can upright and paint forward to avoid the splatter. Next body will be done better. Just gotta wait for this humidity to wane.
 

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Another thing I realized I was doing wrong was painting downward instead of straight forward. Lesson learned. Make sure you have your can upright and paint forward to avoid the splatter. Next body will be done better. Just gotta wait for this humidity to wane.
Yeah what happens, if you invert the can briefly, air shoots here and there. Getting splatter. I hold the can straight up and invert my body to the spray not the other way around. Great advice. (y) Humidity wil make or break an other wise properly done paint job. I have a heat gun at the ready for between coats. When very humid, you need to use even much lighter coverage between coats. The only possible work around if you end up painting on a very humid day. Been there. You may end up with a body that looks sweet only to find the paint separates after a few bashes.
 

jondilly1974

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  1. Granite
  2. Infraction
  3. Kraton 6s
  4. Kraton EXB
  5. Senton 3s
  6. Typhon 6s
  7. Typhon 3s
Yeah what happens, if you invert the can briefly, air shoots here and there. Getting splatter. I hold the can straight up and invert my body to the spray not the other way around. Great advice. (y)
I used to just place the body upside down on a large piece of cardboard. This usually ended up with me standing over it and aiming the spray downward. Now I know I should either hold it upright or lean it up on something.
 

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  1. Infraction
  2. Limitless
  3. Kraton 6s
  4. Mojave
  5. Notorious
  6. Outcast 6s
I used to just place the body upside down on a large piece of cardboard. This usually ended up with me standing over it and aiming the spray downward. Now I know I should either hold it upright or lean it up on something.
What I do is make some type of cardboard handle taped to the outside to hold the body in my hand. PL/Protoform makes some type of suction cup handle for this purpose. I thought it was expensive myself. But its one option? So the can stays vertical. These very small paint cans come with little paint in them. So best to keep them vertical at all times. Wasting less pressure and getting most use of the paint inside it before the pressure drops too far. Or splatter occurs. Sometimes I will Drop the can in HOT water again between coats as the can gets empty and I start to see some splattering. If I don't have another can of the same paint at the ready.
 

mxfan69

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Yea please share if you end up doing it sound cool to me too & yea I didn't think of that a semi clear tint would be cool i like to see the inside of my rc lol thats where all my money is
Did this about a month ago and had forgot I commented on the thread. As others have said, have to go extremely light, as I thought I went light enough and yet its still darker than I wanted. I had to hold it to the light to see thru it well, or if I throw a flash light in the battery tray. I swear I went extremely light but obviously NOT enough...
8EDED6E0-5F5B-4272-B22D-FEF40FB65BB2.jpeg
91A65165-581B-483F-B1FB-4CFAB37CC991.jpeg
 

mxfan69

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Arrma RC's
  1. BigRock 4x4
  2. Granite
  3. Senton 3s
I saw a photo on line were someone had left the hood and the bed clear and it looked pretty cool.
Ah HA, found them actually HERE. I hope whomever owns these two awesome rigs doesn't mind me reposting their photos here as an example of what the clear partials look like. I think its awesome and plan to do it on something sooner than later.
D7AD73BC-663F-43AC-A750-0DA09B76D5A3.png
5541D6E5-8E03-49CB-BE93-28DCC6C6AAAD.png
 
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SrC

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  2. Limitless
  3. Kraton 6s
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  5. Notorious
  6. Outcast 6s
Did this about a month ago and had forgot I commented on the thread. As others have said, have to go extremely light, as I thought I went light enough and yet its still darker than I wanted. I had to hold it to the light to see thru it well, or if I throw a flash light in the battery tray. I swear I went extremely light but obviously NOT enough...
View attachment 168649
View attachment 168651 Nice owrk.
I love that body! Reminds me of a vintage retro RC10 Associated Truggy paint theme. I can paint alright, just don't enjoy it much these days. And I leave my windows clear most of the time. I just like to glance inside my rig every so often.
 

mxfan69

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  1. BigRock 4x4
  2. Granite
  3. Senton 3s
I love that body! Reminds me of a vintage retro RC10 Associated Truggy paint theme. I can paint alright, just don't enjoy it much these days. And I leave my windows clear most of the time. I just like to glance inside my rig every so often.
Yeah I was going for the late ‘70’s desert Baja 1000 type off road racing theme, and its a ‘78 Chevy body so that played into it too. I almost did black where the white is and still think that too would have looked cool
 

travykat

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Did this about a month ago and had forgot I commented on the thread. As others have said, have to go extremely light, as I thought I went light enough and yet its still darker than I wanted. I had to hold it to the light to see thru it well, or if I throw a flash light in the battery tray. I swear I went extremely light but obviously NOT enough...
View attachment 168649
View attachment 168651
Oh yea i like that i wish i had the skills & patience to get one looking like that lol id end up paying someone to paint me something like that shelf queen material foe sure & i bet thats goin look crazy in the sun 🤩 or a white led under the body 👍👍 looks awesome
 

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Here are a couple of photos of my clear body stuff. The first 3 of these date back as far as May. The last few are a build I'm working on right now that's almost finished. Build log coming soon...

UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_fb.jpg
UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_ab.jpg
UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_a0.jpg

The original plan for my build was a clear Talion body with hinges so I wouldn't have to take the body off to work on it. Was having trouble making it fit with batteries and electronics since the Talion body is so low profile and sleek (Notice how close things are to the top..and it was rubbing on the sides. If I raised it any further the body would look out of place. And I had to move it forward to get the hinges to fit which made battery placement tougher). I'm gonna keep trying though cause I still think it looks the best.
UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_ea.jpg
UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_mini_8c.jpg
UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_ec.jpg

Decided to go back to this body from the older photo since it sits up higher and I can fit everything underneath with no rubbing issues and plenty of air space.
UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_a9.jpg
UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_a6.jpg
UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_b4.jpg
UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_ac.jpg
UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_12f.jpg

UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_131.jpg

UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_mini_8c.jpg
 
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ChicagoJT

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That Brute body looks great. I just ordered it. I also have an Erevo and I think some of the under body cage system (it provides some strength to the body) can be used.
 

travykat

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Here are a couple of photos of my clear body stuff. The first 3 of these date back as far as May. The last few are a build I'm working on right now that's almost finished. Build log coming soon...

View attachment 168904
View attachment 168905
View attachment 168906

The original plan for my build was a clear Talion body with hinges so I wouldn't have to take the body off to work on it. Was having trouble making it fit with batteries and electronics since the Talion body is so low profile and sleek (Notice how close things are to the top..and it was rubbing on the sides. If I raised it any further the body would look out of place. And I had to move it forward to get the hinges to fit which made battery placement tougher). I'm gonna keep trying though cause I still think it looks the best.
View attachment 168913
View attachment 168915
View attachment 168916

Decided to go back to this body from the older photo since it sits up higher and I can fit everything underneath with no rubbing issues and plenty of air space.
View attachment 168907
View attachment 168908
View attachment 168909
View attachment 168910
View attachment 168911

View attachment 168912

View attachment 168914
Yea that looks really cool terminator vibes for sure
 

Velodromed

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  2. Granite
  3. Vorteks
  4. Voltage
Tamiya tints are best from my experience. Very light coats. Its very easy to overshoot, then it turns Black. Tamiya has a very fine spray mist IMHO.
I always place my rattle cans in the sink submerged in Hot water for five or more minutes before spraying. The pressure increases , less spitting of the tip. A uniform coat resullts. I just stay with Tamiya now. Back in the day, Tamiya was all there was with rattle paints. Tried so many. I still now only use Tamiya . Spazstix is great also. They have some unique colors. But their Chrome is known to be best if you use their specific Black Backer for Chrome.. Many differnt brands of paint don't work together well when painting. Separates and peels with impacts. So stick to the same for your project body.
Your tip for putting the can in hot water for a bit is excellent and I’ll try that. Had a good bit of ‘spitting’ on the last body that I did. Thanks man!
 

SrC

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Arrma RC's
  1. Infraction
  2. Limitless
  3. Kraton 6s
  4. Mojave
  5. Notorious
  6. Outcast 6s
Your tip for putting the can in hot water for a bit is excellent and I’ll try that. Had a good bit of ‘spitting’ on the last body that I did. Thanks man!
I do that for most any type of rattle can painting around the house.
YTuber Hemistorm does this religiously. He is the King of rattle can RC bodies.
I learned alot from him, even though I been painting RC bodies for many decades.
 

Velodromed

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  2. Granite
  3. Vorteks
  4. Voltage
I do that for most any type of rattle can painting around the house.
YTuber Hemistorm does this religiously. He is the King of rattle can RC bodies.
I learned alot from him, even though I been painting RC bodies for many decades.
Nice…your hint and the other one I saw, holding the body upright and not spraying down, should help much with my next painting attempt. Thanks man!
 
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