Notorious Clicking while braking

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Velodromed

Snatching defeat from the jaws of victory!
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Arrma RC's
  1. BigRock 4x4
  2. Granite
  3. Kraton 6s
  4. Kraton 4s
  5. Notorious
  6. Outcast 4s
  7. Vorteks
  8. Voltage
  9. Infraction 4x4
I remember a while back somebody asked about their 6s truck clicking during breaking. If I remember right, the general consensus was the front differential needed attention or be shimed?

It doesn’t click in reverse or forward but definitely does while breaking hard. I’d love to hear y’all’s thoughts on it. I’m definitely gonna open up the front differential and shim if needed but I’m wondering what else I should check. Otherwise it drives amazing! I love my notorious. Thanks guys!!
 
Pretty sure clicking during breaking is a front diff problem. Could be wrong but I'd start there for sure.
 
Pretty sure clicking during breaking is a front diff problem. Could be wrong but I'd start there for sure.
That’s what I remember from that thread recently. Just can’t find it and I’m too lazy/busy to look hard right now 😂
I think someone recently had the same problem in his talion. Maybe his thread has some info?
Yeah couldn’t find it. I’ll start with the front diff.
 
Front diff fo sho. Just ask @3d-rc.myshopify.com about his many many many MANY front diff issues in his K6S.
At one point I had 12 waiting ready to go. They are junk no matter how you shim them. I went exb diff and it’s been going a year strong so far.
 
I've got a few trucks that have ended up with that same issue. Only under braking. I finally deduced that braking is harder on the gears than the throttle, or that the gear mesh was slipping but only under braking. if it's clicking and not grinding, usually for me that meant a missing tooth. Rest of the gears were usually fine. Best of luck!
 
I've got a few trucks that have ended up with that same issue. Only under braking. I finally deduced that braking is harder on the gears than the throttle, or that the gear mesh was slipping but only under braking. if it's clicking and not grinding, usually for me that meant a missing tooth. Rest of the gears were usually fine. Best of luck!
Thanks man you pretty much described my issue and thoughts on it. For shits and giggles I put one more shim on the front diff ringside. There was a minuscule amount of play…
At one point I had 12 waiting ready to go. They are junk no matter how you shim them. I went exb diff and it’s been going a year strong so far.
I understand this now and fortunately I don’t beat on the 6s cars that hard yet. I have a gp4 diff on the rear of the noto so that’s good. I’ve 2 new regular stock diff assemblies from Jenny’s to go through then I’ll look at the gp4 diffs going forward. Thanks man! I’ll be hitting you up for some parts before to long finally! Hope you have stickers 😂
 
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Thanks man you pretty much described my issue and thoughts on it. For shits and giggles I put one more shim on the front diff ringside. There was a minuscule amount of play…

I understand this now and fortunately I don’t beat on the 6s cars that hard yet. I have a gp4 diff on the rear of the noto so that’s good. I’ve 2 new regular stock diff assemblies from Jenny’s to go through then I’ll look at the gp4 diffs going forward. Thanks man! I’ll be hitting you up for some parts before to long finally! Hope you have stickers 😂
Yes sir stickers and if the arrma forum discount is used I also have vinyl stickers that go with it. 😁
 
Yes sir stickers and if the arrma forum discount is used I also have vinyl stickers that go with it. 😁
I will have to remember that!! Um…what is it?😂


I added two shims to the front differential and it stopped the clicking for a good 10 minutes at the skate park. Then the clicking started again. But it didn’t stop me from having a freaking blast! Launching a 6s car off the skate park is very satisfying 😂

I am going to check the rear differential and make sure I have it properly shimmed. I am also going to adjust the mesh. I think I have it a touch loose. If it’s still clicking after this I’m going to figure it’s worn input gears? Or do the input gears need to be shimmed closer to the ring gear?

Also, Is it the same rule as with the 3S line that you replace the input and ring gear together? Honestly I didn’t follow that with the 3S line every time. If the ring gear looked good I had no problem throwing on a new input. I mean the input gets what, three times the exposure and wear?
 
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Damn dude sorry you're having so much diff trouble 😵‍💫
You can shim behind the input to push it closer if need be which by the sounds of it, it is.

When it's time to replace the ring I'd do the input too. Fresh start so they can wear in together. I have zero backlash on my front. It's just shy of being tight.
 
Damn dude sorry you're having so much diff trouble 😵‍💫
You can shim behind the input to push it closer if need be which by the sounds of it, it is.
When it's time to replace the ring I'd do the input too. Fresh start so they can wear in together. I have zero backlash on my front. It's just shy of being tight.
Ok, I’ll change as a set. Will also shim the rear input to start. I’m fairly positive it needs it. Then I’ll look at all else issue by issue. I like to fix/adjust one thing at a time so I can determine the problem for better diagnosing next time.

I don’t regret man. I’m glad I have issues that provide the motivation to figure these things out quickly rather then slowly. It’ll serve me better down the line. Sink or swim is how I learn best. That and sheer stubbornness to figure challenges out. I’ll take something apart and reassemble a dozen times or more if needed, even for the slightest perceived issue. The more I do things like this the better I understand things like this.
 
Only other thing that is a a cause for clicking is a warped diff housing ether the one inside with the planetary gears in it or or the plastic bulkhead its self.
And both should be easy to spot.
 
Only other thing that is a a cause for clicking is a warped diff housing ether the one inside with the planetary gears in it or or the plastic bulkhead its self.
And both should be easy to spot.
Thanks bud. Ok, I’m used to that same issue with my 3s cars. Since I have to pull it anyway to get to the input I’ll insect both closely.
 
Ok, I have shimed front and back diffs very well. It’s still clicking so I will assume it is the input gear for now and I need to shim it. What is the best way to shim that?
 
Ok, I have shimed front and back diffs very well. It’s still clicking so I will assume it is the input gear for now and I need to shim it. What is the best way to shim that?
Did you replace the ring and pinion gears? If not they are already damaged from the clicking. Once they click, they are fubar
 
Did you replace the ring and pinion gears? If not they are already damaged from the clicking. Once they click, they are fubar
Nope, I’m still on the year+ old ring/input that came with the car. I figured that’s the case but I’d rather learn on these than the brand new ones I have. Once I get it all figured out I will put the new ones in.
 
Nope, I’m still on the year+ old ring/input that came with the car. I figured that’s the case but I’d rather learn on these than the brand new ones I have. Once I get it all figured out I will put the new ones in.
The point is you can’t stop these damaged ones from clicking. The only hope for your diff is new gears, otherwise you’re just chasing your tail. A whole diff from JRC is my suggestion. Make sure that one is shimmed well out of the gate and you should be much better off.
 
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