Notorious Closest TP motor compared to stock?

[PowerDubs]

As a point of reference, so I have an idea of what I am looking at- what is the most comparable TP motor to our stock one? Both in size and power.

Thanks.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

TP Power motors are confusing in that their first 2 digits of the name represent the can diameter, but the second 2 numbers mean almost nothing!

The factory BLX motor is 40x74 (with the cooling fins 41.7mm width.
5mm shaft. This part is important M4 mounting screws. (many TP Motors might have M3) Also worth noting the 4mm connectors.

TP Power TP4040 has 2 versions
V1 - 40x73
V2 - 39.6x77.3

From memory the V2 is a regular motor design where end caps can be removed. The other is a solid 1 piece motor and cannot be disassembled.

The 7D 2100kv is the closest option like stock. These motors come with no connectors so you would install 4mm like stock or if going with a castle esc then you can opt to run castle 6.5mm bullets.

There is also options when using the "build your own" motor to select M4 mounting screws and potentiall vented end caps. The vented caps are not ideal for anything other than street use. I'll warn you that the build your own can take some significant time. Many people get the M3 mounting and tap the hole for M4 as a "faster" solution.

This is an example of the vented end caps on a monster tp 5670 (56mm x 106mm)

 

[PowerDubs]

Thank you for that information.

I am toying around with options in my head.

I have a Savox servo capable of 8.4v for force and speed, as well as a tactic TR326 receiver instead of the TR325. It is also able to run 8.4v cheap easy upgrade.

So yesterday I was cruising around looking at different ESC options. Seems none will run that high BEC voltage.

I know the stock ESC is rated 150amp- and it appears the jump after that on motors is 180amp which is also above most esc easy to fit and play. The max6 is only 160a and I'm not sure how easy the max5 would be to fit and honestly for a basher may be overkill to run a 4070 anyway.

So- I am figuring the logical upgrade would be a castle standalone BEC (to run 8.4 to the servo / receiver) and a TP 4050 which is 150amp.

Any thoughts on the 3Y 2100 vs the 6D 1950?

I don't know what the cont/max power of the stock motor is to compare- but it looks like this would be a nice upgrade while still playing nice with the factory ESC.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

As a general statement the Y-windings tend to have a more linear power band versus the D-wind which has more punch in the low end(wye & delta are the real names)
D-winds are noted to pull more amps and have more torque also, however I personally have not tested 2 exact same motors with differing winding types to compare. All Castle motors are Y-wind for reference.

I believe the BLX 2050kv has plenty of power on 6s and runs cool compared to some other motors. What is the need/want to change motors if you are staying on 6s and the original ESC?

If you are looking for more power the best thing to do is move up to a larger motor size. The 4050 or 4060 may be a good option. The 4070 is over kill in my opinion and un-necessary added weight. On that note you will likely come across CM Series TP motors. They use some different magnets and wrappings to keep the motor intact at higher rpms. Again, this is added extra weight not needed.

 

[PowerDubs]

"What is the need/want to change motors if you are staying on 6s and the original ESC?"

Just f-in around. I don't mind overkill and chaos. I've hopped up everything I've ever owned for more power. Dirtbike, atv, motorcycles, cars- you name it. I love both the dragstrip and the dyno. As well as a few airport runways.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

"What is the need/want to change motors if you are staying on 6s and the original ESC?"

Just f-in around. I don't mind overkill and chaos. I've hopped up everything I've ever owned for more power. Dirtbike, atv, motorcycles, cars- you name it. I love both the dragstrip and the dyno. As well as a few airport runways.

I guess I am trying to understand if you want the original motor size and ESC, I assume this is not a high power rig.
I believe the BLX 2050kv has more in it than people realize...
Example:

Same here on making things fast. I'd love to get my hands on a open airport runway for my speed build...
I'm currently pricing out a build with the TP100 motor and setup to make a YZ125 electric

 

[PowerDubs]

D-winds are noted to pull more amps and have more torque also

Yea- the Y is listed as 151amp, the D is 192.

Both as listed as running on a 150a ESC, but I wonder if the Y would live longer.

https://www.tppowerusa.com/motor-selection-guide/18-cars

The 4060 and 4070 are all listed as 180amp esc required for what we need.

The reason I picked the 4050 is *because* it appears to be a plug and play, cheap, safe, faster upgrade.

If someone wants to take the next step it appears to be jump all in- max5, 4070, 8S batteries to make it work well, and again overkill for play.

 

[phildogg]

TP Power motors are confusing in that their first 2 digits of the name represent the can diameter, but the second 2 numbers mean almost nothing!

The factory BLX motor is 40x74 (with the cooling fins 41.7mm width.
5mm shaft. This part is important M4 mounting screws. (many TP Motors might have M3) Also worth noting the 4mm connectors.

TP Power TP4040 has 2 versions
V1 - 40x73
V2 - 39.6x77.3

From memory the V2 is a regular motor design where end caps can be removed. The other is a solid 1 piece motor and cannot be disassembled.

The 7D 2100kv is the closest option like stock. These motors come with no connectors so you would install 4mm like stock or if going with a castle esc then you can opt to run castle 6.5mm bullets.

There is also options when using the "build your own" motor to select M4 mounting screws and potentiall vented end caps. The vented caps are not ideal for anything other than street use. I'll warn you that the build your own can take some significant time. Many people get the M3 mounting and tap the hole for M4 as a "faster" solution.

This is an example of the vented end caps on a monster tp 5670 (56mm x 106mm)

View attachment 56068

I assume the second number in the motor size is the rotor length, i know neu motors use the rotor length in the motor size.

 

[PowerDubs]

BTW- this is just for play in my Notorious, not my Typhon.

The not was always on its back wheels or flipping over when turning- so I put it on a kraton chassis to tame it down in both regards without backing off my trigger finger.

So now it is actually too tame- a little more motor may bring a little more fun as well as accel/speed.

 

[phildogg]

BTW- this is just for play in my Notorious, not my Typhon.

The not was always on its back wheels or flipping over when turning- so I put it on a kraton chassis to tame it down in both regards without backing off my trigger finger.

So now it is actually too tame- a little more motor may bring a little more fun as well as accel/speed.

a 4050 would a good choice in the 2100kv, stays close to stock with more power and torque.

 

[PowerDubs]

My thoughts as well.. so order placed.

 

[Lovestricken]

Thank you for that information.

I am toying around with options in my head.

I have a Savox servo capable of 8.4v for force and speed, as well as a tactic TR326 receiver instead of the TR325. It is also able to run 8.4v cheap easy upgrade.

So yesterday I was cruising around looking at different ESC options. Seems none will run that high BEC voltage.

I know the stock ESC is rated 150amp- and it appears the jump after that on motors is 180amp which is also above most esc easy to fit and play. The max6 is only 160a and I'm not sure how easy the max5 would be to fit and honestly for a basher may be overkill to run a 4070 anyway.

So- I am figuring the logical upgrade would be a castle standalone BEC (to run 8.4 to the servo / receiver) and a TP 4050 which is 150amp.

Any thoughts on the 3Y 2100 vs the 6D 1950?

I don't know what the cont/max power of the stock motor is to compare- but it looks like this would be a nice upgrade while still playing nice with the factory ESC.

Just be careful with those castle bec. They are known to fail and take out the esc, receiver and servo with it.

 

[PowerDubs]

The WP 2? Link for reference and curiosity?

 

[DoNoHarm]

The WP 2? Link for reference and curiosity?

Not the wp2. He probably thought you were referring to the 10A standard. All WP ones and pros have been proven reliable.

 

[PowerDubs]

I was reading a little more last night. I learned about the Dynamite Fuze 160A ESC being a rebadged MAX6 but with an 8.4V capable BEC.

I probably would have been perfectly happy with the stock ESC and WP2 BEC- but using the Fuze is less clutter.

 

[DoNoHarm]

I was reading a little more last night. I learned about the Dynamite Fuze 160A ESC being a rebadged MAX6 but with an 8.4V capable BEC.

I probably would have been perfectly happy with the stock ESC and WP2 BEC- but using the Fuze is less clutter.

Lol it’s actually labeled in the original post to this thread

 

[PowerDubs]

Huh?

 

[DoNoHarm]

Huh?

Whoops my bad. I got thread jumbled. Thought this was on a different thread lol. Apologies for the confusion.

 

[PowerDubs]

Yea that other thread is where I learned about it. Surprised the Max6 gets mentioned pretty often- but nobody appears to talk about the Fuze.

 

[PowerDubs]

Anyone have any idea what the stock motor is for RPM and Watts?