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"What is the need/want to change motors if you are staying on 6s and the original ESC?"
Just f-in around. I don't mind overkill and chaos. I've hopped up everything I've ever owned for more power. Dirtbike, atv, motorcycles, cars- you name it. I love both the dragstrip and the dyno. As well as a few airport runways.
D-winds are noted to pull more amps and have more torque also
I assume the second number in the motor size is the rotor length, i know neu motors use the rotor length in the motor size.TP Power motors are confusing in that their first 2 digits of the name represent the can diameter, but the second 2 numbers mean almost nothing!
The factory BLX motor is 40x74 (with the cooling fins 41.7mm width.
5mm shaft. This part is important M4 mounting screws. (many TP Motors might have M3) Also worth noting the 4mm connectors.
TP Power TP4040 has 2 versions
V1 - 40x73
V2 - 39.6x77.3
From memory the V2 is a regular motor design where end caps can be removed. The other is a solid 1 piece motor and cannot be disassembled.
The 7D 2100kv is the closest option like stock. These motors come with no connectors so you would install 4mm like stock or if going with a castle esc then you can opt to run castle 6.5mm bullets.
There is also options when using the "build your own" motor to select M4 mounting screws and potentiall vented end caps. The vented caps are not ideal for anything other than street use. I'll warn you that the build your own can take some significant time. Many people get the M3 mounting and tap the hole for M4 as a "faster" solution.
This is an example of the vented end caps on a monster tp 5670 (56mm x 106mm)
View attachment 56068
a 4050 would a good choice in the 2100kv, stays close to stock with more power and torque.BTW- this is just for play in my Notorious, not my Typhon.
The not was always on its back wheels or flipping over when turning- so I put it on a kraton chassis to tame it down in both regards without backing off my trigger finger.
So now it is actually too tame- a little more motor may bring a little more fun as well as accel/speed.
Just be careful with those castle bec. They are known to fail and take out the esc, receiver and servo with it.Thank you for that information.
I am toying around with options in my head.
I have a Savox servo capable of 8.4v for force and speed, as well as a tactic TR326 receiver instead of the TR325. It is also able to run 8.4v cheap easy upgrade.
So yesterday I was cruising around looking at different ESC options. Seems none will run that high BEC voltage.
I know the stock ESC is rated 150amp- and it appears the jump after that on motors is 180amp which is also above most esc easy to fit and play. The max6 is only 160a and I'm not sure how easy the max5 would be to fit and honestly for a basher may be overkill to run a 4070 anyway.
So- I am figuring the logical upgrade would be a castle standalone BEC (to run 8.4 to the servo / receiver) and a TP 4050 which is 150amp.
Any thoughts on the 3Y 2100 vs the 6D 1950?
I don't know what the cont/max power of the stock motor is to compare- but it looks like this would be a nice upgrade while still playing nice with the factory ESC.
Not the wp2. He probably thought you were referring to the 10A standard. All WP ones and pros have been proven reliable.The WP 2? Link for reference and curiosity?
Lol it’s actually labeled in the original post to this thread
Whoops my bad. I got thread jumbled. Thought this was on a different thread lol. Apologies for the confusion.Huh?
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