Cnhl lipo 6s brown substance coming out of connector

DoubLRRLIFE!8887

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I smell burnt and thought it was the lipo about blow up turns out the cells are good but brown thick substance is coming out of connector it came with please help here some pics .
not even one pass just to run test.

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Camaroboy383

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Pic is blurry, hard to tell.. seems your cam focused on your hand.. lol..

Could be flux.. but, it shouldn't be getting hot enough to move flux again.. was it hot when you pulled the connector? That esc side pin fits tightly in the battery plug on that side?
 

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Ya probly didn't plug it in all the way an the anti-spark orangish-brown ring inside the qs8 melted.99% certain that's what happened,happened to me..probly a bunch of it in male connection on charger aslo
Hard to see ,but that ring is the anti-spark ..you need new connecter on pack now

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Yup,in your pic can see its melted...I hate qs8 plugs
 

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K-BASH

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I was able to clean all that out an still use connector,wouldn't advise on high powered setup.i see ya got mmmx8s so you should be fine if ya clean it all out,xlx2 could possibly get damaged with plug like this,restrictions,starving a xlx2 will damage it little bit at a time till it gos up in smoke,they require big wiring,minimal connecters,an very good sodoring connections or else
 

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QS8 Negative makes contact first. Then the Positive. So the Neg has has the Resistor connected in circuit before the Pos Bullet engages. For anti sparking. If that makes sense. In the pictire the Neg barrel/socket is higher. So it makes contact first. The Pos. barrel/socket is recessed more than the Neg for this reason. How I see it?
I always felt that negative should be the first to connect. Then Pos. Second, in perfect world. If you have the option.
 

DoubLRRLIFE!8887

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should I replace it? The connector ? Why is it coming out?

image.jpg


image.jpg

QS8 Negative makes contact first. Then the Positive. So the Neg has has the Resistor connected in circuit before the Pos Bullet engages. For anti sparking. If that makes sense. In the pictire the Neg barrel/socket is higher. So it makes contact first. The Pos. barrel/socket is recessed more than the Neg for this reason. How I see it?
I always felt that negative should be the first to connect. Then Pos. Second, in perfect world. If you have the option.
Look at the new pics .
 

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That can only be from Excessive flux paste during soldering Which causes corrosion. Flux is an acid. And if not used sparingly doesn't burn up during soldering like it should.
You say IT is "Coming Out". Not sure what you mean. Try using a swab and electrical contact spray. See what comes out of it. Flux usually cleans up easily enough. Otherwise it could just be arcing damage.
 

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That can only be from Excessive flux paste during soldering Which causes corrosion. Flux is an acid. And if not used sparingly doesn't burn up during soldering like it should.
You say IT is "Coming Out". Not sure what you mean. Try using a swab and electrical contact spray. See what comes out of it. Flux usually cleans up easily enough. Otherwise it could just be arcing damage.

Be Careful what you use to "scrub" that gunk out... If it's a brillo pad or some other metal brush...
You can cause a short!! And FIRE..
If you accidentally touch both female connectors.
 

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+1

Why I said to use a Ear cotton Swab, ( non metallic) and an electrical contact spray onto the Swab only. Then wipe out the barrels separately. And carefully.
I periodically clean out my lipo connectors. The get all trashed. If they don't clean up well and are just arced out. I replace the connectors. They are consumable items IMHO. Never continue to use a questionable connector.
Bad connectors can cause fires when bashing or speed running. Been there. One bad connector can ruin a whole rig and otherwise good Lipo.
Have spares on hand. I buy them in bulk.
FWIW, I Never solder on connectors or clean my Lipo connectors when they are Fully Charged. For safety. Best if they are discharged down to 3.4v/cell. At least with the 6s packs. High voltage can arc very easily. Be careful.
 
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Camaroboy383

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should I replace it? The connector ? Why is it coming out?

View attachment 270925

View attachment 270926

Look at the new pics .


Heat is the only thing that can make that happen... Now that I see it I 100% agree with @K-BASH bash on this.. it's definitely that reddish, brownish, burgundy ish ring that's in the connector...

So this begs the other question I had asked, was it hot when you unplugged it?..

But also another question is raised.. are you sure it was not like that when you received the battery?

I've seen this happen more than a few times on these qs8's when the terminals are over heated right from the solder job... I've seen a couple so damn bad it was pissing out the back, and you couldn't get the cap to clip on...

Weird they would make them with such low glass transition material, especially needing to have 8 gauge wire soldered to them..

Need one hell of a hot iron to get that to take quick enough to get out without meltage..
 

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I'm interested in hearing what if any alternatives you prefer. On my high power stuff I just use raw 8mm connectors but might try qs10 for my latest "big" build idk.
I only use ec8....little longer than qs8...lighter,huge sodor pocket that will take 6awg wiring,cheaper,can make 90 degree motor leads with them..I've lost 2 xlx2s from bad crashs where pack flew outa car an instead of disconnecting it yanked the leads off esc,TWICE..bad way to loose a 250$ esc..qs8s cost me 2 xlx2s..then the anti spark melting BS..they are so hard to connect an disconnect if new..here's qs8,a 8awg wire an 8mm bullet I cut off a cnhl pack an a ec8..I throw the blue plastic pieces in the trash

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Screenshot_20230118-021056_Amazon Shopping.jpg

Heat is the only thing that can make that happen... Now that I see it I 100% agree with @K-BASH bash on this.. it's definitely that reddish, brownish, burgundy ish ring that's in the connector...

So this begs the other question I had asked, was it hot when you unplugged it?..

But also another question is raised.. are you sure it was not like that when you received the battery?

I've seen this happen more than a few times on these qs8's when the terminals are over heated right from the solder job... I've seen a couple so damn bad it was pissing out the back, and you couldn't get the cap to clip on...

Weird they would make them with such low glass transition material, especially needing to have 8 gauge wire soldered to them..

Need one hell of a hot iron to get that to take quick enough to get out without meltage..
When mine melted i was charging an didn't plug it all the way in intentionally because pulling them back apart id rip my damn leads out my charger when they came apart.HE-MAN-HURCULES would have a hell of a time pulling apart 2 brand new qs8s.
 
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K-BASH

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I bet a trillion dollars his charger leads are the short 8mm bullets like 2nd pic up☝️....those short 8mm bullets don't reach very far into a qs8,just about to that anti-spark spot,weak connection an it gets hot,or only other thing that'll cause this only plugging qs8s half way in so ya can pull um apart easily after charged,like I did.,either way a weak connection caused this while chargeing
 
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That can only be from Excessive flux paste during soldering Which causes corrosion. Flux is an acid. And if not used sparingly doesn't burn up during soldering like it should.

+1

Why I said to use a Ear cotton Swab, ( non metallic) and an electrical contact spray onto the Swab only. Then wipe out the barrels separately. And carefully.
I periodically clean out my lipo connectors. The get all trashed. If they don't clean up well and are just arced out. I replace the connectors. They are consumable items ...
FWIW, I Never solder on connectors or clean my Lipo connectors when they are Fully Charged. For safety. Best if they are discharged down to 3.4v/cell. At least with the 6s packs. High voltage can arc very easily. Be careful.
There's always more to learn! I didn't realize that rosin flux was acidic, and should maybe be removed after soldering. I have removed rosin flux with rubbing alcohol, like if you get it on your fingers, etc. I could try that on a Q-tip, after soldering.

Have you found that anti-spark connectors last longer? I haven't used any like that before, but may change to XT-90S, the anti-spark version. Hoping the feature could help avoid connector damage on 6S.

I have brought battery voltages down before soldering them, for safety. They could certainly still short, but there's a lot less stored energy at 3.5V or whatever, vs 4.2V. I was going to do that again before the connector change.

Has anyone tried a bit of lubricant on contacts, to make them easier to connect/disconnect? It seems like a dry Teflon lubricant might be OK, and would avoid attracting grit and dust (unlike using something wet, like oil). Dielectric grease is OK for electrical items, but seems like it would attract grit, which is bad. But I wonder about putting a bit of Teflon lube on a Q-tip, and wiping it on the inside of the female connectors, for instance. Or I've seen mention of squeezing the male contacts together slightly, to make them not grab quite as hard.
 

DoubLRRLIFE!8887

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There's always more to learn! I didn't realize that rosin flux was acidic, and should maybe be removed after soldering. I have removed rosin flux with rubbing alcohol, like if you get it on your fingers, etc. I could try that on a Q-tip, after soldering.

Have you found that anti-spark connectors last longer? I haven't used any like that before, but may change to XT-90S, the anti-spark version. Hoping the feature could help avoid connector damage on 6S.

I have brought battery voltages down before soldering them, for safety. They could certainly still short, but there's a lot less stored energy at 3.5V or whatever, vs 4.2V. I was going to do that again before the connector change.

Has anyone tried a bit of lubricant on contacts, to make them easier to connect/disconnect? It seems like a dry Teflon lubricant might be OK, and would avoid attracting grit and dust (unlike using something wet, like oil). Dielectric grease is OK for electrical items, but seems like it would attract grit, which is bad. But I wonder about putting a bit of Teflon lube on a Q-tip, and wiping it on the inside of the female connectors, for instance. Or I've seen mention of squeezing the male contacts together slightly, to make them not grab quite as hard.
This happened last night while testing the new build the battery has been charged once and I’ve been using to set parameters on the esc and rx the started to smell like burnt so I got scare and threw the battery outside on a bucket of dirt lol
I bet a trillion dollars his charger leads are the short 8mm bullets like 2nd pic up☝️....those short 8mm bullets don't reach very far into a qs8,just about to that anti-spark spot,weak connection an it gets hot,or only other thing that'll cause this only plugging qs8s half way in so ya can pull um apart easily after charged,like I did.,either way a weak connection caused this while chargeing
What should I switch to? For 8s ? I got as150
Will do . Thanks
Heat is the only thing that can make that happen... Now that I see it I 100% agree with @K-BASH bash on this.. it's definitely that reddish, brownish, burgundy ish ring that's in the connector...

So this begs the other question I had asked, was it hot when you unplugged it?..

But also another question is raised.. are you sure it was not like that when you received the battery?

I've seen this happen more than a few times on these qs8's when the terminals are over heated right from the solder job... I've seen a couple so damn bad it was pissing out the back, and you couldn't get the cap to clip on...

Weird they would make them with such low glass transition material, especially needing to have 8 gauge wire soldered to them..

Need one hell of a hot iron to get that to take quick enough to get out without meltage..
no it wasn’t hot that stuff just smell burnt
Yes what should I replace with for my 8s set up?
 
Last edited:

K-BASH

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This happened last night while testing the new build the battery has been charged once and I’ve been using to set parameters on the esc and rx the started to smell like burnt so I got scare and threw the battery outside on a bucket of dirt lol

What should I switch to? For 8s ? I got as150
Will do . Thanks

no it wasn’t hot that stuff just smell burnt
Yes what should I replace with for my 8s set up?
Any 8mm connectors you choose...I prefer ec8,I've pulled over 600a without any issues.use ec8 if your not scard of the spark an replacing connectors after they get arced up from the sparks..the big 8s spark-pop gets my blood flowing for a full send🤣😅.could put a qs8 on eac an ec8 on packs then ya wouldn't have the spark.you had a bad connection on that qs8.any loose wire,sodor joint,restrictions in wiring,an that's what will happen, it'll get smokin hot
 

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There's always more to learn! I didn't realize that rosin flux was acidic, and should maybe be removed after soldering. I have removed rosin flux with rubbing alcohol, like if you get it on your fingers, etc. I could try that on a Q-tip, after soldering.

Have you found that anti-spark connectors last longer? I haven't used any like that before, but may change to XT-90S, the anti-spark version. Hoping the feature could help avoid connector damage on 6S.

I have brought battery voltages down before soldering them, for safety. They could certainly still short, but there's a lot less stored energy at 3.5V or whatever, vs 4.2V. I was going to do that again before the connector change.

Has anyone tried a bit of lubricant on contacts, to make them easier to connect/disconnect? It seems like a dry Teflon lubricant might be OK, and would avoid attracting grit and dust (unlike using something wet, like oil). Dielectric grease is OK for electrical items, but seems like it would attract grit, which is bad. But I wonder about putting a bit of Teflon lube on a Q-tip, and wiping it on the inside of the female connectors, for instance. Or I've seen mention of squeezing the male contacts together slightly, to make them not grab quite as hard.
The anti-spark arrestor Resistor(s), always on the Neg side, do fail at some point, Yes.
I experimented with using a Silicone specific Dielectric Grease. Don't do it! Be warned.:giggle: Not for High Volt High Amped connectors.(n) I use dielectric grease only on very low volt, low amp load connections. And very Sparingly. Serves a purpose, just not good for Lipo pack connectors. Also don't use Dielectric grease on a Sensor lead/ pinouts. Messes with the Low power freq. sensor signals. Causes the the connector to foul up.. Attracts dirt, grit. This can even wear out the barrels/ bullets. Again, been there. I even saw arcing with this grease.
Just keep the connectors clean and dry, with Elect. Contact spray.
 
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