Kraton Cogging

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Mike13

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I have kraton 6s v4 stock
I cleaned out diffs
Put in new fluid
60k front
300k center
20k rear
I also changed the pinion gear to the one 15t
Why would I get cogging with just a 15t
When I seen others with a 16t on stock and doing fine
 
May be set too tight? The only thing I can think since it's the only thing you changed other than fluids...
 
May be set too tight? The only thing I can think since it's the only thing you changed other than fluids...
What mean set to tight
The mesh i can hear the tic tok when i play with the wheel
May be set too tight? The only thing I can think since it's the only thing you changed other than fluids...
Can it be to loose
 
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I don't know what tires you have ??
but i also have it when i put my badlands 2.8 on my typhon.
then he also stutters a little while driving away ?

But isn't it just too thick oil?
 
I don't know what tires you have ??
but i also have it when i put my badlands 2.8 on my typhon.
then he also stutters a little while driving away ?

But isn't it just too thick oil?
I thought that too but I've heard of people putting 70k in their front diffs without issue and the diffs shouldn't impede the motor from spinning freely or causing undue strain since the diffs are not the thing spinning during normal operation. Worst case is your diffs don't turn so you'd effectively have a solid axle vehicle.
What mean set to tight
The mesh i can hear the tic tok when i play with the wheel

Can it be to loose
Cogging is usually caused by something stressing the system like bad bearings (in the motor or car), tight mesh between gears (including the diff input gears), overheating or a bad esc...I'm sure there are other reason but this is my short list of things check.

EDIT: it is also normal for a sensor less motor to do a small amount of cogging when first starting up...how bad is the cogging for you?
 
I don't know what tires you have ??
but i also have it when i put my badlands 2.8 on my typhon.
then he also stutters a little while driving away ?

But isn't it just too thick oil?
I have the stock tires
If i throttle the truck slowly it takes off and no bad sounds but when hit brake or try to wheelie it is cogging ,
I thought that too but I've heard of people putting 70k in their front diffs without issue and the diffs shouldn't impede the motor from spinning freely or causing undue strain since the diffs are not the thing spinning during normal operation. Worst case is your diffs don't turn so you'd effectively have a solid axle vehicle.

Cogging is usually caused by something stressing the system like bad bearings (in the motor or car), tight mesh between gears (including the diff input gears), overheating or a bad esc...I'm sure there are other reason but this is my short list of things check.

EDIT: it is also normal for a sensor less motor to do a small amount of cogging when first starting up...how bad is the cogging for you?
I have brand new bearings , new oil
I even think my mesh is good i can hear the tic tok
 
Diff problem? Cogging is what happens with sensorless when you take off from a standstill, should have nothing to do with braking or wheelies... I think you'll have to check the diffs again (at least the ring and pinion). Drive cups on the f/r diffs tight?
 
Diff problem? Cogging is what happens with sensorless when you take off from a standstill, should have nothing to do with braking or wheelies... I think you'll have to check the diffs again (at least the ring and pinion). Drive cups on the f/r diffs tight?
Thats what i mean by wheelies it won't wheelie on take off it coggs
 
Oh I get it. That shouldn't be happening. Check the power wiring, remove the pinion and check if everything rolls smoothly?
 
I have the stock tires
If i throttle the truck slowly it takes off and no bad sounds but when hit brake or try to wheelie it is cogging ,

I have brand new bearings , new oil
I even think my mesh is good i can hear the tic tok
If it's cogging just as you take off but not too badly I'd say that's just what happens with sensorless motors but if it is cogging while at full throttle you have something in the system causing extraneous stress on the motor...
Thats what i mean by wheelies it won't wheelie on take off it coggs
I forgot to mention, what type of battery connector are you using? I had cogging on my senton when I was running deans connectors (and excessive heat) until I switched to xt90's...
 
I have kraton 6s v4 stock
I cleaned out diffs
Put in new fluid
60k front
300k center
20k rear
I also changed the pinion gear to the one 15t
Why would I get cogging with just a 15t
When I seen others with a 16t on stock and doing fine
mine was doing that for a few runs then the motor wire came off had to resolder it fine now.
 
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