Typhon Confused!!

[Woodentop]

Hey guys ok so I'm amassing upgraded parts to build something I want from scratch, I've touched on this in other threads but I'm hoping for some advice.

After going out today with my noto and my talion the noto just wanted to cock its back leg up all the time and was as squirrely as s##t the talion on the other hand was amazing, planted, nimble, so easy to control it was an absolute blast.

My original idea was a truckified typhon but I kept changing my mind, so I've got m2c chassis (swb) m2c towers (kraton/noto) all other parts I have are interchangeable.

I would like the swb truck look with buggy sized wheels and low like the talion but wide like the talion as well a max 6 combo will power it, this is where I need help.

If i use the swb chassis and the lower talion towers and shocks would this give me something I'm after with maybe a c10 body and some aggressive looking wheels, maybe a wide stance swb low truck if you will? Has anybody done something similar?
Help appreciated.

 

[SrC]

Lower profile tires on the SWB Noto. will keep it at bay better. Play with your gearing and diff oil better. That's what I noticed at least. I would play with different diameter tire sizes also. I tried Duratrax X-Con Truggy pins for instance. (zero offset) I like them the best on my Noto. Cant say the "look is best". But dam, it drives incredible. I don't care much about looks. I want it to be drivable. I don't focus on the looks of a shelf queen with poor handling that I lose interest in and just collects dust looking nice while it does.
Widening the stance(width of a SWB) will make it even more squirrely. You don't want the width to be more than its wheelbase. That would be such a handful to drive. And look silly while your doing it.
Looks like your trying to make your Noto. what it is not. ?‍ Talion is a different animal, as you noticed.
Talion and Noto are meant to drive different. The Noto. is not as forgiving when it comes to controlling it. Better driving skills are much needed. Or just convert it to a Kraton LWB chassis. But you already got the SWB M2C chassis......The SWB affords it better big air gyration control. You can Frankenstien it if you want. A lot do this. I understand you are looking for a "unique special look" to your build, but that doesn't necessarily translate to a better driving rig.
Power plant is another subject.
Others will chime in with better direction.

 

[Woodentop]

The talion blew me away yesterday how it drives, the noto is always the first in the car when out for a bash, but I know the 6s backflips are not what I want ,they're to big, I suppose with the time and money that goes into a build I want to get it right, as i already have the spiral diffs I would need to change the spur to adjust the gearing on the buggy wheels, is that right? I have the max 6 but recognise that maybe a 4092 would be better suited, I may keep the kraton/noto towers and put on the Mojave arms so it's not as wide, like you say I want it to be really nice to drive more than anything else really.
I've tried numerous diff oil combinations and pinion sizes in the noto and although it's a blast it points at the sky constantly that's the main reason i want something a little more planted but still with swb chassis.
Possibly asking to much ?‍
Thanks for the reply, much appreciated ?

 

[SrC]

The way I see it, is that the Noto. is closer to a 1/8 Buggy chassis length. It would make sense to drop to a buggy size wheel and get more stability. You can always up your pinion size before changing out your spur. Depends how you want to drive and resulting temps. I would invest in a complete set of pinions. That's what I have.

 

[Woodentop]

I have most pinions but I'll fill in the gaps, I think I'll use the Patrts i have with Mojave arms and maybe something like duratrax lockups but not pre-assembled so I can tape them etc, I've been doin my research all day and I know what I want but I don't think I explain it well.

Temps are something I don't want to worry about maybe 20t with max 6 combo but with ally upgrades it should balance out, I'll see I suppose, rig has to drive nice, that's a given, want to be able to throw it around without it wanting to roll around all over the place, again many thanks @SrC big help ?

 

[GRC]

Not sure exactly what you mean by "the noto just wanted to cock its back leg up all the time" but sounds like the rear shocks may be too stiff. The Talion will have more stability because of the longer wheelbase. The larger Notorious wheels and shorter wheelbase will make it less stable than the Talion, but it makes backflips easier, which is kind of the whole idea with the Notorious/Outcast.

 

[Woodentop]

Not sure exactly what you mean by "the noto just wanted to cock its back leg up all the time" but sounds like the rear shocks may be too stiff. The Talion will have more stability because of the longer wheelbase. The larger Notorious wheels and shorter wheelbase will make it less stable than the Talion, but it makes backflips easier, which is kind of the whole idea with the Notorious/Outcast.

I went out again yesterday and once I set the d/r correctly it didnt lift up on one corner when turning, I get what the oc/noto is about and love it but just want something on the swb chassis a bit more stable, on a side note it's coming along nicely, servo I will change out I think more parts are incoming, stock levels in the UK are horrendous atm ?

 

[SrC]

Not sure exactly what you mean by "the noto just wanted to cock its back leg up all the time" but sounds like the rear shocks may be too stiff. The Talion will have more stability because of the longer wheelbase. The larger Notorious wheels and shorter wheelbase will make it less stable than the Talion, but it makes backflips easier, which is kind of the whole idea with the Notorious/Outcast.

^^^ Standing Backflips and wheelies gets tired real fast. Overloading the diffs. Cntr. Diff. bleeding power from the rear going to the front (Not best scenario). Needing diff rebuilds constantly IMHO.
500k or higher in the center diff is a start for most guys. The SWB Noto/OC is really meant for big air gyration control.( front and back flips in the air, not on the ground) But overall, SWB is harder to control. And, meant that way IMHO. My TeknoMT the same. I would not change it much. I don't want to make one rig handle like another because it might be easier to drive. Each rig has its own personality by design. The Noto. responds real well consistently with much practice. Full Heavy TH finger is not the way to drive the Noto. IMHO. You'll be cartwheeling all over the place. Just my spin.

Edit: if it seems hard to drive your Not/OC, try turning down the Punch level at the ESC. Try running 4S. I do these.
Guys running 8S in a 1/8 SWB is ludicrous. Maybe its bragging rights or something.... a thing... I think that's silly BTW

 

[SrC]

I went out again yesterday and once I set the d/r correctly it didnt lift up on one corner when turning, I get what the oc/noto is about and love it but just want something on the swb chassis a bit more stable, on a side note it's coming along nicely, servo I will change out I think more parts are incoming, stock levels in the UK are horrendous atm ?

Try going with Truggy pins but zero offset. I have both 1/2" and Zero offsets of the Duratrax x-Cons. Zero offset makes it drive more like a Track rig. more stable. Each of us drive differently than the next guy. So to a point its subjective. But do consider experimenting with tires more. (500k at center)

 

[Woodentop]

I have some vtec kalahari knocking around somewhere, I'll put them on and try it, I'm running a 15t with 300k CD I want to build something different so as not to end up with 2 noto/oc ? ?