Corally Kronos XP - Fixing A Bloody Mess

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Megasty

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Arrma RC's
  1. BigRock
  2. Kraton 8S
  3. Kraton 6s
  4. Kraton EXB
  5. Mojave
  6. Mojave EXB
  7. Nero
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  11. Senton 6s
  12. Talion
So Corally tried to tempt the beast that is Arrma & crapped out a turd. It's fast as all hell. 40t/13t diffs & 46t/13t stock gearing is an easy 60 OoB if it doesn't burn alive first :ROFLMAO: That type of gearing can torture any system, even the max8 combo it comes with - a beautiful system, one of the best I've seen in a RTR. My main gripe with this thing is that it has the WEAKEST metal chassis I've ever seen, period. Seriously, I wish I was joking. The chassis will bow as soon as you put a battery in it :oops: Forget running it stock, you'll just end up with a hot pretzel :ROFLMAO: So how do you fix something like this. Anything less than divine intervention will end in tears . . .

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I'm not going to say this was a PITA to fix, it just took a lot out of me & I was getting tired of working on it half-way though when I started on the T2T brace. I obviously got the bumper, wing mount/wheelie bar, fans, & body out the way first so I could figure out the bracing w/o having that lag work on the back burner.
 
This brace has to be one of the most involved single pieces I undergoed in a long time. It had to eliminate all chassis flex, incorporate the shock towers so they wouldn't bend too fast, & attach to the rear diff in multiple places so it simply wouldn't grenade ripping away from the shock tower.

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One of the more complicated bits is that the diff L-tab where the rear brace is mounted to is actually reinforced with another L-tab that bolts to the lower shock tower. The diff L-tab wiggled w/o the reinforcement & that wiggle was completely eliminated with it. Besides the purple body mounts I put on since the stock mounts ended up too short, I had to use an EXB rear brace :love::LOL: I'm not giving Corally any incentive here. They can fix their own mess or keep the turd as is. I'm simply showing that it can be done . . . in 6 hours to boot :ROFLMAO:
 
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As a beginner I got sucked into buying one of these when the Kraton I wanted was out of stock. Oh man what a bummer. Break after break and my other truck was holding up fine. I decided not to put anymore time or money into it. Stripped it all down to use what I can out of it and forget about what it cost. Its so disappointing I can't even look at it!
 
And this was supposed to be the Arrma killer ? Serves them right for ripping of the look and the names. And before someone flips their sh!t, when I say "look" I mean the body. I don't need a lesson on how the chassis layout is different including the worst chassis braces ever on a 6S truck.
 
And this was supposed to be the Arrma killer ? Serves them right for ripping of the look and the names. And before someone flips their sh!t, when I say "look" I mean the body. I don't need a lesson on how the chassis layout is different including the worst chassis braces ever on a 6S truck.
You can't call that thing a brace. It's a really flexible piece of composite with a huge hole in the middle of it. It's like they wanted it to break. Then there's the tiny battery tray. My 5200mah Ovonics 6s pack would barely fit, & it's the smallest 6s I have. The electrics are the only thing they have over Arrma. They are incredible if you can keep them cool. The game changer fans easily does it, but the combo can drain the 5200mah really fast :(
 
My best guess at strengthening the chassis would be to get a 3mm or 4mm plate of carbon fiber and cut out a part to go on the bottom of the chassis. Then drill and counter sink the holes to align with the factory chassis. (this will require longer screws)
 
My best guess at strengthening the chassis would be to get a 3mm or 4mm plate of carbon fiber and cut out a part to go on the bottom of the chassis. Then drill and counter sink the holes to align with the factory chassis. (this will require longer screws)
If bracing it was hopeless, I would get a 4mm 7075 plate & cut my own, filling in the narrow part in the rear. The chassis isn't even 5" wide so the plate would be relatively inexpensive & much easier to deal with than CF.
 
Good stuff and a clean brace. How much thinner is that chassis compared to a stock arrma??
It's not thinner, it just has more weak points. The Kraton chassis has one main weak point right at the rear diff where it's the slimmest. This thing has weak points throughout the area between the center diff & rear diff due to design & really poor bracing. All flat plate truggies share the same weak point at the front diff area but the front brace on this one is beyond atrocious. It ties into the front steering plate which is plastic so it's too much to break in one spot. A proper brace should triangulate with the shock tower & not even have to touch the diff. It would also help if the steering plate was braced into the shock tower but it's mostly unnecessary if the main brace does its job. Then you have a very strong T2T brace to complete the triangulation. It's a form of checks & balances that keep the forces at play moving so they can't build up in one area, wreck your bulkheads, & bend the chassis.
 
They're both done for now. Hopefully they can stay bash ready long enough to sniff out any other problems

 
This how Corally sell the Kronos from the beginning :
" If you're looking for the toughest, roughest and baddest machine on the planet, get the Kronos monster truck in your hands! (but only keep it in your hands, don't use it!) With up to 6S LiPo power and a 2050KV motor, you can experience the unbelievably fast Kronos super monster truck! (indeed, with the same gearing than the buggy it can be fast, but the electronic get too hot with this gearing) It's ideal for any place with dirt, mud, jumps and more - anywhere you can get massive air and colossally fast speeds! "

So, the toughest...Here are the upgrades you need, and not sure it will be THE TOUGHEST ON THE PLANET :ROFLMAO:

kronos service pack .JPG


New a-arms, new braces, new steering plate, new wing mount, new wing "washer", new diff. outdrives (the stock ones are made with too soft metal), new steering turnbuckle. To get this "service pack" you will have to pay something like 50$ (without shipping cost) with a proof of purchase of the kronos. The "normal" price of this pack is arround 200$.

There is an other service pack you can get for free :
kronos service pack 1 .JPG

THe price of this pack is 50$, but free (without shipping cost) with a proof of purchase. Note that there isn"t all the upgrades for most of the weak parts in this pack.

They will do nothing if you bend your chassis and badely bend a dog bone or anything else because the stock rear center brace is made with soft caramel plastic.

Imho the best upgrade you can do for the Kronos is this :
KRATON_EXB_Black.jpg
 
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This how Corally sell the Kronos from the beginning :
" If you're looking for the toughest, roughest and baddest machine on the planet, get the Kronos monster truck in your hands! (but only keep it in your hands, don't use it!) With up to 6S LiPo power and a 2050KV motor, you can experience the unbelievably fast Kronos super monster truck! (indeed, with the same gearing than the buggy it can be fast, but the electronic get too hot with this gearing) It's ideal for any place with dirt, mud, jumps and more - anywhere you can get massive air and colossally fast speeds! "

So, the toughest...Here are the upgrades you need, and not sure it will be THE TOUGHEST ON THE PLANET :ROFLMAO:

View attachment 101988

New a-arms, new braces, new steering plate, new wing mount, new wing "washer", new diff. outdrives (the stock ones are made with too soft metal), new steering turnbuckle. To get this "service pack" you will have to pay something like 50$ (without shipping cost) with a proof of purchase of the kronos. The "normal" price of this pack is arround 200$.

There is an other service pack you can get for free :
View attachment 101989
THe price of this pack is 50$, but free (without shipping cost) with a proof of purchase. Note that there isn"t all the upgrades for most of the weak parts in this pack.

They will do nothing if you bend your chassis and badely bend a dog bone or anything else because the stock rear center brace is made with soft caramel plastic.

Imho the best upgrade you can do for the Kronos is this :
View attachment 101999
THE TOUGHEST ON THE PLANET :ROFLMAO: They must of been munching on mystery meat :ROFLMAO::eek::ROFLMAO: Right now my EXB is alone at the apex of tough 6s 1/8 scales. My MT410 is a close 2nd but I can't stand the thing on 6s. At least I can drive the Corallys on 6s but they need a round trip to hell & back b4 they can learn what it means to be TOUGH
 
? yeah man they sound pretty terrible. Maybe they’ll nail it the second time around.
 
The upgrade parts are cute & all, but you can't fix what you don't understand. The arms will cause more problems since they switched them to a horrible fiber composite that will simple snap instead of bend. The wing mount is thicker but still attaches with 4 pitiful screws that will rip out again. The insert piece for the top of the mount would fix that if it bolted ONLY into the shock tower & not the body mounts. The steering plate was never a problem & they can keep the damn brace, it's useless no matter how thick it is. I don't mind the drivetrain stuff, but you CAN take the entire suspension from a Kraton & bolt it to this thing :love: But that would only make you want to go buy an EXB all the more :ROFLMAO: RPM arms will work too if you just want to use the Arrma hubs & driveshafts. That also opens the door for HR hub upgrades :love: It's only worth it cause of the $200 max8 combo it comes stock with, otherwise it would be total junk. I know these cars have the same setup, but this is atrocious. I don't mind since I have a way out of buying more BS parts for a BS car, but if I was Arrma, I would be furious.
 
The wing mount is thicker but still attaches with 4 pitiful screws that will rip out again. The insert piece for the top of the mount would fix that if it bolted ONLY into the shock tower & not the body mounts.

There is a new part for the wing mount, which is bloted with the two rear side braces nuts :
kronos service pack _ wing mouth .jpg


The steering plate was never a problem & they can keep the damn brace, it's useless no matter how thick it is.

Many broke the front tower brace and then, without this brace, the steering plate broke.
 
There is a new part for the wing mount, which is bloted with the two rear side braces nuts :
View attachment 102161



Many broke the front tower brace and then, without this brace, the steering plate broke.
That's what I mean by "insert piece" but it's not going to do much good when it bolts through the tower into the brace/body mounts. It'll help a bit on the Kronos but the Dementor will easily rip out & take the body mounts with it. It needs a 3rd set of holes to bolt straight into the tower. It does look like it has 3 holes so I hope that's what it's for. But I'm in the state & shipping kills any kind of hope on this set. It's much easier for me to make stuff that won't break to begin with. I know that's not an option for most but I still had to do that for the EXB wing mount. It only lasted 3 runs just like the prior mounts :ROFLMAO: As for the steering plate, the chassis would be a bowl by the time the brace broke so it really doesn't matter. I wouldn't replace it with another plastic one anyway.
 
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