Outcast couple questions and thoughts

[helizrnew2me]

hi, just got the new arrma outcast .after making some adapters for my lipos i proceed to test the functions .

first thing comes to mind is reverse has alot more power then forward (holding it in my hand while testing ,it nearly flew out my grip when i blipped reverse)

do i need to do all the throttle settings and limits and all that?tx programming and the like?


couple thoughts on this "new" better lipo tray setup. what a pain in the b*tt. half my lipos arent going to fit .
sure seems like limited space compared to my kraton i had last year(v2) .
this over the top strap,while it might be fine for lipos with side exit wires some of mine exit out the center of the lipo ,this seems like more a pain then a improvement ?
i don't remember having such a hard time with lipos in the kraton .

i guess i`ll get it figured out but i am going to be down a couple sets of lipos due to this limited amount of space .

i dual stack 3s lipos for reference .

so why does reverse have more power then forward?

thanks . i`ll get there ,again don't remember going thru this with kraton.

 

[slick2500]

I have hard case lipos with removable leads trust me I feel your pain on the battery tray.

Check your motor wires and make sure that they are connected right. Check your transmitter and make sure that your TH switch is set to N and not R, then re calibrate your transmitter.

 

[Jerry-rigged]

If Slick's advice does not work, then swap any two motor leads, and flip that N/R switch on the TX. More power in reverse is often a sign that the ESC has forward / reverse mixed up. But if the truck is actually going forward when you squeeze the trigger, then you need to swap the wires to reverse the motor. The test (before the wire swap) - run the truck forward, then go full brakes. Did you get brakes, or instant reverse? now try the same from reverse - go full forward. Did you get brakes, or instant forward?

The 'normal' for most ESC is Full power forward -> Brakes -> (pause) -> half power Reverse, or Half power reverse -> (no pause) -> Full power Forward.

 

[helizrnew2me]

I have hard case lipos with removable leads trust me I feel your pain on the battery tray.

Check your motor wires and make sure that they are connected right. Check your transmitter and make sure that your TH switch is set to N and not R, then re calibrate your transmitter.

the throttle switch is set to R but that is how it is shown in the manual .

i went down and did the throttle calibration last night ,seems better but only a road test can really tell . i been sick for a solid week now and just starting to recover .
need to adjust the toe on one side too ,its out too far .easy fix though .

If Slick's advice does not work, then swap any two motor leads, and flip that N/R switch on the TX. More power in reverse is often a sign that the ESC has forward / reverse mixed up. But if the truck is actually going forward when you squeeze the trigger, then you need to swap the wires to reverse the motor. The test (before the wire swap) - run the truck forward, then go full brakes. Did you get brakes, or instant reverse? now try the same from reverse - go full forward. Did you get brakes, or instant forward?

The 'normal' for most ESC is Full power forward -> Brakes -> (pause) -> half power Reverse, or Half power reverse -> (no pause) -> Full power Forward.

i will try this ,thanks. i set the esc last night too .i have a hobbywing card so its easy .bumped the punch up to 6 .everything else was good to go .

 

[slick2500]

You know I looked at mine and it was set to R from the factory too.

 

[helizrnew2me]

everythings good to go ,just an update .

 

[vitamindimo]

FYI I had the same problem - twice as fast going reverse as forwards on my 2018 Outcast. I did the Throttle Setup procedure on page 27 of the manual and now it looks to be correct - forward is 2x as fast as reverse. Now the car is out of hand fast - dropped my punch from 9 to 4 and it's still touchy on the wheelies.