Kraton Crunch time 5s or 6s

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three of these babies on the way!!!
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So I am running the 5s lipo's with 15t pinion on a 4274 1800kv sensored hobbywing motor. Temps still get up there pretty quickly, does that sound about right?
I put on a 13t pinion tonight but won't be able to run till this weekend
 
What did you use to read the temp and what was the temp ?What tires, what terrain ?

My 5s is the stock motor, 2050KV I think, 14 tooth and Badlands 3.8 tires. Temp tops around 140. May see 160 once in a while. Always off-road in sandy short grass. I never get close to 180. Badlands may be like having a 12 tooth pinion If I'm running a 14 tooth. due to their smaller diameter. When compared to stock tires.
Try the 12 tooth first.
Make sure your gear mesh is loose. Turn down the punch a little, mess with motor timing, make sure you got good connectors and solder.

sounds like you have a racing motor and ESC.... but that should not matter. Mess with the ESC settings. A racing truggy could be lighter than a Kraton. Maybe look at the timing.. I think you can run in sensorless mode... try that. . idk. Keep us posted.

You should be able to run decent temps on 5S with that low KV motor. Maybe it wants more gear ? Bottom line.... It takes some trial and error. It could just be that sensored timing ??? That's something most bash vehicles don't have.
 
Last edited:
Vanning said:
What did you use to read the temp and what was the temp ?What tires, what terrain ?

My 5s is the stock motor, 2050KV I think, 14 tooth and Badlands 3.8 tires. Temp tops around 140. May see 160 once in a while. Always off-road in sandy short grass. I never get close to 180. Badlands may be like having a 12 tooth pinion If I'm running a 14 tooth. due to their smaller diameter. When compared to stock tires.
Try the 12 tooth first.
Make sure your gear mesh is loose. Turn down the punch a little, mess with motor timing, make sure you got good connectors and solder.

sounds like you have a racing motor and ESC.... but that should not matter. Mess with the ESC settings. A racing truggy could be lighter than a Kraton. Maybe look at the timing.. I think you can run in sensorless mode... try that. . idk. Keep us posted.

You should be able to run decent temps on 5S with that low KV motor. Maybe it wants more gear ? Bottom line.... It takes some trial and error. It could just be that sensored timing ??? That's something most bash vehicles don't have.
Click to expand...
Good call, I will unplug the sensor wire first and try that. I am using the good old finger to motor method and am getting almost burned. I stopped using my temp sensor years ago when I found people at my local track getting very different results using theirs on just my motor? They don't seem to be accurate at all.

Idk, maybe I have a sensitive fingers. I just don't want to over heat it!
 
ParkRacing said:
Good call, I will unplug the sensor wire first and try that. I am using the good old finger to motor method and am getting almost burned. I stopped using my temp sensor years ago when I found people at my local track getting very different results using theirs on just my motor? They don't seem to be accurate at all.

Idk, maybe I have a sensitive fingers. I just don't want to over heat it!
Click to expand...

LOL...I find my heat temp gun very accurate.. You should be able to touch the motor about 10 seconds and not curse.. If you let out an Oh F*#@K ...it's too hot !!!! You know that rule of thumb already I'm sure. For some reason...you are drawing too much current. Turn the timing down low maybe...if you didn't already have it down. Add some to the Punch to lessen it. I think the Kraton is a heavy slob compared to race buggies and truggies. Also....did you ever notice how smooth the drive train spins on something like a Team Associated 1/8th buggy....it's close to no resistance. Kraton...not so much.

However...I'm running cool on 5S, no reason you can't get it working well also. Keep us posted.
 
Last edited:
Vanning said:
LOL...I find my heat temp gun very accurate.. You should be able to touch the motor about 10 seconds and not curse.. If you let out an Oh F*#@K ...it's too hot !!!! You know that rule of thumb already I'm sure. For some reason...you are drawing too much current. Turn the timing down low maybe...if you didn't already have it down. Add some to the Punch to lessen it. I think the Kraton is a heavy slob compared to race buggies and truggies. Also....did you ever notice how smooth the drive train spins on something like a Team Associated 1/8th buggy....it's close to no resistance. Kraton...not so much.

However...I'm running cool on 5S, no reason you can't get it working well also. Keep us posted.
Click to expand...
Yeah I use the 2 second rule and I can't do That even, so too hot. Yeah I cannot believe how heavy this truck is! Must Mugen mbx6 has a buttery smooth drive train and the kraton is a little crunchy especially after swimming the diffs, maybe too much resistance in the drivetrain...

ParkRacing said:
Yeah I use the 2 second rule and I can't do That even, so too hot. Yeah I cannot believe how heavy this truck is! Must Mugen mbx6 has a buttery smooth drive train and the kraton is a little crunchy especially after swimming the diffs, maybe too much resistance in the drivetrain...
Click to expand...
My Mugen
 
ParkRacing said:
Yeah I use the 2 second rule and I can't do That even, so too hot. Yeah I cannot believe how heavy this truck is! Must Mugen mbx6 has a buttery smooth drive train and the kraton is a little crunchy especially after swimming the diffs, maybe too much resistance in the drivetrain...


My Mugen
Click to expand...
Wow I need to proof read...
Shiming the diffs lol
 
Vanning said:
LOL...I find my heat temp gun very accurate.. You should be able to touch the motor about 10 seconds and not curse.. If you let out an Oh F*#@K ...it's too hot !!!! You know that rule of thumb already I'm sure. For some reason...you are drawing too much current. Turn the timing down low maybe...if you didn't already have it down. Add some to the Punch to lessen it. I think the Kraton is a heavy slob compared to race buggies and truggies. Also....did you ever notice how smooth the drive train spins on something like a Team Associated 1/8th buggy....it's close to no resistance. Kraton...not so much.

However...I'm running cool on 5S, no reason you can't get it working well also. Keep us posted.
Click to expand...
I am running deans, could that be an issue?
 
I switched to ec5 connectors and love them. Rated very high for amperage, very secure connection, trusted and endorsed by many with very expensive high powered planes/helicopters who depend on them to stay airborne. May also consider bad or failing bearing(s) somewhere adding rolling resistance/heat, akin to doing long climbs with RC.
 
Rich Duperbash said:
I switched to ec5 connectors and love them. Rated very high for amperage, very secure connection, trusted and endorsed by many with very expensive high powered planes/helicopters who depend on them to stay airborne. May also consider bad or failing bearing(s) somewhere adding rolling resistance/heat, akin to doing long climbs with RC.
Click to expand...
I too use EC5 and prefer them much more.
 
WoodiE said:
I too use EC5 and prefer them much more.
Click to expand...
Glad to hear you like them too. They are a tad pricey, but then you know your connector isn't a source of failure or unnecessary resistance. XT connectors are nice also, but ec5 is rated a bit higher and already made the switch with my other packs and rigs. I also prefer single connection/single hardcase brick when possible. Here's new EC5 on new Outcast, awaiting maiden voyage today!
IMG_20161127_085555294.jpg
 
That's why Arrma switched connectors early on with the Kraton. They found that they needed better more than likely.
 
No doubt. These bigger rigs and 6s systems are no joke. I melted solder at connection 3 times running my Slash and kids Ruckus really hard. They were good solder jobs, just exceeded their limitations and heated up. I felt better connector became a must. Don't get flustered when I break parts, get frustrated with unexpected failures when out trying to have fun though.
 
I think I will try ec5, how do I know if they are real or a knock off? I Have a fast eddy bearing kit coming today also, I have some really sad stock bearings right now!
 
IMG_20161129_094729941.jpg
ParkRacing said:
I think I will try ec5, how do I know if they are real or a knock off? I Have a fast eddy bearing kit coming today also, I have some really sad stock bearings right now!
Click to expand...
ParkRacing said:
I think I will try ec5, how do I know if they are real or a knock off? I Have a fast eddy bearing kit coming today also, I have some really sad stock bearings right now!
Click to expand...
I've bought all mine from LHS, maybe find cheaper online in packs, do like visiting/supporting store. They sell different combinations ie device/battery, EC5 is stamped on connector.
 
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