Curious on how noisy this thing is????

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SenorWickedStix

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Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton EXB
  2. Typhon 3s
Ill start with back story. Just bought this used EXB Kraton. Was told from the get go by the guy selling it that he thought the rear diff was shot because the last time he ran it (August 2022), it seemed like it was only running front wheel drive. Finally yesterday i got it torn apart and found one of the spider gears has a couple broken teeth. So after many trips to my local hobby shop I’ve finally got the right parts on order. (Kept gettting wrong parts because I didn’t know about all the different model choices. This is my first hobby grade so i have no clue. LoL). So long story short i put it back together with just the front shaft in and ran it around at my office. (Holy poop even with half a drive train this things a blast.) I took some video so I’m hoping you guys can help with figuring out if something is out of alignment or its just its natural noise. Also heres some pictures of the shape the center diff was in. (Gross!!!)


E4AE8308-3FBA-4CC1-8091-A9E7784A95DF.jpeg
 
Most of the noise you hear is at the Pinion and spur gear, Normal. Provided you have the pinion Mesh set properly. And provided the fr and rr diff main/input gears are ok. If not you will hear a pronounced "Clicking" on braking and forward throttle.
The rig was well used. Oils are due now, The silvery darkening of the oil is from the gears metal as they wear down. Normal over time. New silicone oil is clear. Normal to become dark with use. Clean all diff parts well in Brake cleaner solvent . Best way to clean off the old sil. oil. All parts must be clean and emaculate when rebuilding any diff.
Rig looks nice.
Just need to get into all 3 of your diffs now. Do all 3 and you should be good for a while. Usually every 15 runs, check them over again or when you have a drivetrain issue.
I run 60k CST oil front/ 500k center and 30k/rear with my 6s Kraton, and most of my heavier off road 6s rigs. Need to buy those oils and always have them on hand when rebuilding them. And always make sure you shim the fr and Rr diffs properly.
Many threads here in regards. Search on AF . And even many YT videos. After you rebuild your diffs 60+ times it will become second nature.(y):giggle:
Download a copy of the Manual from Arrma-RC .com if you don't have it. It's you bible.
Now might be a good time to have complete set of BB's for your rig. TRBRC sells them. Don't overlook them. BB's should be looked at with used rigs. Not knowing how much use was on them. If it was run in water etc. Ruin sthem easily. They rust out and eventually disintegrate. Bad BB's alone can also ruin an otherwise good diff when they let go. And they will. In a perfect world you want to get at least 15+ runs on your diffs. You don't want to keep taking them out for a part that's bad here and there. Been there.:cool:
 
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Most of the noise you hear is at the Pinion and spur gear, Normal. Provided you have the pinion Mesh set properly. And provided the fr and rr diff main/input gears are ok. If not you will hear a pronounced "Clicking" on braking and forward throttle.
The rig was well used. Oils are due now, The silvery darkening of the oil is from the gears metal as they wear down. Normal over time. New silicone oil is clear. Normal to become dark with use. Clean all diff parts well in Brake cleaner solvent . Best way t clean off the old sil oil. All parts must be clean and emaculate when rebuilding any diff.
Rig looks nice.
Just need to get into all 3 of your diffs now. Do all 3 and you should be good for a while. Usually every 15 runs, check them over again or when you have a drivetrain issue.
I run 60k CST oil front/ 500k center and 30k/rear with my 6s Kraton, and most of my heavier off road 6s rigs. Need to buy those oils and always have them on hand when rebuilding them. And always make sure you shim the fr and Rr diffs properly.
Many threads here in regards. Search on AF . And even many YT videos. After you rebuild your diffs 60+ times it will become second nature.(y):giggle:
Sounds good thanks for the response. I just finished redoing the center diff. Just waiting on the internals for the rear. I’ll tear the front down and do that one as well. :) I did mess with how the pinion and spur as the motor mount screws were messed up and the pinion was all sorts of loose. took it off and pulled the little grub screws and then reset everything and relock tighted them. ill recheck the mesh though. :)
 
Use Blue Threadlocker on the Pinion set screw. Or it will loosen again. Let BL. TL cure for 24 hours before running it.
You got this.
 
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