Custom build: 1/8 scale street Stampede 2wd, slammed!

[sumguy75]

Edit: Build near completion, it is now a Slammedpede!

As some may know my beloved custom build 4s Bandit was the loser in a battle of physics with a wall at 50mph. Though Bandit was mortally wounded, emergency crews were able to save many vital organs to live on.

The Fast Lane extended Bandit chassis was out of stock so I got a Stampede 1/8 chassis. I ordered the new chassis not knowing exactly how a high ground clearance monster truck platform would end up a killer street truck.

To start, spacers to lower the shocks, at least 10mm, shocks at the widest settings, shorter tires (I already have the Proline belted Avengers 4.2"). This makes it more street friendly, but the extra ground clearance is still going to make it rollover prone.

I was looking at it and suddenly realized the PROBLEM is the SOLUTION!!! The 1/8 scale chassis from FLM has plently of space between the braces for a battery!

I can flip the battery to the bottom and cut a kydex plate to run from between skid plates for battery protection. The FLM chassis also has holes perfect to run the battery cable through to the ESC.

Will this end up working great? I have no idea, but I'm willing to give it a shot! Should be working on this some time next week.
Already have an 89 Ford F150 i painted a few weeks ago that should be perfect...

 

[FireDrake001]

I reserve the right to change my mind!

As some may know my beloved custom build 4s Bandit was the loser in a battle of physics with a wall at 50mph. Though Bandit was mortally wounded, emergency crews were able to save many vital organs to live on.

The extended Bandit chassis was out of stock so I got a Stampede 12.5" wb extended chassis. I already have one built for off road, started with an RTR brushed and built it into this:
View attachment 300742

I ordered the new chassis not knowing exactly how a high ground clearance monster truck platform would end up a killer street truck.

To start, spacers to lower the shocks, at least 10mm, shocks at the widest settings, shorter tires (I already have the Proline belted Avengers 4.2"). This makes it more street friendly, but the extra ground clearance is still going to make it rollover prone.

Then after walking to my work table with my current Stampede sitting upside down, it hit me like 14.8v of lightning!

The PROBLEM is the SOLUTION!!! The 1/8 scale chassis from FLM has plently of space between the braces for a battery!
View attachment 300750

I can flip the battery to the bottom and cut a kydex plate to run from between skid plates for battery protection. The FLM chassis also has holes perfect to run the battery cable through to the ESC. I would then be free to move the ESC and receiver box forward for balancing the front and rear.
View attachment 300751
Will this end up working great? I have no idea, but I'm willing to give it a shot! Should be working on this some time next week.
Already have an 89 Ford F150 i painted a few weeks ago that should be perfect...
View attachment 300752

Awesome! Sweet rig.

 

[KnowAir]

I reserve the right to change my mind!

As some may know my beloved custom build 4s Bandit was the loser in a battle of physics with a wall at 50mph. Though Bandit was mortally wounded, emergency crews were able to save many vital organs to live on.

The extended Bandit chassis was out of stock so I got a Stampede 12.5" wb extended chassis. I already have one built for off road, started with an RTR brushed and built it into this:
View attachment 300742

I ordered the new chassis not knowing exactly how a high ground clearance monster truck platform would end up a killer street truck.

To start, spacers to lower the shocks, at least 10mm, shocks at the widest settings, shorter tires (I already have the Proline belted Avengers 4.2"). This makes it more street friendly, but the extra ground clearance is still going to make it rollover prone.

Then after walking to my work table with my current Stampede sitting upside down, it hit me like 14.8v of lightning!

The PROBLEM is the SOLUTION!!! The 1/8 scale chassis from FLM has plently of space between the braces for a battery!
View attachment 300750

I can flip the battery to the bottom and cut a kydex plate to run from between skid plates for battery protection. The FLM chassis also has holes perfect to run the battery cable through to the ESC. I would then be free to move the ESC and receiver box forward for balancing the front and rear.
View attachment 300751
Will this end up working great? I have no idea, but I'm willing to give it a shot! Should be working on this some time next week.
Already have an 89 Ford F150 i painted a few weeks ago that should be perfect...
View attachment 300752

Looks killer! That's pretty bold mounting the battery down there! Awesome paint jobs bud!

 

[sumguy75]

Just checked tracking and the new chassis will be in tomorrow. I'm still not 100% I'm going to like the bottom mount, experimental for sure. I have an Axial battery tray that I was planning to strap the battery into so its protected on all sides, then I'll look and consider if I need to add a extra kydex skid guard. The rig is so light I don't mind adding a some ounces as long as its lowering the center of gravity. I added 6 ounces of weight to the front of my off road build to help keep the front down. I rarely hit full throttle and don't even need a fan running back to back packs of 4s.

 

[#ARRMArcfanboy4life]

Just checked tracking and the new chassis will be in tomorrow. I'm still not 100% I'm going to like the bottom mount, experimental for sure. I have an Axial battery tray that I was planning to strap the battery into so its protected on all sides, then I'll look and consider if I need to add a extra kydex skid guard. The rig is so light I don't mind adding a some ounces as long as its lowering the center of gravity. I added 6 ounces of weight to the front of my off road build to help keep the front down. I rarely hit full throttle and don't even need a fan running back to back packs of 4s.

The video is "private" if you don't want it public, you could make it unlisted and only shareable by link.

 

[Ghast]

Love this. Those paint jobs are sweet.

 

[sumguy75]

The video is "private" if you don't want it public, you could make it unlisted and only shareable by link.

Should be public now. Not sure why my YT phone app wants to switch it to private even after I select public...
Anyway, switched it on my laptop and it should show as public now.

Just a little 30s clip of my first time running the 4068 motor.

 

[sumguy75]

Got the front and rear end done. 50&60wt shock oil and 10mm spacers on the shafts to lower the ride height. Switched from an 83t to 72t pinion.
Just need to attach the new chassis and electronics and figure out the battery position.

 

[KnowAir]

Got the front and rear end done. 50&60wt shock oil and 10mm spacers on the shafts to lower the ride height. Switched from an 83t to 72t pinion.
Just need to attach the new chassis and electronics and figure out the battery position.
View attachment 302188View attachment 302189

Nice! Lookin good I still gotta get me a set of those towers.. I have them in my basket..

 

[sumguy75]

New chassis/braces/skids installed and servo mounted, hoping i find time to finish it for a first run this weekend...

 

[KnowAir]

New chassis/braces/skids installed and servo mounted, hoping i find time to finish it for a first run this weekend...View attachment 302260View attachment 302261

I gotta say, the Fastlane stuff looks really nice, especially for the price!! Sweet!! Hope ya get a chance to give it a rip

 

[sumguy75]

I blame Fast Lane for my obsession with 2wd Traxxas rigs! It's definitely more budget friendly than a lot of other rigs I'd like to do a build with.

Got the body mounts on, need to put 3 more hex studs in so i can use thumbscrews for the body. I put 2 Proline posts directly on the shock tower to get it extra low.

Up front I used part of a Proline mount on the shock tower and stuffed 2 Arrma body posts in. Took a few seconds of shaving it down with a hobby knife and then it popped right in.

It feels like it should handle good the way its built now so Im going to mount the battery on top of the chassis as close to the servo as it will go to start with. If the center of gravity feels too high, I'll try the lower battery mount idea.

I'll mount the esc and receiver in the back on a kydex plate. Other than that, all it needs is a front bumper and holes for the body mounts for the new F150 body. Hoping to run it Sunday!

 

[sumguy75]

Ran it yesterday, holy crap its fast, lol. Handled good overll, but turning hard without enough throttle to break traction led to a couple of rollovers.
Decided to go bottom mount with the battery, everything fits great!

Heated up some thick kydex to 300 and made a protective cover. The kydex has a cabon fiber pattern so i like the look. . For a test run i just screwed it to the chassis braces. If i like it enough I'll find a way to make it easy to open for battery removal.

With everything in place it sits flush or barely lower, exactly what i hoped!

Wires go through with a little shaving down the Ec5 connector, can move the esc/receiver forward to improve the weight distribution if needed.

Time for a bash now!

 

[sumguy75]

Got a new set of pinions coming Friday, 30-34t. Running 28/72 right now with a 2250kv 3670 motor. Super high torque and lightning acceleration, hits top speed pretty fast, I'm guessing in the 45-50 range. Just wanted to get a feel for it at lower speeds before I attempt any speed runs. Have no goals for crazy numbers, just interested in seeing what it can do set up like this going up 6t on the pinion.

 

[sumguy75]

GRP's, new pinion gears, and a new Max10sct came in. Bought the old 120a Max10 on ebay, after my 140a Max10 g2 died I don't trust it as much as the 120a version. Mounted it a little different with the esc moved to shift some weight forward a bit and receiver box right behind it.

Planning to redo the bottom mount battery setup. Using .125 kydex to make side guards to attach to the front and rear chassis braces to protect the battery from the sides. That will leave enough room for me to strap the battery in the middle with a protective cover over it.

The box i made worked fine and is very strong but don't like needing to remove 4 screws for every battery swap.

Grps have it sitting low, I like it! s5 compound feels great. Went from 28/72 to 32/72 gearing, was planning 30/72 but the Avengers were about 1/4 inch taller so I went up an extra 2t. Its in the mid 80s so should be fun seeing what the grps can do.

 

[sumguy75]

Had a little free time this morning and reworked the bottom battery mount. Protected all the way around by .125 kydex, holy crap that stuff is tough to cut, even with my Kwiss cutter.
Didn't mind because I wanted it to be strong.

Now its sitting low & ready to go!!!

 

[KnowAir]

Had a little free time this morning and reworked the bottom battery mount. Protected all the way around by .125 kydex, holy crap that stuff is tough to cut, even with my Kwiss cutter.
Didn't mind because I wanted it to be strong.
View attachment 305600View attachment 305601View attachment 305602

Now its sitting low & ready to go!!!
View attachment 305603

Lookin good! I've used circular and jig saws to cut kydex. Angle grinder to smooth or round off edges.

 

[sumguy75]

Yeah I think .060 is fine for simpler cutting tools but next time I work with anything .080 or thicker I'm reaching for the Dremel with a cutting bit, lol.

 

[KnowAir]

Yeah I think .060 is fine for simpler cutting tools but next time I work with anything .080 or thicker I'm reaching for the Dremel with a cutting bit, lol.

Don't mind me.. I use a 4" angle grinder to trim rc bodies!! I may be a bit of a caveman, LOL

 

[sumguy75]

Replaced the 3670 Rocket motor with a 4068 2400kv Hobbystar with the Fast Lane transmission case. Geared 34/86, motor is too big for the 72t spur lol.