DA’s winterproject: HPI Vorza slow (re)build

[gotnitro]

Did he seriously reuse a Dremel slotted screw? Dude.. WTF..

 

[Double Apex]

You talking about the Phillips heads or the grub screws being so tight the sway's don't even move? Or the front hinge pin retainer plate being upside down?

Both . it’s always worth the effort to disassemble a used car completely

Did he seriously reuse a Dremel slotted screw? Dude.. WTF..

Euhm no…i did, couldn’t get it out because it was won out. Am i about to learn something new

 

[gotnitro]

Euhm no…i did, couldn’t get it out because it was won out. Am i about to learn something new

Perfect! That's how it's done! I thought he might have reused it, wouldn't be the first time I seen that either

 

[Double Apex]

Perfect! That's how it's done! I thought he might have reused it, wouldn't be the first time I seen that either

ah okay, yeah I’ve seen that too . Fortunately he didn’t but he sure did use some strong loctite


I found a guy in Greece who made regular motor mounts for the Vorza. Couldn’t resist and bought it on a whim. to my surprise it arrived 6 days later. Quality and fit seems good at first glance. Hopefully the motor wont move from left to right since it has no screws coming form the top keeping the motor in place.

(I noticed he also sells these mounts on ebay but the cost a bit more)

 

[Double Apex]

Worked on the front diff today. Found a crack in the housing. Fortunately a new housing arrived today in the mail.

 

[Double Apex]

Will you be racing it? If you're going to bash that buggy, you'll need a totally different set up.

Here's what mine was set up at for racing. I pretty much do the same with a few minor tweaks with 1/8th buggies. If you're going to eyeball these settings, it's going to be hard. Need a set up station to dial in any race buggy properly.

Ride: 27-28mm (bones just under flush center with the ground)

Shocks: stock 3-hole piston 100% rebound 25WT front, 20Wt rear.

Diffs: F-7k, C-5k, R-3k.

F camber -1.5
R camber -2

F toe -1.5
R toe stock default I believe is -2

Front castor, stock default of I believe +2

After some thinking I came to the conclusion I’ll be riding this car more of than on the track. If I would try and find a setup that’s good for bashing but still fun on track. What diff fluids would be suitable? Something like F7-C10-R5?

 

[gotnitro]

After some thinking I came to the conclusion I’ll be riding this car more of than on the track. If I would try and find a setup that’s good for bashing but still fun on track. What diff fluids would be suitable? Something like F7-C10-R5?

For bashing, I would go heavier in the CD, keep the front and rear diff’s around 10k (less in the rear) and raise your right height a few MM. I could be wrong I could be right, never really bashed a buggy. Even then you still could be unloading on the front with traction.

 

[Double Apex]

I found a really good deal on the high mount rear shock tower on an Italian site. Wasn’t really planning on using the 112 mm shocks but couldn’t resist this steal of a deal. In order to make up for the high shipping costs I ordered two of them and a bunch of other stuff. So now I really saved me some money

Oh …and have to get me some 112 mm shocks to (still have to find a rationalization for myself for this but I’m usually good at that)

 

[slick2500]

I lucked out and got my high mount shock tower on eBay for like $20.

I'm trying to remember what diff fluids I used but I don't remember.

 

[Double Apex]

Today I installed the center diff with 46t pinion. I noticed that with the new motormount the diff had a little play so I used some shims to fix that. Unfortunately the outdrives of the center diff are a bit bigger than the f/r outdrives so I could not slide de shims over them. This meant I had to open up the diff again in order to get the shims between the bearing and the outdrive .

The end result for today:

 

[Double Apex]

Installed the rear section today and upgraded the original 3mm rear center driveshaft for a 4mm one. The Corally Radix’ rear driveshaft was a de direct fit.

 

[slick2500]

Installed the rear section today and upgraded the original 3mm rear center driveshaft for a 4mm one. The Corally Radix’ rear driveshaft was a de direct fit.

View attachment 277492

That is awesome. I've never bent the center shafts in mine but it is good to know that a thicker option is available. Does the front fit then? I currently have the D8 front center cvd shaft in mine.

 

[Double Apex]

The radix front center driveshaft is shorter unfortunately (87,5 mm or 85 mm depending on where I look on the Corally site) The Vorza‘s is 90 mm. The best fit ive found was the rear dogbone of the Typhon which is 91mm and should work since there is more than enough room for the extra 1mm.

 

[Double Apex]

I wanted to know what the setting is the ESC where. I didn’t really wanted to buy a Castle Link but annoyingly Castle doesn’t let you program the esc manually like Hobbywing does (as far as I know).

Played with the thought just replacing the ESC for a Max 8 but since I never owned a Castle esc I was curious if I would notice the difference and bit the bullet on the 35 euro for the Castle Link.

In the end I was happy I checked the settings. The LVC was set on 3v (changed it to 3.5 which was the max setting) and the bec was set at 5v ( in line with the standards of 2010 ), upped this to 7v.

 

[Double Apex]

After installing the ESC I was busy installing the motor when I saw this (sorry for the blurry picture). One step forward two steps back.

 

[slick2500]

I wanted to know what the setting is the ESC where. I didn’t really wanted to buy a Castle Link but annoyingly Castle doesn’t let you program the esc manually like Hobbywing does (as far as I know).

Played with the thought just replacing the ESC for a Max 8 but since I never owned a Castle esc I was curious if I would notice the difference and bit the bullet on the 35 euro for the Castle Link.

In the end I was happy I checked the settings. The LVC was set on 3v (changed it to 3.5 which was the max setting) and the bec was set at 5v ( in line with the standards of 2010 ), upped this to 7v.

I think you can an program it without the program card.

 

[Double Apex]

The 112 mm shocks arrived. Found a great deal on them in Poland. Of course shipping costs where high so I order a lot of other stuff (again) to save costs. Sure saved a lot of costs this build.

I’m not happy with the length of one of the mounting screws but didn’t have the right length at hand. I’ll change it another time.

Installed the motor too. After some research decided on a 17t pinion and a 46 spur for 4s riding.