Damage screw!!! ='( please your help!!

[Greywolf74]

And both are lighter as well.

Good point

 

[Greengaunja]

This is true. If Im not mistaken the main reason ppl use titanium or SS screws is corrosion resistance, not strength.

Well titanium is stronger than most steel. Bolts are different and made higher grade due to the nature of its use.
I use SS in my RC solely for the corrosion resistance because I prefer wet driving. I have an order in with my local Fastenal for 3x the titanium bolts for my rcs. Again only to keep rust at bay and because SS is so damn soft that it's idiotic someone would make a SS bolt this small. Seems every second or third one strips (and with my MIPs too) just tightening them.

 

[slick2500]

Well titanium is stronger than most steel. Bolts are different and made higher grade due to the nature of its use.
I use SS in my RC solely for the corrosion resistance because I prefer wet driving. I have an order in with my local Fastenal for 3x the titanium bolts for my rcs. Again only to keep rust at bay and because SS is so damn soft that it's idiotic someone would make a SS bolt this small. Seems every second or third one strips (and with my MIPs too) just tightening them.

Yup anything stainless M3 and smaller countersunk or button head suck, cap heads no problems yet.

 

[Rodrigol]

Hello guys


First sorry for my english.I read each post and got the most knowledge from your experiences. then I got down to work ... I had my dremel and flat screwdriver on hand. I tried the simplest thing, it was risky for the chassis ... I damaged it a few millimeters but I think that the damage is not relevant. I got a good cut but the screw didn't come out... I wanted to replace the complete steering system (jenny rc). I thought the world ended there.
Then try the top screws (they were also hard by loctite). An inelegant but effective job ... I got better results here, I was able to disassemble the steering system. as the chassis screw was hard ... I left it in peace and kept the original steering posts.I included as an additional the exb spring servo saver for better results. Result ... I repaired the rigid servo saver, that damaged the servo arm, when not activated. It is not the most beautiful but I can enjoy the kraton again.

Thanks to all!!

 

[slick2500]

Hello guys


First sorry for my english.I read each post and got the most knowledge from your experiences. then I got down to work ... I had my dremel and flat screwdriver on hand. I tried the simplest thing, it was risky for the chassis ... I damaged it a few millimeters but I think that the damage is not relevant. I got a good cut but the screw didn't come out... I wanted to replace the complete steering system (jenny rc). I thought the world ended there.
Then try the top screws (they were also hard by loctite). An inelegant but effective job ... I got better results here, I was able to disassemble the steering system. as the chassis screw was hard ... I left it in peace and kept the original steering posts.I included as an additional the exb spring servo saver for better results. Result ... I repaired the rigid servo saver, that damaged the servo arm, when not activated. It is not the most beautiful but I can enjoy the kraton again.

Thanks to all!!

View attachment 153708

View attachment 153709

Next time use cap head screws there, they are so much easier to remove. https://www.ebay.com/itm/293657351971?hash=item445f579723:g:05AAAOSwY6lfF7di

I actually replace all of the button heads and flat heads I can with cap heads.

 

[WickedFog]

If you find yourself in this situation next time, try using a Torx bit. More often than not if I have a stripped allen head screw, there is a torx size that will squeeze in there and get enough grip to remove the screw. Put some Pb Blaster penetrating oil on the screw the day before trying to remove it. Then add heat with a soldering gun to loosen the Loctite and drive the Torx bit in and remove the screw.

If there isn't any plastic near the screw you can try to solder or braze an allen wrench into the screw. Make sure to use some flux.

The problem with RC cars is all the vibration causes screws to loosen. Hence the need for Loctite. When in actuality we should be using anti-seize. When you put a screw into aluminum, the two metals will react together and form corrosion. No matter what type metal your screw is made of, corrosion will occur. Stainless is your best option to combat this, but even stainless and aluminum will react together.

What you can do to slow this process down is paint your screws before installing them, whatever type of screw you use. Yes, installing the screw will likely remove some paint, but it is FAR better than not painting them. I use Rustoleum.

Also, when you do use Loctite, don't get crazy. If you can see the loctite on the screw, that is enough. So many times in build videos I have seen people putting a poop-ton of Loctite on their screws. There is absolutely NO need to do that. You just need a tiny drop of Loctite on there, which sets, and prevents the screw from turning freely.

Hope this helps.

 

[Greywolf74]

If you find yourself in this situation next time, try using a Torx bit. More often than not if I have a stripped allen head screw, there is a torx size that will squeeze in there and get enough grip to remove the screw. Put some Pb Blaster penetrating oil on the screw the day before trying to remove it. Then add heat with a soldering gun to loosen the Loctite and drive the Torx bit in and remove the screw.

This is a good idea. Thanks!