Infraction data log help

[LibertyMKiii]

Thanks, it felt like a good pass as soon as I ran it. I’ve hit 120 so I just want to keep going now! I’d like to get to 125-130mph now on this set up.
So couple questions -
-Yes I’m running 30T pinion and 34T spur. What do you think of going to 29T spur instead of gearing up the pinion?
- What about aerodynamics - front and rear wings are still stock - should I trim them right down?
-so is it normal I’m still only hitting 33k ish rpm?
I feel like I can get more out of this without changing much - they were good runs but I still squiggle a bit with keeping it straight. Are you guys running AVC receivers? Or does that take away from power...I’m currently not.

Yes, you wont see more than 33k on this motor as you gear up higher.

You could trim down the wing a little but overall you just need more gearing.
Some times the a gyro can do the wrong thing and fight you so most of us avoid it... Check the alignment and possibly look at removing slop from the wheels. Mostly this is shims on the axle stubs that go through the hubs and then Mugen rod ends and balls helps on the steering links and rear camber links.

Trim a little off the wings and gear up and see what happens. Taking the spur down 5 teeth or moving the pinion up 5 teeth does the same thing.

 

[sleekone]

Check the alignment and possibly look at removing slop from the wheels. Mostly this is shims on the axle stubs that go through the hubs and then Mugen rod ends and balls helps on the steering links and rear camber links.

Any links to the right shims and Mugen rod ends?
I have Lundsford pillow balls I haven’t put in yet, and some ceramic bearings from Jims. Little things I just haven’t got around to yet but I didn’t go into work today so I know what I’m doing! ?

 

[LibertyMKiii]

@sleekone

@BashingBrian did the leg work here... https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/bashingbrians-infraction-build-sort-of.14088/
Post #1 for shims
Post #39 for turnbuckle parts. Looks like it was Tekno for the rear and Mugen for the front.

I found that only replacing the plastic ends and balls was a better fit than using the mugen metal links.

 

[sleekone]

todays run. 113mph. no changes to set up.

it looks like Power Out drops off about a second before Throttle In does...am i misreading this? what would cause that..?

 

[LibertyMKiii]

todays run. 113mph. no changes to set up.

it looks like Power Out drops off about a second before Throttle In does...am i misreading this? what would cause that..?

I suspect it is just latency in the data logs between the data points. It was following the throttle line pretty well other than that spot you noted.
Maybe there is more to that?

What is cool is that in the 2 to 3 seconds you held full throttle the car gained about 10mph. If you could hold that for a little longer it would have been even better. I couldn't imagine doing speed runs without data logs, so much to learn from it...

 

[Mr.Duke]

Turn the graph smoothing off and screenshot the raw data to see if there’s anything that sticks out towards the end of the pass

 

[jkflow]

Don't know enough but this ESC, one theory I have is that you are at ~25V for a couple seconds and maybe there is a 2nd level LVC that prevents battery damage? This equates to 3.125V/cell.
This literally looks like it shut down as the current goes down in a nice smooth line and really didn't care about your throttle input any longer.

Did it actually respond after the fact?

 

[sleekone]

Don't know enough but this ESC, one theory I have is that you are at ~25V for a couple seconds and maybe there is a 2nd level LVC that prevents battery damage? This equates to 3.125V/cell.
This literally looks like it shut down as the current goes down in a nice smooth line and really didn't care about your throttle input any longer.

Did it actually respond after the fact?

Not 100% positive but pretty sure there’s no second LVC. It responded just fine after the fact, had no issues turning around and driving it back to me...

 

[Mr.Duke]

Raw data (Smoothing disabled) should be pretty much on the money for Throttle Input and ESC Output.
When you view the data log with smoothing “low” or “high” enabled it makes it easier to read but it also runs your lines along the averages between data points and makes the information less accurate.

Here’s an example of the same run but raw data vs [smoothing low] under the drop down menu for [VIEW]
Note that with “smoothing on”, it appears the ESC was late on full throttle and early off throttle, but looking at the raw data up top the ECS followed the transmitter commands exactly. This is why I always try to focus on the raw graph data as it’s more accurate when I’m looking for test results or trying to figure out why I didn’t meet my goal for the session

 

[sleekone]

Raw data (Smoothing disabled) should be pretty much on the money for Throttle Input and ESC Output.
When you view the data log with smoothing “low” or “high” enabled it makes it easier to read but it also runs your lines along the averages between data points and makes the information less accurate.

Here’s an example of the same run but raw data vs [smoothing low] under the drop down menu for [VIEW]
Note that with “smoothing on”, it appears the ESC was late on full throttle and early off throttle, but looking at the raw data up top the ECS followed the transmitter commands exactly. This is why I always try to focus on the raw graph data as it’s more accurate when I’m looking for test results or trying to figure out why I didn’t meet my goal for the session
View attachment 101118View attachment 101119

Awesome. I’m loving this more and more. This hobby just got a whole lot more interesting!!

 

[BashingBrian]

@sleekone

@BashingBrian did the leg work here... https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/bashingbrians-infraction-build-sort-of.14088/
Post #1 for shims
Post #39 for turnbuckle parts. Looks like it was Tekno for the rear and Mugen for the front.

I found that only replacing the plastic ends and balls was a better fit than using the mugen metal links.

Yeah.. you only really need the ends and balls, I found the Tekno stuff to be the best so far..
Originally I got the Mugens as they were cheap on Jenny's ?

 

[sleekone]

Just picked these up...we’ll see what happens ??

 

[LibertyMKiii]

Just picked these up...we’ll see what happens ??
View attachment 101151

Any chance you can return them?
The 6400's are the ones to get. If you look at the PF rating that is the voltage level they drop to under a test load. This one is 3.83 V per cell under this standardized test. The 6400 packs only drop to 4.01 in that same test...

 

[sleekone]

Any chance you can return them?
The 6400's are the ones to get. If you look at the PF rating that is the voltage level they drop to under a test load. This one is 3.83 V per cell under this standardized test. The 6400 packs only drop to 4.01 in that same test...

? ?
i miiiiight be able to return them....i'm def gonna try now.
if not.....anyone wanna buy a brand new set of SMCs?????
i see the 6400 are 150C too. dang. what about any of the other 120Cs? like 8000 or 9000 mAhs.. theyre 120C still but would they be any different?

where do you see the PF rating..?

are these the right ones?
https://www.smc-racing.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=67_189&product_id=571&limit=100

and so if i can't return them...did i just blow $300 or will i still see improvements you think?

 

[LibertyMKiii]

? ?
i miiiiight be able to return them....i'm def gonna try now.
if not.....anyone wanna buy a brand new set of SMCs?????
i see the 6400 are 150C too. dang. what about any of the other 120Cs? like 8000 or 9000 mAhs.. theyre 120C still but would they be any different?

where do you see the PF rating..?

are these the right ones?
https://www.smc-racing.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=67_189&product_id=571&limit=100

and so if i can't return them...did i just blow $300 or will i still see improvements you think?

I am sure these batteries will perform well, but not to the level of the 6400 mah packs. At the cost of these Id want the best ones...

As far as I can tell only their 6400 mah packs have this same PF 401 rating. (translated to 4.01v per cell with their test)
You will see it on the front label of the battery

 

[sleekone]

new PB today! after i crashed and lost the rear wing this morning on a tire blowout i went back out determined lol 122mph!

 

[sleekone]

second last run of the day with the gensacearespammers batteries new PB 130mph! (128mph on the GSM but I’ll take the 130! ?)
No front or rear wings either.
super happy with that!! then blew out a front tire on the next run lol

 

[sleekone]

went out with some GRP S7s today and hit 127 & 124mph. no other changes. turned line smoothing off on the graph - here's the 127 run:

looks like RPMs are still climbing albeit slowly...what you think - if i could hold it a few more seconds could probably see a bit more speed. what else is holding me back?
I'm exchanging the SMCs i have for the better 6400s so that should improve too.
fyi this was also with no rear wing and no front wings...don't know if that made it better or worse! lol

 

[jkflow]

Looks like it's improving quickly!

Your batteries are falling apart before you hit max throttle (178), you can see how the red line drops before you hit the max.
Your max RPM seems around 179.6 and your voltage falls apart again around 180.4 i.e. I don't believe you would have gained any RPM by holding it longer.

@jondilly1974 Odd thing I noticed is the motor temp, there seems to be a bug in the entire system. Heard about other folks having issues as well.
I doubt that you started at 54F and that the motor temp went down during the run. I assume that you have a sensored system with this capability.

 

[sleekone]

Looks like it's improving quickly!

Your batteries are falling apart before you hit max throttle (178), you can see how the red line drops before you hit the max.
Your max RPM seems around 179.6 and your voltage falls apart again around 180.4 i.e. I don't believe you would have gained any RPM by holding it longer.

@jondilly1974 Odd thing I noticed is the motor temp, there seems to be a bug in the entire system. Heard about other folks having issues as well.
I doubt that you started at 54F and that the motor temp went down during the run. I assume that you have a sensored system with this capability.

I’m thinking the motor temp thing could be possible - 54° is about ambient outside where I am today, and I’ve got twin NTF fans running on it. So it could start at ambient and as soon as I turn the fans on it goes down a couple degrees?
yes I’m running sensored, Castle 1717
And thanks for the comments too! You guys are the reason I’m improving. These data logs are awesome!!!