Outcast Deanodized 8s shocks are a thing of beauty!

[Couch_Bro]

Having experimented with de-anodizing shocks, I always felt the shock bodies run more plush and wear out less when internally anodized. ( coated)
Polishing the inner shock body bore with a dremel and jewlers rouge will help some in this regard, once de-anodized. Shock pack can be affected also with the subtle removal of inner material. Needing to up oil weight or change out the pistons to accomadate.
I'm am anal about my shocks. I even polish the shafts in a drill when they are brand new or just rebuilding them.
Just my spin.

Edited.

I’m having some issues with the shocks on my Kraton 8s. I’ve posted about it in the suspension and 8S section but haven’t had any responses so I’ve been looking around myself for some options.

The inside of the stock shock bodies are scratched. I think due to the lower O-rings being worn the shaft and piston had some lateral movement which caused the piston to scratch the coating inside the shock.

I think it’s just the coating that is scratched and not the aluminum but some of them feel pretty deep so I assumed they were a loss. I was going to replace the shock bodies and rebuild the shocks or potentially go with an aftermarket option but seeing your post about polishing the inside with a Dremel makes me think that they may be salvageable.

Any further advice on how to do this and exactly what attachments to use? The inner bore is 20mm. Thanks

 

[marucci87]

I’m having some issues with the shocks on my Kraton 8s. I’ve posted about it in the suspension and 8S section but haven’t had any responses so I’ve been looking around myself for some options.

The inside of the stock shock bodies are scratched. I think due to the lower O-rings being worn the shaft and piston had some lateral movement which caused the piston to scratch the coating inside the shock.

I think it’s just the coating that is scratched and not the aluminum but some of them feel pretty deep so I assumed they were a loss. I was going to replace the shock bodies and rebuild the shocks or potentially go with an aftermarket option but seeing your post about polishing the inside with a Dremel makes me think that they may be salvageable.

Any further advice on how to do this and exactly what attachments to use? The inner bore is 20mm. Thanks

Maybe de anodize the whole shock and get the M2C oring shock pistons…this may save you from from buying shocks, and on top of that it’s a awesome upgrade, my truck lands so much better with the oring pistons. I would polish the inside of the shock bore with a Dremel, small cloth wheel, and aluminum polish for even better performance.

 

[Couch_Bro]

Maybe de anodize the whole shock and get the M2C oring shock pistons…this may save you from from buying shocks, and on top of that it’s a awesome upgrade, my truck lands so much better with the oring pistons. I would polish the inside of the shock bore with a Dremel, small cloth wheel, and aluminum polish for even better performance.

I actually have the M2C pistons and shafts with Hot Racing bleeder caps and HR lower caps setup bladderless. I agree that the M2C pistons are awesome so I want to salvage this setup if possible.

If I end up having to replace the shock bodies and the hot racing lower caps which are leaking and allowing a lot of side to side play in the shaft, I would be right around the price of brand new GPM shocks. I’m fine with doing that once but I’d rather not have to do it every year which is about how long I got out of my current set up.

I think I will try to polish the inside of the bodies as mentioned and rebuild all of the O-rings to see how that works.

Too bad M2C doesn’t make M2C a 5mm kit for the lower section like they do for their 7mm shaft.

 

[SrC]

Which 8s shocks are we talking about? The RTR or Roller upgraded 8s shocks. They are different.
I think GPM shocks would definitely be a downgrade IMHO.
GPM stuff aint all that. Been there with much of their stuff. I avoid that brand now. I say work with the stock shocks.
Just not sure if you have the Larger piston shaft upgraded OE 8s shocks or not???? The bottom cartridge is beefier.

 

[BashingBrian]

I think GPM shocks would definitely be a downgrade IMHO.
GPM stuff aint all that. Been there with much of their stuff. I avoid that brand now.

Totally agree there stuff is not worth the money

 

[.AJ.]

I’m going to de-anodise my shocks tomorrow, but only the outsides

I did a few parts in the week and they came out great

 

[Couch_Bro]

Which 8s shocks are we talking about? The RTR or Roller upgraded 8s shocks. They are different.
I think GPM shocks would definitely be a downgrade IMHO.
GPM stuff aint all that. Been there with much of their stuff. I avoid that brand now. I say work with the stock shocks.
Just not sure if you have the Larger piston shaft upgraded OE 8s shocks or not???? The bottom cartridge is beefier.

They were the Kraton 8S BLX v1.5 which was the second version of the RTR with 5mm shafts.

I know the EXP version came with 7 mm shafts but mine are still 5mm. I did replace the stock shafts with M2C shafts and haven’t had any issues with them. I also replaced the shock cap and lower cartridge with hot racing parts so really the only thing stock left is the shock bodies.

I think the hot racing lower cartridge is the cause of the problem. There’s too much play in the shaft. I ordered new O-rings and we’ll see if that helps.

Only thing I was unsure of is whether to go with silicone or nitrile for the O-rings. The hot racing kit came with silicone for the lower cartridge but it’s very soft and I’m wondering if that’s why the shaft moves around so much. Nitrile is definitely firmer but may not seal the shaft as well. I think most shocks have silicone O-rings around the shaft if I’m not mistaken.

I ended up going with silicone for the lowers and nitrile for the piston and caps.

I’m going to de-anodise my shocks tomorrow, but only the outsides

I did a few parts in the week and they came out great View attachment 239097View attachment 239098View attachment 239099

Wow, they do look much better as bare aluminum. I wonder if there’s a clear-coat you could use to keep the finish looking like that.

Totally agree there stuff is not worth the money

Thanks for the heads up. I don’t have any GPM stuff but good to know. I’m surprised there are no other aftermarket options for the K8S besides upgrading the existing shocks.

M2C makes all the parts required except for the shock bodies and springs but I feel like they could handle that easily enough and put out a complete aftermarket shock. Would probably sell ok.

 

[SrC]

I feel silicone o-rings are best when used with a Silicone oil. I would think that Nitrile rubber would have more shock "sticktion". Less of a smooth stroke??? I could be wrong.
Nitrile Rubber has different properties and usually hardens with silicone over time. Silicone seals normally swell with Silicone oil. Not a bad thing actually. Maintaining a better seal over time. Rubber and silicone are not the best match I tried Nitrile with one of my Crawler's shocks. They were PL shocks. Which sucked out the box. PL kept sending me replacement O -rings that would leak immediately and just from sitting on the shelf overnight...were almost empty. So I tried Nitrile rubber ones and they ended up leaking with use over time. Still better than the PL ones. PL shocks suck BTW...IMHO. Support is even worse.
There is nothing wrong with the 8s OE shock bodies themselves. M2C designed the upgrade related parts for these shock bodies.

 

[Couch_Bro]

I feel silicone o-rings are best when used with a Silicone oil. I would think that Nitrile rubber would have more shock "sticktion". Less of a smooth stroke??? I could be wrong.
Nitrile Rubber has different properties and usually hardens with silicone over time. Silicone seals normally swell with Silicone oil. Not a bad thing actually. Maintaining a better seal over time. Rubber and silicone are not the best match I tried Nitrile with one of my Crawler's shocks. They were PL shocks. Which sucked out the box. PL kept sending me replacement O -rings that would leak immediately and just from sitting on the shelf overnight...were almost empty. So I tried Nitrile rubber ones and they ended up leaking with use over time. Still better than the PL ones. PL shocks suck BTW...IMHO. Support is even worse.
There is nothing wrong with the 8s OE shock bodies themselves. M2C designed the upgrade related parts for these shock bodies.

Thanks for the input. It makes sense that silicon O rings would interact with the oil better. I already ordered some nitrile o rings for the pistons because I was trying to increase the stability but they were cheap so I’ll prob reorder them in silicone. I can definitely see the possibility of them sticking and not working as smoothly.

Fortunately I ordered silicone o rings for the lower cartridge which seals around the shaft. That point seems like it would be the most likely to leak…and stick.

 

[SrC]

Thanks for the input. It makes sense that silicon O rings would interact with the oil better. I already ordered some nitrile o rings for the pistons because I was trying to increase the stability but they were cheap so I’ll prob reorder them in silicone. I can definitely see the possibility of them sticking and not working as smoothly.

Fortunately I ordered silicone o rings for the lower cartridge which seals around the shaft. That point seems like it would be the most likely to leak…and stick.

Most leaks are at the bottom cartridge. Use Green Slime on the O-rings. If the caps leak, just replace o-ring/seal. The Piston O-ring is something different altogether. @Rich Duperbash likes those pistons. Says they are plush. I don't have them. I want to do an Aerated/emulsion shock. (without Bladder).

 

[carckton driver]

I’m going to de-anodise my shocks tomorrow, but only the outsides

how do you plan on plugging the ends of the shock body and what is is that you soaked your parts in?

 

[SrC]

If it were me, keeping the inside anodizing there, I put the shock caps on and use something suitable to plug the bottom. Just dip them up to the bottom cartridge threads. The chem. should keep from getting inside this way.
I use a very strong Degreaser. Anod. comes off quick. Repeat as needed You can probably remove the Anodizing by just wiping the exterior with the chemical used if strong enough. My degreaser will strip anodizing in a minute or 2. Don't let sit too long or the Alu. will turn real dull , then Black. A mag wheel polish will bring it back. But adds some labor and more time to the process. When alu is bare, it does dull with time and use. Bare alu. does oxidize and darkens anyway you look at it. Polishing will be the ritual if you want to keep them shiny.
Not submersing it should work.. Or just dip for a minute then wipe. When done, always use a Dish soap and hot water and scrub to neutralize the Degreaser. It lingers if you don't.
I prefer to keep the inside anodized if I can. Best smooth shock action. Less sticktion.
Some ideas that worked for me in the past.
I just leave my shocks anodized as of late.
I wish Arrma used a Clear anodizing instead of Red. But Red is their trade mark shock color.

Edit.
You can use suitable size bottle cork to plug Both ends if you are so inclined.

 

[.AJ.]

Exactly as above, I’m using drain cleaner and it’s safe to use with plastic

 

[carckton driver]

idk what you guys are talking about, i love the red color. however on certain parts (like shocks) rocks and dirt just grind away at the anodizing making it look even more crappy than it would look with just bare metal (silver color). i hate the color silver, looks cheap and unfinished, but anodizing wearing off of parts looks even more crappy.

Don't let sit too long or the Alu. will turn real dull , then Black

whats the down side to letting it turn black? will it weaken the aluminum? will it "chip" off like normal anodizing would?
i would prefer black over silver shocks if they will stay looking that way.

 

[Couch_Bro]

I have done the 6s shocks but decided to do my 8s shocks and man they are gorgeous View attachment 174790

Yours look a little better than mine. I should’ve used a wire brush for the threads. Was still pretty easy though if you’re already taking your shocks apart.

It’s not a nice looking black. It’s a tarnished dirty look. I might try clear coating next time I have them off the rig.