Dear Castle Creations.

slick2500

If it ain't broke, you're doing it wrong.
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The issue isn't that the proper tape won't hold. I'm familiar with 3m VHT tapes and such that I know will work.
The issue is poor engineering in my opinion.
Also the fact that in tight spaces when using such a large ESC the last thing you want to do is try to slide a blade or a scraper underneath the f&^king thing running the risk of damaging it or other parts in the process.

I'm not uglying up my build with cable ties when I've spent so much time and money to to put this build together.

View attachment 89286
4339789.jpg
 

Lukas412

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The issue isn't that the proper tape won't hold. I'm familiar with 3m VHT tapes and such that I know will work.
The issue is poor engineering in my opinion.
Also the fact that in tight spaces when using such a large ESC the last thing you want to do is try to slide a blade or a scraper underneath the f&^king thing running the risk of damaging it or other parts in the process.

I'm not uglying up my build with cable ties when I've spent so much time and money to to put this build together.

View attachment 89286

What bulkheads are those?
 

Jerry-rigged

Have you seen my LVC?
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We'll take it into consideration. We are a very small team and might not have the resources to tackle it anytime soon. I would think that for your setup you could make a aluminum or plastic plate larger than the ESC to screw down to the chassis and then VHB tape the ESC down to the plate. That way you wouldn't have to scrape the ESC off the chassis and could remove it with a few screws.
I've done this, but on my cheap Toro ESC. I used a fiberglass plate instead of a aluminum plate, because I am cheap. :p
 

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I will check when I receive mine (hopefully in the next week or so as postage to the UK from US is slow right now for obvious reasons) hopefully your mfg adjustments will be applied to my unit, in the case the caps are damaged during the mfg process I don’t feel comfortable running the unit in case of further damage.

what is castles recommendation in this circumstance?
If you inspect it and see damage on the caps take a look at this post:
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/dear-castle-creations.25151/#post-345589
If the caps look like picture 1 they are actually damaged and our process change has failed.
If the caps look like picture 2, our process change still failed but the cap is not damaged and is fine to run. All that is messed up in picture 2 is the cover, the actual body of the cap is not damaged at all. Adding a washer to space the fan cover will keep that from happening during running. Production is supposed to be inspecting units after assembly to look for that issue and there shouldn't be contact from the factory but running with the screws next to the cap could cause the cap to move from vibration and take damage.
 

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Hi Robert,

I have yet to Contact the team with regards this issue I highlighted but no need to change the manufactory process to pre drill at angles in programming cycle or manufacture process, Just use 2mm shorter screw? The cost and time would be sucnificant. Imo

Not trying to be an a## but the caps are not moving anywhere imo due to the good solid base they are set in along withe pcb and heatsink.

Just send out 13mm screws or 3mm shoulders with the esc and ask the consumer to change as a product emprovement.... Cheap as chips and simple
 
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rss1978

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If you inspect it and see damage on the caps take a look at this post:
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/dear-castle-creations.25151/#post-345589
If the caps look like picture 1 they are actually damaged and our process change has failed.
If the caps look like picture 2, our process change still failed but the cap is not damaged and is fine to run. All that is messed up in picture 2 is the cover, the actual body of the cap is not damaged at all. Adding a washer to space the fan cover will keep that from happening during running. Production is supposed to be inspecting units after assembly to look for that issue and there shouldn't be contact from the factory but running with the screws next to the cap could cause the cap to move from vibration and take damage.
Many thanks for response, I will update once I receive the unit.
Many thanks for response, I will update once I receive the unit.
But in any case the cap would only leak once the esc is run at temp, so out of the box there is no way to tell the level of damage.
 

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This is now out of my hands and should be dealt with castle but I would have a look how far these screws protrude prior to use to prevent the exact issue highlighted to be present in your esc imo.
 

rss1978

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This is now out of my hands and should be dealt with castle but I would have a look how far these screws protrude prior to use to prevent the exact issue highlighted to be present in your esc imo.
Once I get it I will post pics whats it’s like out of the box.
 

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Having this made at a local shop.
6061 Aluminum.
Hopefully it all works out right so don't take any measurements to heart until I get the piece.
I was going to put set screws in the side to hold the ESC inside it but I'm a little scared of damaging the esc when they are tightened. I will tape (Ugh) the ESC into the mount and then bolt the mount to the chassis.
Once I get it I will also drill some holes in it or Dremel out material to save on weight.
Should be done in about a week.
Sent this to the shop.

Mike 1.jpg
 

rss1978

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Having this made at a local shop.
6061 Aluminum.
Hopefully it all works out right so don't take any measurements to heart until I get the piece.
I was going to put set screws in the side to hold the ESC inside it but I'm a little scared of damaging the esc when they are tightened. I will tape (Ugh) the ESC into the mount and then bolt the mount to the chassis.
Once I get it I will also drill some holes in it or Dremel out material to save on weight.
Should be done in about a week.
Sent this to the shop.

View attachment 89767
Looking forward to seeing the end result! My ESC is still stuck with US customs I think :(
 

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rss1978

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Having this made at a local shop.
6061 Aluminum.
Hopefully it all works out right so don't take any measurements to heart until I get the piece.
I was going to put set screws in the side to hold the ESC inside it but I'm a little scared of damaging the esc when they are tightened. I will tape (Ugh) the ESC into the mount and then bolt the mount to the chassis.
Once I get it I will also drill some holes in it or Dremel out material to save on weight.
Should be done in about a week.
Sent this to the shop.

View attachment 89767
I was planning to make a bottom plate then have some sort of aluminium posts and brace to hold the ecu down, that way you don’t need any double sided tape.
I was planning to make a bottom plate then have some sort of aluminium posts and brace to hold the ecu down, that way you don’t need any double sided tape.
But can’t do anything until I have the unit in hand
 

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I was planning to make a bottom plate then have some sort of aluminium posts and brace to hold the ecu down, that way you don’t need any double sided tape.

But can’t do anything until I have the unit in hand
Once I get it I am going to look and see how it is. I might drill and tap holes on top of it to accept a hold down ring. Problem is the top trim piece is plastic on the ESC and you can't remove it cause the fan screws onto it.
 

rss1978

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Can someone pls advise a good replacement fan from the stock one?

what are the exact fan dimensions?
 

Turbobrick

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The fan is 40mm x 40mm variant your looking for a 6v fan if you use the esc to power it to take use of the thermal circuit so it will cut in when needed...

You can also power it from your lipo via the jst balancing lead if you desire this will give you the option to run upto 24v fans if you want from upto a 6s battery.

There are a few brands out there that folk use to cool there motors these will work good and profile of the yeah racing fans should be good overall unless you want to go all out with 40x40x28mm with high flow rates on 12v

What use is the esc under?
 

Turbobrick

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It's always the same when folk list fans for RC they give you a high rpm yet no flow rate or static pressure most of them have low static pressure that the need moved off the mount to keep flow.... These fans have such a high static pressure the are like hockey pucks
 

Turbobrick

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Sorry Jim that wasn't at you it's the manufacturers well sellers showing lack off data and show the rpm as its a bit like it's a area to compair to others one looks awesome others poor yet its one of those don't judge a book by its cover. Having a doller fan on a 8 doller chassis makes no sense to me.

They should include the flow rate and static pressure like it is on computer based fans
 
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