Dear Castle Creations.

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Yeah it will be an upgrade over the stock fan, be sure to check the screws after mounting that they are not touching the caps.
 
Speaking of the Mamba xlx I was chafing the fan on one of them and came across a cap that looks to have leaked, so I checked the other and same issue. Anyone else seen this or checked theirs recently.

One esc has only seen 4 and 6s the other 6 and 8s a couple of times. View attachment 89224View attachment 89225
That cap looks like moisture collected on it. Modern electrolytic filter caps don't have liquid in them, not at this size anyway, they are constructed of metalyzed polypropylene film/foil. In the 50's sure, today no.
 
Most esc's don't have mounting tabs so why is this a big deal? If tabs are added to Castle esc's, most people will have to cut them off anyways. I've been using 3m automotive tape for securing esc's for over a decade without issue. If you have access to a 3d printer, there are a few mounting plate options that will work, but you'll still need to use tape to secure the esc to the plate.

The mmx8s runs extremely cool so a 12v fan is not needed. If you don't believe me, check your data logs. Once you lose a fan blade on the esc fan, throw a yr signal 10 fan in and call it a day.
 
It’s on the way, hopefully will be delivered this week!
 

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Having this made at a local shop.
6061 Aluminum.
Hopefully it all works out right so don't take any measurements to heart until I get the piece.
I was going to put set screws in the side to hold the ESC inside it but I'm a little scared of damaging the esc when they are tightened. I will tape (Ugh) the ESC into the mount and then bolt the mount to the chassis.
Once I get it I will also drill some holes in it or Dremel out material to save on weight.
Should be done in about a week.
Sent this to the shop.

View attachment 89767
Just picked up my MMX 8s today. Are you drilling from the bottom of your chasis? Then putting screws though the bottom up into the chasis plate you are having made?
 
I’m going to make a aluminium plate that screws onto the plastic box, then have countersunk screws standing upright from the reverse side of the plate and fabricate braces to hold down the esc, should be a solid fix!
What gears are you guys going to run, I’m planning to start with stock spur and pinion with the 1717, any thoughts?
 
I’m going to make a aluminium plate that screws onto the plastic box, then have countersunk screws standing upright from the reverse side of the plate and fabricate braces to hold down the esc, should be a solid fix!
What gears are you guys going to run, I’m planning to start with stock spur and pinion with the 1717, any thoughts?
What plastic box?
 
So keep in my mind I'm half blind. Lol. I have an eye disease and depth is one then it messes with.
This is the mount.
I should have gone over it with the Dremel first to smooth it out but I didn't. It's going to eat at me cause it looks real crappy.
He gave me a perfect piece with perfect corners and perfect fit and I ended up thinking I could grind it on the table grinder and add some rounds and crap.
But I ended up turning it into an uneven mess. You can also see the holes I drilled are off center cause I can't see the lines properly. But at least nobody will see those. Lol
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Oh well lesson learned.
Either way my dimensions are all correct in the diagram I posted above but the inside corners need to be straight and not rounded or it won't fit.
After thinking about it for a bit what I really need is a belt grinder on the table to fix everything not a stupid grinder like I tried to use. Dumbass!!!
 
So keep in my mind I'm half blind. Lol. I have an eye disease and depth is one then it messes with.
This is the mount.
I should have gone over it with the Dremel first to smooth it out but I didn't. It's going to eat at me cause it looks real crappy.
He gave me a perfect piece with perfect corners and perfect fit and I ended up thinking I could grind it on the table grinder and add some rounds and crap.
But I ended up turning it into an uneven mess. You can also see the holes I drilled are off center cause I can't see the lines properly. But at least nobody will see those. LolView attachment 90599View attachment 90600View attachment 90601View attachment 90602View attachment 90603
Oh well lesson learned.
Either way my dimensions are all correct in the diagram I posted above but the inside corners need to be straight and not rounded or it won't fit.
After thinking about it for a bit what I really need is a belt grinder on the table to fix everything not a stupid grinder like I tried to use. Dumbass!!!
So how are you attaching to the aluminum chassis? Are you reusing the same 4 chassis holes and adding a nut?
 
I'm using the 2 holes facing the rear and making 2 ore holes in the chassis. Making them all 4mm and countersinking the chassis. I'll then lock down the mount with lock nuts.
 
Being new to this hobby I am honestly shocked by how often the electronics smoke/catch fire. So far Ive seen 2 ESC's burst into flames, and one servo smoke ( 3 other die). I did not expect this. I'm barely 2 months into this...
 
Being new to this hobby I am honestly shocked by how often the electronics smoke/catch fire. So far Ive seen 2 ESC's burst into flames, and one servo smoke ( 3 other die). I did not expect this. I'm barely 2 months into this...

Just 10-12 years ago 3s and brushless was considered to be UGE! 4s Tekin in a buggy was the absolute SHIZZNIT! Now you have manufacturers pumping out ESC's that are the same size as a 3s ESC 10 years ago that can handle 6s. Things get hot, things melt, things blow up. 8s? Now your at 1/3 the U.S. voltage that comes outa the wall in RC lol..

It's never a matter of how, its a matter of WHEN for everything hobby grade RC. @Turbobrick Cheers! Have a glass of Macallan!
 
Got to hand it to Castle Creations for their first class customer service!
2 replacement escs on route.
 
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