Kraton Dear Diff wont stop making loud clicking noise!

[TalionSWB]

The rear diff was making a loud clicking noise and turns out the 43T Main spiral gear (#AR310497) was missing 3 teeth. I installed a new gear and put in the tekno shims om the outside of the diff cup between the bearing and the diff case but the noise is still there!

The gear this spiral gear connects to which is connected to the rear drive shaft is no damaged. My truck has been offline now for almost 2 months because of this problem.

If anyone has had any experience or knows what the noise is please help.

 

[Maneman2005]

Have u taken the diff apart and checked the gears inside??

 

[TalionSWB]

Have u taken the diff apart and checked the gears inside??

Yes I have taken the all three Diffs apart, degreased them, and inspected every single gear, pin, and shim inside and they are all in perfect condition. The noise is more to do with the external large gear.

 

[Maneman2005]

Yes I have taken the all three Diffs apart, degreased them, and inspected every single gear, pin, and shim inside and they are all in perfect condition. The noise is more to do with the external large gear.

Craziest thing i thought my diff was clicking too when i first got mine and it was the rear dog bone. But i took the center and rear diff out inspected them and found nothing. My next time running my dog bone popped out and did damage to the cup. Sooo after replacing it i was getting the same noise so i investigated again and found the there was to much play for the dogbone. They had the cups sitting to for back giving the dogbone way to much space to play. I adjusted it and now no clicking or dogbone pops

 

[TalionSWB]

Craziest thing i thought my diff was clicking too when i first got mine and it was the rear dog bone. But i took the center and rear diff out inspected them and found nothing. My next time running my dog bone popped out and did damage to the cup. Sooo after replacing it i was getting the same noise so i investigated again and found the there was to much play for the dogbone. They had the cups sitting to for back giving the dogbone way to much space to play. I adjusted it and now no clicking or dogbone pops

Thats not something i had thought of. I will try adjusting the cup so there ia less play in it and see what happens

 

[Michael323]

Thats not something i had thought of. I will try adjusting the cup so there ia less play in it and see what happens

How do I go about adjusting the cup to reduce play?
Having same issue. Thanks

 

[Gloggen]

I have the same issue, but in the front.
Checked diff, looks great.

However, one of the screws holding the lid of the gearbox case is stripped, I wonder if that might be the issue - maybe the lid doesn’t hold the diff case down properly?
I tried CA glue on the screw, but it didn’t help much. I’ve now ordered a new gearbox case..

Hope you find what’s up, this is driving me slightly crazy.

 

[Michael323]

I have the same issue, but in the front.
Checked diff, looks great.

However, one of the screws holding the lid of the gearbox case is stripped, I wonder if that might be the issue - maybe the lid doesn’t hold the diff case down properly?
I tried CA glue on the screw, but it didn’t help much. I’ve now ordered a new gearbox case..

Hope you find what’s up, this is driving me slightly crazy.

Turned out I broke a tooth on the outdrive (gear meshed with diff gear) replaced it with one I had from my V2 Kraton; only for the clicking to return soon after. Taking a look now. Could be the other diff with same issue. Let's find out Haha.

 

[Gloggen]

Hah - maybe I figured it out. I put the 16x13 shim between the gearbox housing and the diff casing on the wrong side.
On the correct side it’ll tighten the mesh, the way I did it it actually made it looser

I hope i haven’t broken the diff spur and pinion in the process. I’ve ordered some 16x13 shims to tighten the mesh even more just in case. Will change the gearbox case to get rid of the stripped screws anyway.

Fingers crossed, and sorry for any incorrect lingo ;P

 

[Michael323]

Hah - maybe I figured it out. I put the 16x13 shim between the gearbox housing and the diff casing on the wrong side.
On the correct side it’ll tighten the mesh, the way I did it it actually made it looser

I hope i haven’t broken the diff spur and pinion in the process. I’ve ordered some 16x13 shims to tighten the mesh even more just in case. Will change the gearbox case to get rid of the stripped screws anyway.

Fingers crossed, and sorry for any incorrect lingo ;P

That's crazy cause I did the same thing this morning and it worked perfectly. Had 2 shims on correct side already but added a third and it's fine now. 3 on gear side and none on other side

 

[Gloggen]

Awesome, great to hear!

After moving the shim to the correct side and adding one, its definitely a lot better, but I still hear it during hard accelerations and braking. Will have to add another shim to see if it works better.

I looked at the teeth again and they look a little rounded out, I’m guessing I’ll have to replace the pinion and spur at some point.

 

[Jerry-rigged]

What I have seen - when I lose a tooth or three on the main ring gear, the diff pinion / input gear also need to be replaced. To a casual inspection, it often looks OK, but clean it up, and hold it next to a new diff pinion, and I could see the tops of the teeth showed wear. After that first one, I learned to look for the "shark tooth" look of the teeth - that is a sure sign they are wearing out.

 

[dpricenator]

That stripped screw on the gear box lid was the cause of my CLICK under braking. Tore that car down 3 or 4 time before I found out that was what caused it.