Kraton Defenition of a good RC car?

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JvG

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Arrma RC's
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Hi,

i was thinking about the definition of a good rc car.
Of course it's personal: fast, durable, good looks, parts availability, where you drive it, price/quality, etc.

But i think i found the answer we can apply to all rc's:

The best rc car is the one that makes you buy more lipo's (or gas) because you are having a lot of fun with it and it won't break.

The Kraton is the first rc car that made me do that! Thanks to Arrma.

Any thoughts?
 
That is everything I have for the most part. Lol Minor breakage here and there, nothing I can't rig in my shed quick to get bashing again. Arrma says, "Don't Just Bash. Blast!".
 
Hi,

i was thinking about the definition of a good rc car.
Of course it's personal: fast, durable, good looks, parts availability, where you drive it, price/quality, etc.

But i think i found the answer we can apply to all rc's:

The best rc car is the one that makes you buy more lipo's (or gas) because you are having a lot of fun with it and it won't break.

The Kraton is the first rc car that made me do that! Thanks to Arrma.

Any thoughts?

For me it would have to be my LC Racing EMB-T, other than having a grub screw back out causing my diff pinion gear eat my crown gear and having a hub bearing explode it's been a beast. I haven't done any upgrades over what came in the box. I did add a T-Bone bumper for some extra protection to front though. Batteries for it are $8-$15. Parts are dirt cheap as well.

Sadly my Outcast didn't even make it through it's first pack without bending both front shock shafts and both front cvds. Almost every part has been replaced at least once. The only things still stock are the roll cage, front and side mud guards, turnbuckles/tie rods, front shock tower, rear hubs, steering bellcrank and the aluminum plate that goes on top of the steering bellcrank.
 
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A good RC is one that I enjoy running, and can normally make it to the end of a bash day with no issues AND I can get parts for...

^^^This times a million. Add easy to work on too.
 
Have you ever torn apart a Summit to replace all the screws and bearings? Hours of work.
Been there with the e-revo. Drove it for 5 min, broke the rear diff. Drove it for 5 min, broke the front diff bearings. Drove it for 5 min, broke the front diff. Drove it for 5 min, broke the rear diff bearings Drove it for 5 min, broke an axle. Drove it for 5 min, broke a wheel bearing. Drove it for 5 min, broke the center diff. :banghead: :spam: :dead:
I almost killed myself for selling the Tamiya TT02-b. Sold the revo and bought a Kraton, saved my life
 
I haven't broke anything on the Summit in a long time, just still have to tear it apart for maintenance.
 
I built 2 erevos, an aluminum summit and a losi 5ive T all from a bare chassis. The summit has a lot of servos and working parts for the gears and diffs. It does take a couple hours. As far as a definition of a good rc car. It's the one that shows up at your door and it doesn't say Traxxas on the box.
 
I built 2 erevos, an aluminum summit and a losi 5ive T all from a bare chassis. The summit has a lot of servos and working parts for the gears and diffs. It does take a couple hours. As far as a definition of a good rc car. It's the one that shows up at your door and it doesn't say Traxxas on the box.
LOL....Traxxas hating. I’ve an E-Revo 2.0 and not broken anything...yet but it doesn’t get much air. Loving my v3 Kraton though, it handles so much better then the E-Revo.
 
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