Kraton Did Arrma need to redesign the diffs in the EXB?

[Notorious J]

I'm new to the hobby, recently acquiring an EXB and previously owning a Kraton 6s V4.

I took apart the diffs (front, center, and rear) to put fresh oil in before ever running it. Glad I did, since there was almost no oil in them. My questions are - are the Mugen Seiki gears better (assuming, yes) and why? Which set should I go with?

I appreciate any help.

If you mean shims, than know that the V4 ones won't fit the EXB. The shaft diameter of the outdrives is larger on the EXB, so those Mugen's everyone uses on the V4 won't fit.

 

[MrTitanium]

Ask any of the long time members here on the forum, and they'll tell you that I'm the mega destroyer of parts that they didn't think could be broken....

??Yep... this guy is a level-8 savage. ?

If you mean shims, than know that the V4 ones won't fit the EXB. The shaft diameter of the outdrives is larger on the EXB, so those Mugen's everyone uses on the V4 won't fit.

Mugen E2243 are the (6mm) shims needed for the EXBs.

 

[Viking]

If you mean shims, than know that the V4 ones won't fit the EXB. The shaft diameter of the outdrives is larger on the EXB, so those Mugen's everyone uses on the V4 won't fit.

To "be frank", I'm not sure if I even worded my question correctly. I was just quoting what @MrTitanium mentioned in this post; seeing that he knows a lot more about the hobby and referenced the 'Mugen Seiki' products, I figured I would ask more about them. But I'm not sure if that was gears or shims. ?

 

[MrTitanium]

I'm new to the hobby, recently acquiring an EXB and previously owning a Kraton 6s V4.

I took apart the diffs (front, center, and rear) to put fresh oil in before ever running it. Glad I did, since there was almost no oil in them. My questions are - are the Mugen Seiki gears better (assuming, yes) and why? Which set should I go with?

I appreciate any help.

For the V4-series:
Shims: E0206
Output gears (18T): E0230
Planetary gears (10T): C0230
Outdrive shafts: E0228 (or similar)
Diff cups: ARA220050 or AON1101. I prefer the Arrma units.

Costs a few dollars but well worth it once assembled properly.

 

[Notorious J]

For the V4-series:
Shims: E0206
Output gears (18T): E0230
Planetary gears (10T): C0230
Outdrive shafts: E0228 (or similar)
Diff cups: ARA220050 or AON1101. I prefer the Arrma units.

Costs a few dollars but well worth it once assembled properly.

View attachment 96600View attachment 96601

Daaamn, I need to catch up on my forum reading. I had no idea that there was an option for dif and drive parts other than Arrma stock. Bye bye money

 

[Viking]

For the V4-series:
Shims: E0206
Output gears (18T): E0230
Planetary gears (10T): C0230
Outdrive shafts: E0228 (or similar)
Diff cups: ARA220050 or AON1101. I prefer the Arrma units.

Costs a few dollars but well worth it once assembled properly.

View attachment 96600

Damn that is a pretty diff. Would I be able to use this setup in my EXB? I notice that you mention you prefer the Arrma units, are you referring to the diff cups? I have two unopened AON1101 diff cups, but was planning on returning them, since I was unsure if they would fit the EXB properly.

 

[MrTitanium]

Daaamn, I need to catch up on my forum reading. I had no idea that there was an option for dif and drive parts other than Arrma stock. Bye bye money

The research behind it cost time too, but I had fun doing it. Pay it forward✌?

Damn that is a pretty diff. Would I be able to use this setup in my EXB? I notice that you mention you prefer the Arrma units, are you referring to the diff cups? I have two unopened AON1101 diff cups, but was planning on returning them, since I was unsure if they would fit the EXB properly.

Nope... the AON1101/ARA220050 are not compatible with the EXB 29mm units. But give it time as I’m sure someone out there is going to release some alloy units soon.

 

[Viking]

The research behind it cost time too, but I had fun doing it. Pay it forward✌?


Nope... the AON1101/ARA220050 are not compatible with the EXB 29mm units. But give it time as I’m sure someone out there is going to release some alloy units soon.

Cool. Thanks for all the help.

 

[MrTitanium]

Most welcome?

 

[jym73]

Did we really need LSD diffs?

No.

Would you have still bought it if the diffs were the same as the RTR?

No. I mean, i have no issue with the RTR diff., but the new diff. is a part of what made me bought the EXB.

Arrma just need to remove the diff. plates and put even stronger gear inside and it would be the end of this story.

The chassi braces are 6061 thougt they were 7075 until today kinda sucks

I have no issue with the Voltage hobby brace and they are 6061.

 

[TpPartsRcXtreme]

Think i cracked 1 or 2 sungears, due to stock crosspin snapped..but that was ages ago..

How eva, the EXB,i would not run 1cm without the supporting LSD plates for the Sungears..the underneeth (spelling ) cross design with its lip says it all if LSD plats aint used..hope they arrive in a few days now

 

[Dscracing1320]

I've noticed also that I've chipped several exb crown gears. Even when shimmed. Blew a front lsd diff. I've had good luck with my built v4 diffs. Last night I added a lsd exb diff to the center of my m2c truck and its a huge performance increase over the 200k and 500k open center diffs. Front and rear v4 diffs I think are just fine if not better when built.

 

[Surchaufeur]

I've noticed also that I've chipped several exb crown gears. Even when shimmed. Blew a front lsd diff. I've had good luck with my built v4 diffs. Last night I added a lsd exb diff to the center of my m2c truck and its a huge performance increase over the 200k and 500k open center diffs. Front and rear v4 diffs I think are just fine if not better when built.

Pictures? I personally cannot shim the gears tight enough in my rear diff?

 

[olds97_lss]

I've never split a sun gear in half and I had been running a Max6 with the 4092 motor. The diffs held up fine. Just my two cents.

I finally broke one. Shattered one of the sun gears and broke both pins. Was the first time I've pulled a diff and it wasn't to replace it because of the ring/pinion.

I haven't had great luck with the 6S diffs... Even when I ran 4S through it, I chewed up 3 of them in 6 months. When I went 6S, I fried another early on, then the arrma 2 piece cup saga I had, which ate another one. Then blew a bearing, fried another. Then had a diff cap screw strip because of the TBone skid plate ripping it out, fried another. I've replaced 7 of them in a year and a half. Every time I replace one, I replace all the bearings, take the diff apart, put in the oil I want, put the Mugen shims inside the diffs, shim the ring gear until there's almost no lash...

This is coming from a guy that bashed the snot out of a traxxas revo with plastic axles and tiny diffs for 3 years on 4S (like the first year of outcast life for me) and never did anything to the diffs in it but replace bearings once a season, and the outer slider axles on the rear. The old chassis carcass is in the closet with the original diffs that came in it! I don't drive them any different...

Now that I have the ERBEv2, I run 6S in it as well. I replaced the input/output bearings when I got it because it was used. I have abused that thing for a full year like it's a red headed step child that owes me money and still, no diff issues.

So, to answer your original question, did Arrma need to redesign them with LSD? No. Making the stronger ring/pinion/output pins is where they likely should have stopped. Why add complexity to it? With all the arrma guys that have the trucks, they know exactly what oil they want to run in them. Likely not many of us "wanted" LSD or the complexity that came with it.

 

[Jluther@becoinc]

Did Arrma really need to redesign the diffs in the EXB? Did we really need LSD diffs? Could they have just used stronger pins and upped the center diff fluid to 300k-500k?

I really think they tried to reinvent the wheel and it blew up in their faces. The V4 diffs are fine and people have run 8S through them without issue. I would have no issues if they used the same diffs.

What do you guys think, especially the people that bought one. Would you have still bought it if the diffs were the same as the RTR?

No absolutely not!

 

[Rcproponent]

No absolutely not!

To which question?

 

[Surchaufeur]

To which question?

If the diffs were the v4 he would have not buy the exb
I have good news

no restock for end of august like it was planned its going to be a miracle if hobbyshops receives any this week
At this point i might consider buying the v4 diff with mugen shims and sell it after i get the exb plates i know i will snap sun gears on the v4

 

[Jluther@becoinc]

To which question?

The last one. I would not have bought the truck if I had known the rear diff was going to fail. I have two fully upgraded kratons with all v4, hot racing, M2c, Max6 4985 and 4092 motors. My hope was to get stronger diffs and truck with much lower weight.
I am pretty sure I was nearly the first to post this issue. I would have waited for the exb with the mysterious fix that Arrma is supposedly working on. To my knowledge Arrma ain’t said squat about a fix. They sent me some plates and shims and then stopped responding. If y’all know of a response from Arrma please share. Call me butthurt for sure
I’m still working on the truck and it’s getting better thanks to everyone sharing on here.
I love all 10 of my Arrmas including this problem child ?

 

[Primarrma]

Yes apparently! I blew one up on stock electronics and the rest on the max 6 setup. Not really sure what it is though. I always do a thorough cleaning and shim everything up. Seems the pins will break and the sun gears follow. I had one where the pins broke but the sun gears survived. I know this won't go over well but I've had a Maxx for the same amount of time and have never blew a diff, thats on 4 and 6s. Not an argument for Traxxas, my Kraton is my favorite. Just a comparison, I drive and maintain them both the same.


Yes all that have broken were in plastic cups. I installed an aluminium on the center and its been perfect since. I added aluminum to the front and rear the last time they broke, so still working on those. So far so good. Thanks!

The only time I've broken a pin or sun gear was when I landed with reverse throttle on, I was trying to land a reverse flip.

 

[Kg77]

Did Arrma really need to redesign the diffs in the EXB? Did we really need LSD diffs? Could they have just used stronger pins and upped the center diff fluid to 300k-500k?

I really think they tried to reinvent the wheel and it blew up in their faces. The V4 diffs are fine and people have run 8S through them without issue. I would have no issues if they used the same diffs.

What do you guys think, especially the people that bought one. Would you have still bought it if the diffs were the same as the RTR?

I still would of bought it new diffs or not but I like the lsd idea. My opinion it’s a very minor issue that’s been blown out of proportion. The people that are scared to run the car because of it is hilarious to me. It’s a toy car lol even if it does strip the cost of repair is peanuts really. If they don’t try and keep advancing they’ll end up like hpi. Arrma is pretty good for addressing known issues they’ll get it sorted out.