Out of curiosity would be be better to shim behind the stub axle so that the stub is closer to the axle? Prevent drive shafts from popping out?
I "think" it can work, but here is the issue that makes it easier to do with the outside bearing and when hex.
If you add too many shims, you will have a HELL of a time getting the pin to go back into the wheel hex. If you add too many and cannot get the pin to go through smoothly, remove the wheel hex and take some off. Doing it the other way would be a pain once you have it all back together and see you add too many. Again, it could work never seen it that way.
This is why I like the Kyosho shim set...they come in .1, .2, .3, .4, etc. mm, so I can mix and match to get the right amount to get the exact fit.
As I stated earlier, these do not hit the outer bearing shield, so there are no worries about the Kyosho shims creating any heating issues for the bearing.
I got that directly from the good JonDilly1974 and that part number on how he did his. Not sure where he is, but a wealth of knowledge from that guy!

I miss him!
Are these better than the arrma shims same size? And is one pack of 10 enough? Thanks again
Kyosho is better, in my opinion, for the 6S wheels.
1. It does not hit the bearing shield
2. You can mix and match together the mm shims to get the correct spacing not all sides will be the same
3. The Arrma pack is what it is...no adjustments. Their sizes are set
4. I cannot own this knowledge. This tip was shared with me in 2020-21 by one of the best guys on those forums, JohnDilly1974, who shared it with all of us on a post of his. MIA for a while tho..
Yes, One pack is enough. the .1 .2 .3 etc. has 10 shims in a pack