Kraton Did some shimming

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Make sure that there is a small amount of clearance or else you risk burning a bearing.
 
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Out of curiosity would be be better to shim behind the stub axle so that the stub is closer to the axle? Prevent drive shafts from popping out?
 
Out of curiosity would be be better to shim behind the stub axle so that the stub is closer to the axle? Prevent drive shafts from popping out?

I "think" it can work, but here is the issue that makes it easier to do with the outside bearing and when hex.

If you add too many shims, you will have a HELL of a time getting the pin to go back into the wheel hex. If you add too many and cannot get the pin to go through smoothly, remove the wheel hex and take some off. Doing it the other way would be a pain once you have it all back together and see you add too many. Again, it could work never seen it that way.

This is why I like the Kyosho shim set...they come in .1, .2, .3, .4, etc. mm, so I can mix and match to get the right amount to get the exact fit.

As I stated earlier, these do not hit the outer bearing shield, so there are no worries about the Kyosho shims creating any heating issues for the bearing.

I got that directly from the good JonDilly1974 and that part number on how he did his. Not sure where he is, but a wealth of knowledge from that guy! (y) I miss him!

Are these better than the arrma shims same size? And is one pack of 10 enough? Thanks again

Kyosho is better, in my opinion, for the 6S wheels.

1. It does not hit the bearing shield
2. You can mix and match together the mm shims to get the correct spacing not all sides will be the same
3. The Arrma pack is what it is...no adjustments. Their sizes are set
4. I cannot own this knowledge. This tip was shared with me in 2020-21 by one of the best guys on those forums, JohnDilly1974, who shared it with all of us on a post of his. MIA for a while tho..

Yes, One pack is enough. the .1 .2 .3 etc. has 10 shims in a pack
 
These are the shims I would use on mine recommended by a well-known vet on this site.

They sit on the axle and do not touch the shielded bearing.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/kyosho-8x10mm-shim-set-10-kyo96644/p4067
Hmm, so 8x10mm shims do not touch the bearing at all and sit ONLY on the CVD axle edge? <<< This question does not make sense, disregard.

bloody hell lot of movement there my new kraton 6s exb has no movement at all no shims needed
Indeed. Rear has less movement, but still enough to get shimmed.
 
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Stainless steel shims are best, but I’ve designed and 3D printed spacers for this purpose. I’ve made them in a way that they act also as a shield to prevent dirt from entering bearings. Worked out flawlessly, I would say,
 
Hmm, so 8x10mm shims do not touch the bearing at all and sit ONLY on the CVD axle edge?


Indeed. Rear has less movement, but still enough to get shimmed.
yes your right I've just had a look (y)
 
@hobo Mhm, I see. Then it feels like my shimming is not correct. So the correct way of doing it is version B, as on the picture?

Disregard. Picture deleted. My question did not make sense.
 
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Hmm, so 8x10mm shims do not touch the bearing at all and sit ONLY on the CVD axle edge?


Indeed. Rear has less movement, but still enough to get shimmed.

Yes Sir.... let me share a pic
 
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@Barmaleus

For my family here, I took my Fireteam and wheel hex apart to show how those shims go over the axle. I use them on my 6S bashers.

1739575300259.webp


I put two on the axle from Kyosho, but I already have one installed that is right up the bear if you look closely at the pic
1739575343727.webp

1739575432712.webp
 
More pic if anyone says there is an issue with the old bearing... I got a new bearing

New bearing and new Kyosoh shim right on the bearing
1739576092517.webp



I moved the bearing back to show the shim
1739576136134.webp
 
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