Notorious Did the "Tee" nut battery tray mod

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Crewchief227

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Arrma RC's
  1. Notorious
Hey, so I've seen another member as well as @bicketybam do this mod as well. Basically you replace some of you tray anchor screws from plastic to these
61Jy4dK7yoL._SX425_.jpg


So they look like this? (actually I'm going to add a 4th one)
20191210_073611.jpg


To do this you need M3 "t" or tee nuts, 4 each.
Counter sunk M3x10mm screws 7 ea.
C-clamp 6" or bigger
10mm or similar socket
Stiff cardboard or preferably 1mm plastic sheet (to cover bottom of tray)
4.5mm or larger drill bit
Dremel with grinding bit

The reason for the c-clamp & socket is to push them in on the two holes that pass thru to the mud guards, you'll be adding two more anchor points that attach the mud guards and battery tray.
20191210_073631.jpg

On the bottom they will pass thru, you need the socket so the stem can pass thru when you clamp.

See the bottom mount under the velcro, that's where you'll drill a hole large enough for the shank to pass thru.

20191210_073714.jpg


You'll need to dremel off the two middle screw mounts on the mud guard. The new t nut shank will replace these.

Final step is to cut a protective sheet to cover the bottom of the tray. These are metal, and you wanna take no chance they come in contact with your battery.
20191210_073848.jpg


And you now have the strongest mount you've ever felt. ??
Definitely worth the $3 in materials & 1hr. fabrication time.
 
Hey, so I've seen another member as well as @bicketybam do this mod as well. Basically you replace some of you tray anchor screws from plastic to these
View attachment 56900

So they look like this? (actually I'm going to add a 4th one)
View attachment 56901

To do this you need M3 "t" or tee nuts, 4 each.
Counter sunk M3x10mm screws 7 ea.
C-clamp 6" or bigger
10mm or similar socket
Stiff cardboard or preferably 1mm plastic sheet (to cover bottom of tray)
4.5mm or larger drill bit
Dremel with grinding bit

The reason for the c-clamp & socket is to push them in on the two holes that pass thru to the mud guards, you'll be adding two more anchor points that attach the mud guards and battery tray.
View attachment 56902
On the bottom they will pass thru, you need the socket so the stem can pass thru when you clamp.

See the bottom mount under the velcro, that's where you'll drill a hole large enough for the shank to pass thru.

View attachment 56903

You'll need to dremel off the two middle screw mounts on the mud guard. The new t nut shank will replace these.

Final step is to cut a protective sheet to cover the bottom of the tray. These are metal, and you wanna take no chance they come in contact with your battery.
View attachment 56904

And you now have the strongest mount you've ever felt. ??
Definitely worth the $3 in materials & 1hr. fabrication time.

Nice sharing the details. When I first started reading I wondered about how to cover the metal in the tray bottom. Glad you addressed this and thought of cutting some yoga mat or even using a couple layers Gorilla tape. I also have some non slip, stick on material that could work. Got it from slow boat for quadcopter battery placement.
 
Nice sharing the details. When I first started reading I wondered about how to cover the metal in the tray bottom. Glad you addressed this and thought of cutting some yoga mat or even using a couple layers Gorilla tape. I also have some non slip, stick on material that could work. Got it from slow boat for quadcopter battery placement.
Yeah I love the foam Hobbywing packs stuff in. If I could just get sheets of that I'd be Golden.?
 
There you are, couldn't remember your name, but still given credit where credits due.?

When I think about it, if I do it over I might just chop off the spikes and tire glue, or jb Weld them in place. Then feather off the edges, and get the same battery foam kit from my RC8B3.1E. That would be how I fab them if I did it for others. ?
 
When I did mine, I didn't add any additional ones, I just replaced the 4 or whatever my v2 outcast used by drilling them out so the thing would fit in the post that existed. I had a hard time getting the little prongs to sink into the plastic without totally deforming the post in the process. Ended up heating it with a soldering iron as I pressed on it, then the barbs sunk in. I had to cut half the nut off on the ones close to the sides of the box.

I never had an issue with my tray ejecting, but after seeing @bicketybam have the issue more than once, I decided to do it as a preventative thing anyway. Would hate for my bash day to be cut short because of that, especially considering where I drive it the hardest is an hour drive away.
 
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