Diff case

[Mattyd926]

So I took a hot racing diff case, HR 50t center spool , Arrma diff rebuild kit. All brand new. Built it as specified and attempted a dry run. Thank god I did. Anytime I tightened the screws down it locked the diff. Like the diff case is too short if that makes sense. I took a reg carrier whatever you choose to call it . Reg as in Arrma plastic. Butter. So only difference is the case. What gives. And I also tried it with shims, without shims, and same results locked up. I was wondering what was everyone else’s experience with these diff cases. I bought a red aluminum Arrma diff case in the past and it goes together a little different but no problems there.

 

[Kingleo619]

I thought no difference just other side is open, I have hr diffs

 

[Notorious J]

So I took a hot racing diff case, HR 50t center spool , Arrma diff rebuild kit. All brand new. Built it as specified and attempted a dry run. Thank god I did. Anytime I tightened the screws down it locked the diff. Like the diff case is too short if that makes sense. I took a reg carrier whatever you choose to call it . Reg as in Arrma plastic. Butter. So only difference is the case. What gives. And I also tried it with shims, without shims, and same results locked up. I was wondering what was everyone else’s experience with these diff cases. I bought a red aluminum Arrma diff case in the past and it goes together a little different but no problems there.

I only run the aluminum cups in the center difs, plastic cups front and rear. The only reason I thought to use aluminium was for the extra wear that the center dif experiences from debris that gets inside the trucks. Not sure how it would benefit inside the gear boxes.

 

[olds97_lss]

Did you forget to put the gasket between the ring gear and cup?

 

[Outcastblxnut]

Or try two gaskets

 

[Mattyd926]

Wow . Ya think . Maybe . I didn’t put gasket in when dry fitting. Could that really do that

 

[olds97_lss]

Wow . Ya think . Maybe . I didn’t put gasket in when dry fitting. Could that really do that

Yes.

When running the arrma alloy 2 piece cups, I had to remove a gasket, but it still had enough room inside for the gears to spin fine with the mugen shims on all points. I had to remove a gasket so I could shim the ring/pinion properly. I sealed the cap end with RTV and so far, it's holding up.

Regardless, the gasket is like 1mm or so, which is a lot when talking about gear mesh on these small gears.

 

[benny514]

Bit of a bump...
just curious as to what can cause this wear on my arrma metal diff case, anyone got any ideas, thanks in advance ??

 

[Kingleo619]

That my fry was caused by a rock, that got wedges in between the chassis and fell out.
That’s the center diff yeah?

 

[Mike-NLD]

Bit of a bump...
just curious as to what can cause this wear on my arrma metal diff case, anyone got any ideas, thanks in advance ??
View attachment 82593View attachment 82594

I see teeth.. Must come from the input gear..

 

[benny514]

That my fry was caused by a rock, that got wedges in between the chassis and fell out.
That’s the center diff yeah?

nah man rear diff

 

[MrTitanium]

Bit of a bump...
just curious as to what can cause this wear on my arrma metal diff case, anyone got any ideas, thanks in advance ??

Teeth marks indicate use in front or rear diff. Diff cup isn’t running true either and/or pinion depth is set too low (deep).

 

[olds97_lss]

My front diff looked like that yesterday. As I backed the screw out of the diff cup on the pinion, I found that it was loose. I'm assuming it being loose is allowing the pinion to float in further than it should and allowing it to mar up the side of the diff cup. I had to replace the bulkhead, so I replaced the bearings as well for the pinion, cleaned the shaft, screw and put orange locktite on it. Probably need a torch the next time I remove it.