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Yep, basically thicker fluids act like different levels of a locker. Heavier = more lock.Well see you all knew I was full of it and lying when I said one last question ......
So one other final last question for you all , is adding thicker diff fluid in front F/C/R diffs mainly just getting rid of the effects of it working like an LSD and thus not making it a LSD to some degree? So your kind of changing the type of diff or more mimicking a different type of differential?
You got it@Hammer Down thanks, so mainly it is just a personal preference on how you like the vehicle handling and what not. The diff weights don't make it better or worse for breaking just the matter of how you prefer the vehicle to handle or drive really.
At first I thought it was more to do with preventing it to break thus the higher diff fluid along with the shimming, etc.
Making a bit more sense now.
Check out AMain……they have fluids now !!! decent selection, not all inclusive,but IN STOCKRight now with diff fluid being so hard to come by, brand doesn’t really matter as long as you get the weights you need!
You mentioned above… 500,000, 1M and 20M is for the 1/5 scale, would be way too thick for a 6s rig…
for the 6s exb I like... 20k front 200k center and 20k rear (open rear diff setup with optional shim kit) ARA311028
hope this helps
@Sargent_Horse Gotcha, so the Front and Rear should spin opposite of each other when I spin in (i.e. one clockwise the other clockwise). Can putting to much diff oil in would that cause an issue and binding?Out drives should spin freely. Rock solid means something is bound or not installed correctly. When you spin one out drive, the opposite side will spin the opposite direction.
Agreed, lots of people shim the crapola out of it and think it will loosen up, they do not. Needs to spin freely after assembly, with minimal play.
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