Kraton Diff Fluid Recommendation (weight and brand)?

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One last question, how much of that grease are you suppose to coat or put on the diffs, gears etc before you put it back in the bulkhead?
 
Only on the large gear and I use a small bead all around. Excess will just fling off. By all means turn it a couple of times, so you have sufficient on the input gear and the main one.
Some people do more to trap any dirt that might get in. Never thought that was useful as I end up opening them any 5-10 runs anyway, but YMMV.
I use a syringe to do it, to give you an idea on the bead size, maybe pencil core diameter.

Take a look at ~ 12 min, didn't look at the entire video, but that amount is more than enough.

 
I just use my finger and spread some on the crown, spin a little to get non greased crown showing and put some more, repeat until all the way around. Nothing fancy just make sure the whole crown has grease.
 
Well see you all knew I was full of it and lying when I said one last question ...... :ROFLMAO:
So one other final last question for you all ;), is adding thicker diff fluid in front F/C/R diffs mainly just getting rid of the effects of it working like an LSD and thus not making it a LSD to some degree? So your kind of changing the type of diff or more mimicking a different type of differential?
 
Well see you all knew I was full of it and lying when I said one last question ...... :ROFLMAO:
So one other final last question for you all ;), is adding thicker diff fluid in front F/C/R diffs mainly just getting rid of the effects of it working like an LSD and thus not making it a LSD to some degree? So your kind of changing the type of diff or more mimicking a different type of differential?
Yep, basically thicker fluids act like different levels of a locker. Heavier = more lock.
 
@Hammer Down thanks, so mainly it is just a personal preference on how you like the vehicle handling and what not. The diff weights don't make it better or worse for breaking just the matter of how you prefer the vehicle to handle or drive really.

At first I thought it was more to do with preventing it to break thus the higher diff fluid along with the shimming, etc.

Making a bit more sense now.
 
@Hammer Down thanks, so mainly it is just a personal preference on how you like the vehicle handling and what not. The diff weights don't make it better or worse for breaking just the matter of how you prefer the vehicle to handle or drive really.

At first I thought it was more to do with preventing it to break thus the higher diff fluid along with the shimming, etc.

Making a bit more sense now.
You got it 👊😎
 
Right now with diff fluid being so hard to come by, brand doesn’t really matter as long as you get the weights you need!

You mentioned above… 500,000, 1M and 20M is for the 1/5 scale, would be way too thick for a 6s rig…

for the 6s exb I like... 20k front 200k center and 20k rear (open rear diff setup with optional shim kit) ARA311028

hope this helps 👍🏻✌🏻😎
Check out AMain……they have fluids now !!! decent selection, not all inclusive,but IN STOCK

brand is Flash Point…..fwiw
 
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So finally got diff oil in the mail 👍 so l and I went and started to assemble the F/C/R diffs.

First time taking any apart and working on diffs before.

Once you have the diffs put back togethers hould the out drives spin freely independently of each other or should they not spin at all or should then spin but together?

i thought they should spin freely and independently of each other. But when I put them together they were rock solid and not spinning it moving.

so then I took them apart and tried again.

i decided to stick with stock weight 10/100/10 for now just to get a baseline before changing to a different setup.
 
Agreed, lots of people shim the crapola out of it and think it will loosen up, they do not. Needs to spin freely after assembly, with minimal play.
 
Out drives should spin freely. Rock solid means something is bound or not installed correctly. When you spin one out drive, the opposite side will spin the opposite direction.
@Sargent_Horse Gotcha, so the Front and Rear should spin opposite of each other when I spin in (i.e. one clockwise the other clockwise). Can putting to much diff oil in would that cause an issue and binding?

The center diff the outdrives should turn the same direction or do they actually turn opposite? Trying to remember what it was doing when I was just outside testing it.

Agreed, lots of people shim the crapola out of it and think it will loosen up, they do not. Needs to spin freely after assembly, with minimal play.

@jkflow yeah I followed suit and put the extra 2 shims in the Diff Gear Set (1 and 1) and it did not seem like it was seating properly when I tried to put on the main diff gear 43T GP4 at all. So I pulled them out.

So mainly they should just spin with little friction or resistance.

Looks like I maybe pulling everything apart again and redoing it LOL
 
Its called practice 😉
Yes they all should spin freely in either direction unless they are locked.
Too much fluid is bad, prevents proper seating, there is a bleed screw for that purpose.
 
@jkflow yeah that's it's for darn sure. Practice practice and learn and improve.

I think that is totally what the issue was then the first time I treated the diffs like shocks and had the oil all the way up so it would be totally full once I seated it together. Lesson learned.
 
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