Kraton Diff gears stripping, help!

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
i was under the impression thicker fluid has less shock absorbing action than thinner, is this right?
No, its completely the opposite, thinner diff fluid the gears will work overtime and overheat. You do not really want the gears to spin all that much as you want some power transfer but not all.
Example, you corner and the inner wheel lifts, all power would go to that wheel with thin fluid as there is zero resistance , usually your tire will explode as a result of all the rpm going to that poor wheel. Thicker fluid will keep power transfer to the outer wheel going.
Similar logic with center diff.
Power will always go to lowest resistance, you want THICK diff fluids.
Start with 50/100/50 (k) or whatever you have handy and give it a try. My sweetspot is 30/100/20 (F/M/R) but try it and see what happens.

By all means, go with metal diff cases, cheap ones on aliexpress work great, much better than stock.
 
If you're running a motor the size of a beer can, thinning out your center diff so some of that power can be pushed forward will save your rear diff. With a stock 2050kv motor your diffs shouldn't have any problems. My XL has a stock 2050kv motor and I run 1000k in the center, I have no diff issues.

If you're looking into getting whole filled gearboxes I recommend Big Rock gearboxes from Jenny's. They're 29mm diff cases and gears except they'll be assembled open (without LSD plates). I have them on both my Outcast and my XL Kraton.
you run 1000k in the centre
 
No, its completely the opposite, thinner diff fluid the gears will work overtime and overheat. You do not really want the gears to spin all that much as you want some power transfer but not all.
Example, you corner and the inner wheel lifts, all power would go to that wheel with thin fluid as there is zero resistance , usually your tire will explode as a result of all the rpm going to that poor wheel. Thicker fluid will keep power transfer to the outer wheel going.
Similar logic with center diff.
Power will always go to lowest resistance, you want THICK diff fluids.
Start with 50/100/50 (k) or whatever you have handy and give it a try. My sweetspot is 30/100/20 (F/M/R) but try it and see what happens.

By all means, go with metal diff cases, cheap ones on aliexpress work great, much better than stock.
This is a good explanation.
Except for the cheap Ali diff cases.
I tried them in the center of my Mojaves.
They suck. Their screws are too small and they broke, so the ring gear came off and the truck stopped abruptly with a badly damaged center diff mount. And that was on 4s. Not even 6s.
 
you run 1000k in the centre
Yes I do.
When my trucks do wheelie I can see that the front wheels are spinning faster than the rear, but not so fast they balloon out of control. Just for clarification I'm a dirtpark rager not a racer.
 
Yes I do.
When my trucks do wheelie I can see that the front wheels are spinning faster than the rear, but not so fast they balloon out of control. Just for clarification I'm a dirtpark rager not a racer.
that's very light for the centre :unsure: I run 20k/500k/40k your front tyres must balloon like crazy do you run 6s or 4s
 
Hard braking on the street is pretty hard on the front diff. Are the gears chipping or the tips kinda stripping? You could lower the brake settings a little bit along with some of the other advice in this thread.
 
Hey guys what a good diff to upgrade too? Vitavon? Iv got a Kraton v6 had it for 1 month and blown 2 rear diffs
 
Hey guys what a good diff to upgrade too? Vitavon? Iv got a Kraton v6 had it for 1 month and blown 2 rear diffs
Holy crap! An aluminum 31mm Arrma case, hardened M2C outdrive pins, & Mugen diff shims are pretty tough.
 
just doing some street runs and starting to jump not high atm but tonight I replaced my tyres with proline badlands mx non belted and gave it a couple runs and bang no rear diff ! The first diff i suspected i landed on throttle but this time i was just testing out the new tyres no jumps just was building up to 3/14 throttle and bang
 
Did you rebuild the old diff, or drop in a new one? Shimming goes a long ways for durability.
I just replaced with a new one 2 days ago!
I was wanting to replace with something stronger and the housing too just don’t know what and off shelf stronger diff
 
Just like the standard shim as there was no play being 1 month old but now I’m nervous about running the badlands! They seem to have a lot of grip and maybe they have done it I’m so confused to know what has done it so I can fix the problem lol it doing my head in
 
Just like the standard shim as there was no play being 1 month old but now I’m nervous about running the badlands! They seem to have a lot of grip and maybe they have done it I’m so confused to know what has done it so I can fix the problem lol it doing my head in
After a few years and having all the configurations, my overall Arrma 6S recommendation would be:

Any wheel/tire heavier than a 6S backflip will require 29mm carrier with 2.5mm pin upgrade if you actually want to bash to full capability.

Same goes if you upgrade ESC/Motor with more torque and don't drop punch/discharge curve. The forward/reverse tooth shock and spinning tires off the ground catching high friction surfaces will snap pins/outdrive shafts and stress composite bulkhead covers even with proper input/crown gear mesh.
 
Interesting, being a V6 model it has EXB diff's. They should be pretty tough.

What exactly broke on the diff?

As for the tires, (opinions here will vary) but I don't like heavy tires, they seem to break drivetrains.

I bash conservatively and I manage throttle control well to keep ballooning down.

if you are using heavy tires, taking it easy would be advised.
 
Back
Top