Talion Diff oil question

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danilr

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Location
Phuket, Thailand
Arrma RC's
  1. Talion
I understand, this question was raised here million of times, but: I'd like to change diff bearings, so I need to order diff oil. My Arrma Talion user manual suggests to use 7000CST in the front diff, 10,000CST in the middle and "have no idea which one" in the rear :) I went through different topics in here and everybody suggests to use varieties of setup:
  • 100k, 300k, 50k (F-M-R)
  • 100k, 500k, 100k
  • 60k, 100k, 80k
  • etc.
First of all, the oil type is way to different to the oil from the manual. Secondly, I don't understand the logic. Can anyone explain what type of oil I should use and why people suggest so different configuration?
 
50k f 150k c 10k rear in my Talion.
900 cst in the shocks punch on 9, 19 t pinion sweeeet spot ?
 
There is no right or wrong.. only whats right for you.. Everyone has different ways of driving, some prefer drifting, others max traction or high speed stability and thats why we see such extremes of diff oil recommendations.

I've gone 50/300/30 in my Typhon. I'm gonna go to 500k centre to get it to finally be able to wheely and be more driftable but with the front and rear I'll just have to keep experimenting with until I get it to a better place.

Have you seen the diff setup guide?
 
As others have eluded, it’s a personal preference as to the weights for a large part. There is an extreme either way that could be an issue if you run them wide open or completely locked. But in the middle is an infinite number of combos that others will run.

Now as far as how certain combos affect your performance, think of it this way. A differential has one job, it decided which side of itself gets more power applied. Does it favor one side? Does it split power 50/50? 60/40? 70/30?

In the center diff, this split means if it is running the stock 100k fluid, which for a center diff, it is pretty open, meaning it’s going to send a larger portion of the power to the side with less resistance. Commonly that is the front wheels. If you punch it and the front wheels start to lift, the power will bleed out to the front and stop the wheelie.

Now imagine you are running 500k in the center. That is closer to a locked diff. It will apply power more equally, regardless of resistance. So the rear is going to keep more of its share instead of it bleeding to the front. This means when you punch it, you keep the wheelie.

Now for the front and rear. Here the diff decides left to right. But it’s a similar deal. Thin means that one side gets more power, which helps you turn, as the outside tire gets more power.

If they are more locked, then you end up with more understeer, which is great if you like drifting around corners, or are doing speed runs where you want to only go straight. For some people, this is a terrible setup as they won’t be able to turn under throttle. You will have to brake a little to get the front tires to bite and turn in.

Bottom line is now that you know the effects of thick vs thin, go out there and tune it to the way you want it to work. Buy some spare diffs and load some with different oils so you can quickly swap and compare. ??✌?
 
Have you seen the diff setup guide?

Well, I have only user manual and instructions are super simple: just fill diff with new oil, nothing extra.

What version is your Talion? V3/4 came with 10k 100k 10k.
It's not a bad setup.

I've got V1.
...the stock 100k fluid, which for a center diff...

Thanks for detailed answer, it explains a lot. The only comment I have, you said 100k (a hundred) is stock, but it 10k (ten) is stock. It's 10 times less, am I wrong? It's a big difference.

Here's a picture from manual:
IMG_7369.jpg
 
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