Diff oil questions.

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Freelander

Frankenstein 3S
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Arrma RC's
  1. 4x4-Mega
  2. BigRock 4x4
  3. Granite
  4. Typhon 3s
Ok. Sorry for off brand.

I have a kyosho fazer mk2.

It's very much like an arrma 4x4: rear motor which is mounted same alignment, Awd centre shaft deal.

I put a sidewinder 4 5700kV motor ESC combo in this thing and it is stupid.

It basically roasted the stock tires in one 2S pack.

The big issue is: throttle = donuts.

I have 5000cst oil in the rear diff and used lithium grease in the front.

As near as I can figure I need to stiffen up the rear diff. I figure the power plant is too stupid and once the rear diff starts to slip it just spins this fiddlesticker around like mad.

I mean beybladeshit.

I got some new shoes coming.

Bought some 30mm wide for the rear.

Harder tire compound. 45 shore. Hopefully they'll last a bit longer.

But for advice on the diff(?)

I am going to try and swap the front and rear and see what happens. Or just get a thicker oil for the rear. Will this help(?)
 
Kyosho makes nice stuff. I love Touring cars. I find that I eat tires also. Hard to source belted TC tires where I am.
Do you have a slipper clutch on that??? If so, you can dial that in a bit if you do. My AE TC3 doesn't have one. Wish it did. Same layout as the Fazer other wise.
For starters, any grease used in place of of diff oil is generally considered 1k CST. For reference.
I would make the diffs identical. I would try 3k cst. fr/rr or 5k. Both front and rear. You are getting power bleed to 2 wheels. Power is not balanced front and rear. You have no center diff to compensate. If you have a slipper like the Arrma 4x4's then you could use that to some advantage.

But honestly 5700kv is not going to be easy to dial in. Imagine that on 3s. :rolleyes:
I run my TC3 on 3s with a 120amp HW ESC and 3400kv motor (sensored). I have no slipper clutch , and my fr and rr diffs are ball differentials. No oil or diff gears. But Adjustable. Clocking 52 mph. But it tends to lift, running a Dodge Stratus TC body. It is designed more for a carpet track.

BTW harder tries have crap for traction IMO. 45 shore is somewhat hard and best for hot climates. But they will drift well if that's your thing.
:cool:
 
Thanks for the knowledge, dude.

No the fazer does not have a slipper clutch.

Looks like I made a foolish assumption that grease would be thicker. Not really looking forward to digging that crap out of there.

I think I will try swapping them first to see what happens but I imagine I'll have to just suck it up and change it to the same diff oil.

Were belted tires a lot more expensive(?).

Do you have thoughts on gyros(?) I have an rx coming with that as an option. I have an adms-7 from my typhon 3S in right now as the servo.

I have no idea about any of this stuff. So far it's just been bash and then repair on our 4x4s.

I really enjoyed building a kit though and painting and so on.

Very satisfying.

Anyways hopefully we can get the car to go straight before we try and learn to go sideways. I did get what I presume are medium or soft tires ordered in addition to these maximum hardness tires.
 
Heavier fluid in the rear always made mine act like its got posi trac.more donuts when try to go like u described. Almost want more 1 tire spin in rear.my slipper clutch trucks tend to be more that way (unwanted donuts) than my center diff trucks.slippers are alot harder for speedruning than center diffs.imo🤷‍♂️.still trying to learn different setups and combinations thou.just my 2cents
 
Okay. I think I am stupid. So right now I have effectively 1k in the front and 10k in the back.

Super bad for driving straight apparently.

Totally opposite to what it should be.

Gonna just try and swap them before I change anything else.
 
Okay. I think I am stupid. So right now I have effectively 1k in the front and 10k in the back.

Super bad for driving straight apparently.

Totally opposite to what it should be.

Gonna just try and swap them before I change anything else.
What kind of driving are you going for?basic bashing?
 
I just want some speed and for it to go straight under throttle for now.

Might try to make it drift later.
Someone was telling me a basically locked front diff was best for drifting
 
In my street setups I put 1 million in all diffs.
not sure if your receiver has a gyro.but gyros are awesome for street drifting.can control the drift so gooood.its a blast.my dumborc with gyro set at about 35% on notorious an its a mean drifting machine with 1 million in all 3 diffs.takes off like a rocket...have u seen my parking lot notorious video??you can see gyro in action in video.
 
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In my street setups I put 1 million in all diffs.
not sure if your receiver has a gyro.but gyros are awesome for street drifting.can control the drift so gooood.its a blast.my dumborc with gyro set at about 35% on notorious an its a mean drifting machine with 1 million in all 3 diffs.takes off like a rocket...have u seen my parking lot notorious video??you can see gyro in action in video.
I will check it out. I just saw you have some stuff on youtube(?) I saw you driving one hand in the snow. Link me your channel or something, dude.

This thing is a little maybe 4 lb. Touring car. I put a really high rpm motor in it.

20210314_201532.jpg
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Run it on a 2S for now. Prolly get a soft pack 3S to stick in it. 5700 kV motor.

I swear there was rubber dust all inside the chassis after our first run. Just melted the tires off this thing.

I have a dumborc on the way. Not sure if it's the x6 or xfg6 or what and which ones have the gyro. The ones we have on the 4x4s have the gyro so I guess I could swap them out if it isn't the higher model.

Not sure if the servo is digital though(?) Is that a thing(?) And wouldn't the servo have to be super fast to do that counter steering?
 
I found that moving your pack forward or back in chassis also drastically changes holeshots on the 1/10.weight to much forward will cause donuts too.try moving pack farther back in chassis
 
The 2S hardcase I am using has no room to move and the model is pretty rear heavy. Not much I can do besides add weight to change the balance front to rear. Gonna give it a shot with the stiffer front diff and then go from there. See if it makes a difference before I go heavier on the oil. Seeing as how I have it exactly wrong right now hopefully it will be obvious.

Really appreciate your input, dude.
 
Dude dude.

Totally worked.

Needs to be heavier oil up front for this thing.

Totally different driving experience.

Damn thing is spicy af now. Totally on our way to drift kings.

Can't wait for the new rx/tx. Totally going heavier oil up front and in rear. It's the relationship that makes for better handling and so on. Lower weight rear oil hooks the ass end around and the heavier oil in the front drags the car where you want to go. Going straight and punching the throttle means it's more important to have a more locked front.

Camber in the rear means a slipping rear is still pushing forward straight ish.

P
The 2S hardcase I am using has no room to move and the model is pretty rear heavy. Not much I can do besides add weight to change the balance front to rear. Gonna give it a shot with the stiffer front diff and then go from there. See if it makes a difference before I go heavier on the oil. Seeing as how I have it exactly wrong right now hopefully it will be obvious.

Really appreciate your input, dude.
And @SrC Thanks, dude. If you didn't explain how grease actually reacts at like 20,000 rpm as opposed to me rolling my rig on the carpet vs silicone oil I never would have figured this out
 
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