Typhon Diff Oil Weight in Relationship to Vehicle Weight

[obessedwithrc]

Curious to know—I've read enough to understand the differences between thicker vs. thinner weight f/c/r diff fluid (changing the oil's viscosity if you want to be technical ). That being said, I'm curious if the weight of the diff oil should be increased if the overall weight of the vehicle is increased. For example, if I owned a 9-pound Typhon with no aluminum upgrades vs. a 12-pound Typhon with every M2C aluminum upgrade there is, would that extra 3 lbs require me to run heavier diff weights?

My Typhon TLR weighs 11.2 lbs w/ out tires mounted. I don't remember what it weighed before, but I had to increase the shock spring rate. I'm using the Mojave 70mm front springs (7.0 lbs/in) and the Talion rear springs (5.4 lbs/in). By comparison, the stock front springs are 4.74 lbs/in, and the rear springs are 3.17 lbs/in. So, I definitely put some heavy-duty springs on it to handle the extra weight of all the upgrades.

Based on the heavier weight of the vehicle, should I also consider heavier weight diff fluids? I'd love for some folks to "weigh in" on the topic.

 

[SrC]

That seems awful heavy for a TLRT for starters.
There is a relationship to Diff oil thickness and Rig weight.
However it is more the balance of oil weight between the 3 diffs that will make any driveable differnce.
For strictly hard bashing (with proper Buggy wheels) I would run 60F/200 center/20 R.
But we all drive differently and this can be subjective.
My TLRT (4s) is Way Lighter. 9'ish pounds. But in FULL running weight. Buggy wheels, 4s lipo and Body in place. Ready to drive weight.
The only way to judge a vehicles weight.
I keep my TLRT with Closer to out the box CST in all my diffs. I don't Bash this rig hard. Because it is a Track rig. And is too delicate driven as a hard basher rig. The Pill mounts will crack and break very easily. Designed more for a track setting. So the way I drive works best with closer to stock weight. Much easier to control on confined groomed spaces like a track for instance. Again I only use 4s in my TLRT. How it was desigend to be IMHO.
What options did you add to bring it that heavy?

 

[obessedwithrc]

That seems awful heavy for a TLRT for starters.
There is a relationship to Diff oil thickness and Rig weight.
However it is more the balance of oil weight between the 3 diffs that will make any driveable differnce.
For strictly hard bashing (with proper Buggy wheels) I would run 60F/200 center/20 R.
But we all drive differently and this can be subjective.
My TLRT (4s) is Way Lighter. 9'ish pounds. But in FULL running weight. Buggy wheels, 4s lipo and Body in place. Ready to drive weight.
The only way to judge a vehicles weight.
I keep my TLRT with Closer to out the box CST in all my diffs. I don't Bash this rig hard. Because it is a Track rig. And is too delicate driven as a hard basher rig. The Pill mounts will crack and break very easily. Designed more for a track setting. So the way I drive works best with closer to stock weight. Much easier to control on confined groomed spaces like a track for instance. Again I only use 4s in my TLRT. How it was desigend to be IMHO.
What options did you add to bring it that heavy?

@SrC Thanks for the advice. I was curious about how well the pull mounts would hold up. I'm only a couple of years into the hobby, so I'm not very experienced. I started this Hobby during the pandemic, so I don't have any friends that share this passion. Everything I learn is through YouTube or forums... would love actually to have a local group that I can hang with! Here's a post on the build I put together: https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/tricked-out-typhon-trl-100-hour-build.53833/#post-776636

I think I may just take all of the TLR parts off and re-build the original rig, and then upgrade the hinge pin holders, chassis, and shock towers to M2C. Those are the only "TLR" parts left on the rig other than the TLR-tuned shocks—and those have the M2C shock caps and pistons, RPM rod ends, and much heavier springs.