Kraton Diff question

[Aclewis]

I have 60 wt diff oil in the front differential of my kraton but I noticed that I can’t turn the drive cups with my bare hands and had to use pliars to do so.... is this normal or did I assemble the diff wrong?

 

[pa_fullsend]

Yeah you should be able to easily turn it. You may have over filled and over tightened? Or assembled wrong. I’d break it down and do it again

 

[Aclewis]

OK thanks

 

[Clubin]

I’ve found with the plastic cups they compress it over tightened. I had the same happen to me. I had to use two diff gaskets stacked up. Then I bought aluminum cups.

 

[Aclewis]

Correct me if I’m wrong, but the cups are already metal on the 6s’s?

 

[adidas303]

Stock Diff cups come as a plastic composite

 

[3d-rc.myshopify.com]

Yeah plastic ones I have melted more then once.

 

[Aclewis]

R u talking about the diff housings?

 

[3d-rc.myshopify.com]

Not the bulk head but the diff cup housing. When a diff unloads it gets hot. Do it enough and it will blow a hole in it.

 

[olds97_lss]

The stock one, https://www.arrma-rc.com/part/AR310433 is plastic with steel insert plugs for the x-pins and a steel insert for the output shaft. The cup itself is composite/plastic.

Arrma does make an alloy one:
https://www.arrma-rc.com/part/ARA220050

I'd suggest against it though... had issues with shimming when I installed those in my v2 outcast. Assembled, it's .8mm wider which takes up all the extra room for shimming properly. At least that was my experience, even with late model bulkheads from jenny's. Many have used the hot-racing alloy diff cups though if that's what you want to do.

 

[JvG]

Too much shimms in your diff?

 

[Close Enough]

This is probably late news but you can also use the grub screw in the side of the cup to bleed off excess fluid