Kraton Diff shiming

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OwnsDaily

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Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton 6s
For the people who bash, and drive hard what do you shim and exactly how much do you? Pics would be appreciated.
 
NOOOOOOOOOOO!

ANOTHER SHIM THREAD, Ja Ja!

If I would get a penny for every shim thread I would have about a million pesos by now, lolz
 
For the people who bash, and drive hard what do you shim and exactly how much do you? Pics would be appreciated.
I don't think the new version 6s trucks need shimming. They added some at the factory and that should be enough. For the V3 Kraton and Typhon as well as my Notorious, I added a shim behind each big gear (I call them sun gears). That's it. I bash hard and haven't eaten a diff since I learned how to drive better. If you aren't constantly doing standing backflips, trying to self right your trucks when it's on the lid, or landing under power, the diffs should last a long time.
 
I don't think the new version 6s trucks need shimming. They added some at the factory and that should be enough. For the V3 Kraton and Typhon as well as my Notorious, I added a shim behind each big gear (I call them sun gears). That's it. I bash hard and haven't eaten a diff since I learned how to drive better. If you aren't constantly doing standing backflips, trying to self right your trucks when it's on the lid, or landing under power, the diffs should last a long time.
I have the v4 and my back diff, not the input one but the biggest one got a tooth knocked off, and in the front the bugger one inside the diff lost a tooth.
I have the v4 and my back diff, not the input one but the biggest one got a tooth knocked off, and in the front the bugger one inside the diff lost a tooth.
I honestly was watching your vids and hoped you replied because I thought you had a secret remedy. I do drive like poop and beat my kraton, was just curious if I could prevent this in the future. Already ordered new parts.
 
I have the v4 and my back diff, not the input one but the biggest one got a tooth knocked off, and in the front the bugger one inside the diff lost a tooth.
Can you think of anything that might have caused it? Teeth don't normally shear off out of the blue.
 
I shim my diffs until there's no slop in the gears but not to the point of binding.
When I first got my V3 I ran it as is and broke the front and back diff. After rebuilding and shimming them, no more breakages.
 
check out on YT and on Google airsoft gearbox shimming, follow the same principle, its just like porting cylinder heads, there is really no one way diy method. There are a few general guidelines, and its somewhat time consuming.

Clean the diffs completely, no grease at all, assemble it as is and spin it (just the gearbox, NOT mounted on the car), because this "sound" and "feel" will be your control point.

Put a shim, thicker/thinner, depending if its too loose or too tight on its first spin. Do it again, assemble, spin, and feel for binding. It could be one of each on the sun gear or the main spider gears, But whatever you add must be on equal parts. don't put a bigger shim on one and leave the other three the same.

*shimming is done with NO OIL, and once it sounds smooth and minimal binding, then put oil on the diff gear cases, and assemble everything back.

Shimming diffs needs to be done on a day one is on a good mood, and not in a hurry, its trial and error, keep track of the control setup in case that was the good one after all.

On mine, I never shimmed them, serviced them about after three months of hard bashing, and still have the same drivetrain since 2017, only thing changed was to heavier diff oil and pinion gear.

I have shimmed airsoft gearboxes, and 9 out of 10 if it failed after all it would be from defective ball bearings that then sets the gears off and blows like a grenade, ja ja, not cool when it spits a bearing and you are under heavy fire. Other times gearboxes fail is when running lipo batteries back to back non-stop not giving a break for it to cool off, and IMO all gearboxes need a breakin period, so I do take it easy on the first few packs, one can almost feel the car "loosen up" and its a sign ready for hard bashing.
 
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I jump it alot but nothing major.
Well there are plenty of videos and threads on shimming. The only thing I can add is that you can shim your diffs perfectly and still have them break if you land under power.
 
I jump it alot but nothing major.
I normally let off, but I drive my kraton drinking 9/10 times. Just was curious how you guys beat yours so hard and not have problems or if you just don't talk about them.
 
My Talion can do standing backflips on 6S, I beat it up bad, its all scraped up, scuffed, a little wobbly, ja ja, but keeps goin.

The issues I had were broken pinion gears, the crappy stock tires, broken wing mount, beat up body, bent front shock bolt, bad rear hub bearing, snapped the sway bar mounts during landings, the usual cracked rear diff gearbox (twice already), soon getting the HR CNC type.

I don't want to say it too loud, but the truggy has been good with all three diff gears, and I drive mine a lot in the street, it grabs the road and does wheelie on demand, backflips, wheelies from corner to corner of the block I live at, it does a show for sure (its a showoff, ja ja).

I hate that it scratches the front body posts when it flips, am on my second set, and all the rubber clip holders are gone. It has been completely submerged in water, I mean, underwater, only the top of the body I can barely see, and pull the throttle and love it how it comes out of the water pissed off all over the dirt looking to hookup, I got to drive it for sure as it lines up to oblivion. Covered in mud, dirt, construction sites with tons of pebbles everywhere, and this thing does not want to die. (stock ESC with Talon motor, 17T)

So I don't know, mine is V2 Talion. I guess it happens, with the same old steering servo, switched to a Hitec just because I had it laying around, a little slower, but with more punch to turn the wheels.
 
I don't shim other than what comes in them from the factory. I buy them from Jenny's, tear them apart to change the bearings out then put them back together and add the fluid I want.

If I'm building from scratch like for an aluminum cup, I add shims if there's slop and remove them if it's too tight. It's by feel and there is no magic number of shims. Each diff. is different, some might need more than others. Just dry fit everything first so you make less of a mess.
 
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