Diff upgrade?

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Twitchfast

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Arrma RC's
  1. Typhon 6s
I will preface this in saying I haven't killed or damaged a diff yet, but I'm in the process of making a stupid setup for my Typhon V4 and would love to know if anyone knows of upgrade paths for the differentials.
I've tried the search function to no avail, thanks in advance :)
 
I will preface this in saying I haven't killed or damaged a diff yet, but I'm in the process of making a stupid setup for my Typhon V4 and would love to know if anyone knows of upgrade paths for the differentials.
I've tried the search function to no avail, thanks in advance :)
The only thing I can think of is using the front and rear diffs from the Kraton/Outcast which are spiral cut as opposed to straight cut. The gearing is lower so you could adjust the size of your pinion to compensate. You could also use the new EXB diffs as well, but the open rear diff has had issues.

What kind of power are you planning?
 
The only thing I can think of is using the front and rear diffs from the Kraton/Outcast which are spiral cut as opposed to straight cut. The gearing is lower so you could adjust the size of your pinion to compensate. You could also use the new EXB diffs as well, but the open rear diff has had issues.

What kind of power are you planning?
I'm going to be running a 2080 800kv Castle motor with 1/5th adapters, it's basically for street bashing with a ton of torque.
Thanks for the suggestion, I wasn't even aware that the Kraton/Outcast had different gearing, I assumed Arrma just used the same kit for "most" of their vehicles.
 
I'm going to be running a 2080 800kv Castle motor with 1/5th adapters, it's basically for street bashing with a ton of torque.
Thanks for the suggestion, I wasn't even aware that the Kraton/Outcast had different gearing, I assumed Arrma just used the same kit for "most" of their vehicles.
Oh my... ?
 
I'm going to be running a 2080 800kv Castle motor with 1/5th adapters, it's basically for street bashing with a ton of torque.
Thanks for the suggestion, I wasn't even aware that the Kraton/Outcast had different gearing, I assumed Arrma just used the same kit for "most" of their vehicles.
The Typhon and the Senton have a higher F/R gear ratio and straight cut gears. The larger trucks have spiral cut gears for added strength. The Typhon and Senton have a higher gear ratio due to the smaller tires.
 
The Typhon and the Senton have a higher F/R gear ratio and straight cut gears. The larger trucks have spiral cut gears for added strength. The Typhon and Senton have a higher gear ratio due to the smaller tires.
I just realised why I was confused, I forgot about the 8s Outcast/Kraton.
Apologies if I'm just being silly here, would they fit? I would've thought for a larger scale truck they would have upscaled the differentials.
 
I just realised why I was confused, I forgot about the 8s Outcast/Kraton.
Apologies if I'm just being silly here, would they fit? I would've thought for a larger scale truck they would have upscaled the differentials.
I'm not talking about the 8S diffs. Those would NOT fit. I'm referring to the 6S diffs.
 
I'm not talking about the 8S diffs. Those would NOT fit. I'm referring to the 6S diffs.
Ahh, I kept seeing images of spiral cut gears on the 8S diffs and assumed that was what you meant :facepalm:
I can certainly see the spiral on the input gear now I've found it, thanks again!
 
Why the heck would you put an 800kv motor in a Typhon? ??‍♂️????‍♂️

You’re obviously new to RC and that’s fine, I’m not trying to hurt your feelings but even if you could get that in under the body, that’s wayyyyy too much for such a little buggy. Honestly the stock setup is pretty fast, even on 4S.

Now if you’re trying to do 100+ mph speed runs, then you’re talking something else ESC wise. But even the stock motor can get you to around 110-120mph with a good ESC like the MMX8S.

So save yourself the huge amount of money it’s going to take to get an 800kv motor to be fast in a Typhon. Here is a quick rundown that I can think of off rip

MMX8S or XLX
8S or more
PPS motor mount for large cans
PPS Center diff mount and cap
Huge pinion
Smallest spur you can get (46T?) or a spool
Spiral cut F/R diff rings and pinions
Lots of fans
 
Why the heck would you put an 800kv motor in a Typhon? ??‍♂️????‍♂️

You’re obviously new to RC and that’s fine, I’m not trying to hurt your feelings but even if you could get that in under the body, that’s wayyyyy too much for such a little buggy. Honestly the stock setup is pretty fast, even on 4S.

Now if you’re trying to do 100+ mph speed runs, then you’re talking something else ESC wise. But even the stock motor can get you to around 110-120mph with a good ESC like the MMX8S.

So save yourself the huge amount of money it’s going to take to get an 800kv motor to be fast in a Typhon. Here is a quick rundown that I can think of off rip

MMX8S or XLX
8S or more
PPS motor mount for large cans
PPS Center diff mount and cap
Huge pinion
Smallest spur you can get (46T?) or a spool
Spiral cut F/R diff rings and pinions
Lots of fans
I'm well aware it's a stupid setup, hence
Twitchfast said:
I'm in the process of making a stupid setup for my Typhon V4
I already have the 2028 motor + XLX and stretched my Typhon with a Talion chassis, I also have a 48T pinion/29T spur, the motor mount will be arriving tomorrow.

As I mentioned in my previous thread (concerning whether I should go XLX or MM8S) I'm not really going for speedruns, this is purely to have a silly car with too much torque.
 
I'm well aware it's a stupid setup, hence
I already have the 2028 motor + XLX and stretched my Typhon with a Talion chassis, I also have a 48T pinion/29T spur, the motor mount will be arriving tomorrow.

As I mentioned in my previous thread (concerning whether I should go XLX or MM8S) I'm not really going for speedruns, this is purely to have a silly car with too much torque.
Go for it! ???
 
First of all, excuse my abused Typhon, needs some TLC.
Second of all, I've encountered an issue, the torque is causing the motor to move in the mount and the pinion won't stay on.

Any suggestions to keep things tight? I've tried loctite to no avail, and that's only running 6S lol
 

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First of all, excuse my abused Typhon, needs some TLC.
Second of all, I've encountered an issue, the torque is causing the motor to move in the mount and the pinion won't stay on.

Any suggestions to keep things tight? I've tried loctite to no avail, and that's only running 6S lol
Have you made sure to clean thoroughly with alcohol priory to loctite application? And then made sure to wait 24 hours prior to driving??

that thing is a BEAST!
 
Have you made sure to clean thoroughly with alcohol priory to loctite application? And then made sure to wait 24 hours prior to driving??

that thing is a BEAST!
I did give the loctite time to set, however I didn't degrease with alcohol which in hindsight is silly as I have ~4 litres of the stuff.
I also forgot to clarify that's a 48T pinion and a 34T spur, can't find a bigger pinion in the UK and a smaller spur is difficult as the motor is so large, the motor moves down and in which causes it to hit the chassis plate.
The best idea I can come up with is to raise the motor mount with shims to allow the motor to move further in.

Oh and I've tried using thick plastic bags in the grub creating something akin to a nyloc, that's worked surprisingly well for me in the past but the torque appears to be too much here.
 
Get a PPS motor mount.
Ahhh that's depressing, that mount looks gorgeous.
Just hope customs doesn't beat me down.

-Edit
Put the pinion + grub in a bag of hot alcohol + ultrasonic and used red loctite which is working very well, the pinion no longer comes off.
The motor mount I'm using allen bolts with larger heads and split washers to help bite into my (now temporary) motor mount, the motor is no longer moving (y)

The stock drive grub in my limitless spool managed to shear clean off, pretty little comparison photo below, that's all I have left of it.

Untitled.png
 
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