Notorious Differential grease?

[Rich8692]

So I'm new to arrmas and I was running my notorious yesterday and the diffs didn't sound great so I was doing so cleaning and maintenance and noticed the rear dif was rough sounding I pulled it and sure enough it was really low I've taken it out checked and cleaned and refilled with 10k but I am wondering if the should be some type of greese in the housing I only have white lithium greese or I can get something from my work later which is an autozone. Any advice will help I'm new to the hobby and Arrmas.
I also have a damaged shim maybe? What is the purpose of this? Should I straighten out and put back on

 

[BIG C]

So I'm new to arrmas and I was running my notorious yesterday and the diffs didn't sound great so I was doing so cleaning and maintenance and noticed the rear dif was rough sounding I pulled it and sure enough it was really low I've taken it out checked and cleaned and refilled with 10k but I am wondering if the should be some type of greese in the housing I only have white lithium greese or I can get something from my work later which is an autozone. Any advice will help I'm new to the hobby and Arrmas.
I also have a damaged shim maybe? What is the purpose of this? Should I straighten out and put back on

I would stick to the diff oil. I am 15 and have been doing rc’s for a few years now, trying to spend the least amount of money possible, i have tried heavy motor-oil and even grease an it doesn't work good. i tried packing one of my friends diffs full of grease once and it lasted about 5min. in a 2wd stampede. it got hot and cooked it. diff oil wont do that. you should check the o-rings on the output shafts as well to make sure they arent leaking. and yes i would keep the shim and either replace it or straighten it, it will be in there for a reason. I also have the notorious and I have never had a problem with the diff itself, and I’ve put through about 150 4s charges through them and they still look good. Hopefully this helps.

 

[Rich8692]

Thank you for the input but I'm not talking about the diff itself I have that filled with fresh 10k fluid I'm wondering about the housing the diff sits in their was some greese in their already just wanted to know what should be in their

 

[Mike-NLD]

Thank you for the input but I'm not talking about the diff itself I have that filled with fresh 10k fluid I'm wondering about the housing the diff sits in their was some greese in their already just wanted to know what should be in their

The gears within the housing.. Lithium grease will do!

 

[BIG C]

Thank you for the input but I'm not talking about the diff itself I have that filled with fresh 10k fluid I'm wondering about the housing the diff sits in their was some greese in their already just wanted to know what should be in their

Oh i see, yes i always pile the grease on the gears, but make sure there is not grime or dirt in the diff case because if it gets in your grease it will turn it into liquid sandpaper AKA death and destruction to gears!

 

[Rich8692]

Thank you guys!

 

[SrC]

Input and ring gear are worthy of grease that is better than Lithium grease. Most Lithium grease is far from the best grease for high or even low temps.
You can use an automotive NLGI 2 grease, preferably synthetic marine grade. And yes a very clean diff case is needed. Even a few grains of sand can wreak havoc. Put a smear of grease around the diff case where it meets the chassis. It will provide a seal against dirt and water ingress.
I do this on my Noto. Kraton, and OC. (6S rigs). I am 110 yo and been doing RC for 75 years now so trying to keep costs down.. I cant afford to ruin my rigs like most can.

 

[Evil-T]

I use red n tacky (or whatever it’s called ?) also put a bead of it along the mating edges so it find of forms a gasket once screwed together (wipe excess off)

On good advice from a forum member I also use Tek-jo gaskets

 

[jondilly1974]

Yep either the red or blue high temp grease for the 6S diff housings. White is fine for the 3S/4S rigs.

 

[SrC]

Oh i see, yes i always pile the grease on the gears, but make sure there is not grime or dirt in the diff case because if it gets in your grease it will turn it into liquid sandpaper AKA death and destruction to gears!

A generous amount of grease yes. But no need to pack the heck out of it. At some point it is just a waste and makes your next rebuild a real chore. I concentrate putting the grease on the ring gear teeth and then on both sides of the ring gear towards the diff cup. Centrifical force of the diff as it spins then makes the grease feed the teeth with use, especially when the grease gets hotter and flows outward to the RG teeth.

 

[Rich8692]

So I have a new problem I reinstalled the rear diff back in and I took it out to test and make sure it was running ok I still heard that sound that I didn't like so I packed out headed to work and once I got hear I started to inspect it and it seems as my center diff front axle carrier cup is extreamly loose and wobbles which is also making my spur gear loose and wobbly again I'm new to arrmas and have yet to pull the center diff as I only had for about 3 weeks now I think the cup just backed out but I'm on sure of how its assembled so I could be wrong anything i should look for and any tips to remove the center diff? Also is 10k diff oil good enough until I get what would be needed in the mail if need be.

Thanks again.

 

[BIG C]

So I have a new problem I reinstalled the rear diff back in and I took it out to test and make sure it was running ok I still heard that sound that I didn't like so I packed out headed to work and once I got hear I started to inspect it and it seems as my center diff front axle carrier cup is extreamly loose and wobbles which is also making my spur gear loose and wobbly again I'm new to arrmas and have yet to pull the center diff as I only had for about 3 weeks now I think the cup just backed out but I'm on sure of how its assembled so I could be wrong anything i should look for and any tips to remove the center diff? Also is 10k diff oil good enough until I get what would be needed in the mail if need be.

Thanks again.

You will need to pull your entire motor mount out, (like 5 screws on the bottom of the chassis) and disassemble it to the point where you can remove the diff. the center diff is the same as the other two, so assembly will be the same. i think 10k is what mine had stock and i haven't changed it.

 

[Wmorgan]

Your center diff should not be "wobbly". Check the top plastic cover screws that fits over the center diff and make sure they are tight. If they become loose then the center diff may become dislodged and "wobbly".

If you have a 2019 rig you won't need to screw from underneath to remove the motor as the new designs have the sliding motor mount that only requires 2 screws from the top to slide the motor out. Then the 4 cap screws for the plastic cover that holds the center diff in place to remove the diff.

You'll want to use something heavier than 10k on center diff if that was the question. Use 100k minimum. I use 200k and many recommend 500k.

The shim on the out-drive of the diff is important. It compensates for "slop" in the housing to push the diff ring gear snug to the main input gear. If it is needed and you don't use it you'll quickly ruin either or both gears. As wear occurs adding shims there can extend the life of the ring gear. I was up to 3 on my Kraton before having to replace both ring and input gear.

 

[SrC]

Tear down the whole ctr. diff.
Also I find thinner diff oil tends to cause much diffing out and excessive satellite gear wear. My cntr. diff runs over 230F. degrees consistently using 10k. That wreaks havoc on that cntr. dff. It's the single hottest component.

 

[bicketybam]

I use this: https://www.horizonhobby.com/produc...1/grease-gun-with-marine-grease-5-oz-dyne4200

 

[Rich8692]

My center diff was completely empty and one of the cups seems really loose It tightened up a little when I added diff fluid but looking and the manual It doesn't seem that they can be tightened besides the seal that holds the oil in.

Also thank all you guys for the help I did it on my lunch brake and I do have a 2019 model so I just need to remove the top plate but does anyone have any ideas why the front cup has wobble in it still?

 

[SrC]

If it's completely empty, chances are your crown gears/satellite gears are worn. Check wear at the diff output cups and their bearings. All of that got overheated running almost dry. If all cleans up well makes sure shimming is proper. Clean all, before filling with clean 100k+.

 

[Rich8692]

Thanks looks like I need to look into getting some shims and dial it in that slop is driving me nuts it feels much better now that's its cleaned and filled but not right so I'll start playing around with it

 

[jonesy67]

Input and ring gear are worthy of grease that is better than Lithium grease. Most Lithium grease is far from the best grease for high or even low temps.
You can use an automotive NLGI 2 grease, preferably synthetic marine grade. And yes a very clean diff case is needed. Even a few grains of sand can wreak havoc. Put a smear of grease around the diff case where it meets the chassis. It will provide a seal against dirt and water ingress.
I do this on my Noto. Kraton, and OC. (6S rigs). I am 110 yo and been doing RC for 75 years now so trying to keep costs down.. I cant afford to ruin my rigs like most can.

Just wondering if I could sub out the NLGI 2 grease with an EP2 grease? The EP2 isn't marine grade but it is an extreme pressure grease for bearings and chassis parts.

 

[SrC]

EP2 is just fine! It is NLGI 2 grade also.