Differential oil weight tips

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I just put 500,000 in the center diff. and 30,000 front 20,000 rear. Now the front wheels barely get any power. What did i forget? Off the ground when I hit the throttle all wheels go but the front will just spin when I let off.
 
I put 60k front, 500k center and 30k rear in V4 Kraton and it appears to run very balanced at high speed.
I'm having other issues with front diff and may need to add some shims apparently.
 
Sorry to ask this but, you had no bits left when you reassembled it? When you turned them by hand did the feel ok? Seems very odd
Grub screw loose on main gear cup. But the shaft seems broken. Only goes half way through the hole for the grub screw to catch on. Ordered a new one. Now I have to tear it apart again.
 
Grub screw loose on main gear cup. But the shaft seems broken. Only goes half way through the hole for the grub screw to catch on. Ordered a new one. Now I have to tear it apart again.
And the bonus round. Bearing wasn’t seated properly. Now it is fully fixed.
 
Kind of new to the whole diff oil thing, and coming from the racing aspect of the hobby, it shocks me how much lower center diff fluids are in comparison to stock/bashers. Bout to order some so I can do my full bearing kit and everyone at my track has recommended around a 15/12/10 setup for my Talion.
 
6s power has a lot to do with it. With 100k or less, the center diff will really unload the power to the front wheels and cause the tires to really balloon. The heavier center diff oil helps prevent this.

First off - disclaimer: Only had my Talion for a month now and it is my first RC car in 12 years and my first 6s car and my first non-Nitro car in a long time.

Thing that I don't understand is:

If the 6s Talion and Kraton come out with 7k front , 10k center and 7k rear...why would you want to change that ?
  1. Did the people at ARRMA not know what they were doing when they chose a viscosity ?
  2. And also, when you mention anything above 10k to local hobby shops they look at you like you are talking a foreign language.
  3. Finally, most forums I'be come across suggest the very same 7k , 10k ,7k ratio for truggies.
The only downside of lighter diff fluids it seems to me, is tire ballooning when you go really fast. If you make sure you've punched holes in your tires to release the sand and water inside, this issue is mitigated and you still have all the advantages (more power and more precise cornering) of lighter diff fluids.

?‍♂️
 
First off - disclaimer: Only had my Talion for a month now and it is my first RC car in 12 years and my first 6s car and my first non-Nitro car in a long time.

Thing that I don't understand is:

If the 6s Talion and Kraton come out with 7k front , 10k center and 7k rear...why would you want to change that ?
  1. Did the people at ARRMA not know what they were doing when they chose a viscosity ?
  2. And also, when you mention anything above 10k to local hobby shops they look at you like you are talking a foreign language.
  3. Finally, most forums I'be come across suggest the very same 7k , 10k ,7k ratio for truggies.
The only downside of lighter diff fluids it seems to me, is tire ballooning when you go really fast. If you make sure you've punched holes in your tires to release the sand and water inside, this issue is mitigated and you still have all the advantages (more power and more precise cornering) of lighter diff fluids.

?‍♂️

You don't have to change the diff fluid from stock. That being said, most of us do because using thicker/ thinner fluid will get the rig to act differently. For example, putting thicker fluid in the center will transfer more power to the rear, which in turn will reduce the chance of diffing out or, balloon the front tires. You could also change up your front and rear diff fluid, to give you better handling coming out of a corner or, to get better traction during take off, by keeping your front tires down. It's all a matter of preference and trial/ error on what would work best for you.

Or, you could just leave it stock, if it makes you happy.
 
putting thicker fluid in the center will transfer more power to the rear, which in turn will reduce the chance of diffing out or, balloon the front tires
I do like this idea and the idea of keeping front tires down...

Also,less tire spin should on theory also give you longer tire thread life I guess.
 
I do like this idea and the idea of keeping front tires down...

Also,less tire spin should on theory also give you longer tire thread life I guess.
I don’t think you understand what he said. Shifting power to the rear will make it wheelie MORE. It will cut down on the power bleeding to the front wheels. You will get more power to the ground overall. This produces wheelies more easily.
 
If the 6s Talion and Kraton come out with 7k front , 10k center and 7k rear...why would you want to change that ?
The stock oil is actually 10k/100k/10k

  1. Did the people at ARRMA not know what they were doing when they chose a viscosity ?
  2. And also, when you mention anything above 10k to local hobby shops they look at you like you are talking a foreign language.
  3. Finally, most forums I'be come across suggest the very same 7k , 10k ,7k ratio for truggies.
The only downside of lighter diff fluids it seems to me, is tire ballooning when you go really fast. If you make sure you've punched holes in your tires to release the sand and water inside, this issue is mitigated and you still have all the advantages (more power and more precise cornering) of lighter diff fluids.

Racing setup requirement is different than bashing setup, truggys race with 4s power, and the issue there is grip grip grip, you don't have long straights, but rather twists and turns, and you need to be able to put down power while turning sharply. Thick diffs will not let you do that, thick diff will force the wheel to turn at speeds he does not want to go at, forcing the wheels to fight both the turning grip and the diff.

So Arrma chooes a good balance.
 
I don’t think you understand what he said. Shifting power to the rear will make it wheelie MORE. It will cut down on the power bleeding to the front wheels. You will get more power to the ground overall. This produces wheelies more easily.
In that case the chance of diffing out & ballooning the front tires will actually be more (not less) with thicker diff fluid as the front wheels will be more likely to lift off the ground...
10k/100k/10k
Yikes, you are right - just checked the manual. Manual Says center diff is 100 000 CST.
So Arrma chooes a good balance.
My thoughts exactly - hence my confusion as to why so many people are changing the fluid. That being said it looks like most only tweak the front and rear fluids and leave the center at 100 000 CST,
 
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