Outcast Differential/pinion grease recommended.

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Maybe put two shims on the input gear then? That's where my problem began. Some people say to shim. Others say it's not necessary. I think it was from the constant backflips and hard acceleration. And also, from flipping the vehicle over by force almost every time it was upside down.
 
olds97_lss said:
Well, I used the same tub of axle/bearing grease in all my diffs for the past 15 years or so until I recently got some red-n-tacky. On other trucks, with a form fitting diff case like the revo/t-maxx/LST, it didn't take much grease to make it look like the "case" was full and you could clearly see the path cut through it and very little sticking to the gears when maintenance time came around.

These days, I load up the teeth of the ring gear and that's all I put in. The red-n-tacky appears to really adhere to the gears even over time.
Click to expand...

Ah, I thought you were talking about the Arrma boxes. Thought maybe I was doing it wrong. :LOL:
 
I got everything figured out, including gaskets and seals and the diff. Everything coming in the mail currently. I even bought hop up parts from JBS : (shock towers and chasis braces). The only thing left is to figure out where I MIGHT need shims and what kind would I use. I was thinking about adding one or two behind the input gear and take it from there, since that's where things hit the fan last time. I spent about $200 total, so hopefully I get things done right. I watched another video where a guy was talking about protecting the rear seal with a shim BC it might last longer? I'll put the link here so that you guys tell me what you think about that. Thanks!
 
That video is helpful to a point, basically if you know what your doing... I feel the last part will get a newbie lost... telling you to install the last sun gear then bolting the ring to the cup to displace fluid, he forgot to tell you to pull it back apart to shim,oring,and pin the sun to the ring gear..

Do yourself a favor and just assemble all of it, then fill it.. let it sit for the fluid to settle..

Watch some of rich duperbash's shimming videos too ... all the shim numbers provided in the above video are relevant so that's a plus, but I feel newbies will become lost as he was all over the place with no particular order...
 
Camaroboy383 said:
That video is helpful to a point, basically if you know what your doing... I feel the last part will get a newbie lost... telling you to install the last sun gear then bolting the ring to the cup to displace fluid, he forgot to tell you to pull it back apart to shim,oring,and pin the sun to the ring gear..

Do yourself a favor and just assemble all of it, then fill it.. let it sit for the fluid to settle..

Watch some of rich duperbash's shimming videos too ... all the shim numbers provided in the above video are relevant so that's a plus, but I feel newbies will become lost as he was all over the place with no particular order...
Click to expand...
What do you think about the shim that protects the seal in the back?
 
Armarookie43 said:
What do you think about the shim that protects the seal in the back?
Click to expand...

Those shims would be fine if you use like .1 on each side.. I've personally never had a leaky seal running them the way they are with no shim... out of all the rings and pinions I've destroyed not one time did the diff fail... I do know rich duperbash had an issue with sun gears breaking but that's all I've seen of it..

I just shim the ring and pinion and beat the snots out of it... now the only time it eats teeth is if I have a catastrophic bearing failure either on the input side or output side...

When you shim the diffs all your looking for is to take the lash completely out.. if you have a whole diff housing in your hand, with rear cover off to expose the ring gear, hold the ring gear and diff cup still with your thumb.. then grab your input dogbone cup with your other hand and gently rock back and forth clockwise/ counterclockwise to feel for backlash.. you want to eliminate all of that just until the point there is no backlash..

if you go to far you will notice when you turn the input cup you will feel a notchy clunk on every tooth...
So make sure to check it with the cover bolted on and in your hand.. not in the truck..
 
Camaroboy383 said:
Those shims would be fine if you use like .1 on each side.. I've personally never had a leaky seal running them the way they are with no shim... out of all the rings and pinions I've destroyed not one time did the diff fail... I do know rich duperbash had an issue with sun gears breaking but that's all I've seen of it..

I just shim the ring and pinion and beat the snots out of it... now the only time it eats teeth is if I have a catastrophic bearing failure either on the input side or output side...

When you shim the diffs all your looking for is to take the lash completely out.. if you have a whole diff housing in your hand, with rear cover off to expose the ring gear, hold the ring gear and diff cup still with your thumb.. then grab your input dogbone cup with your other hand and gently rock back and forth clockwise/ counterclockwise to feel for backlash.. you want to eliminate all of that just until the point there is no backlash..

if you go to far you will notice when you turn the input cup you will feel a notchy clunk on every tooth...
So make sure to check it with the cover bolted on and in your hand.. not in the truck..
Click to expand...
Excellent explanation. So to shim the pinion put shims right behind it, and when it comes to the ring gear, put them on both sides, like where the stock shim is in the housing? So I guess add an extra one on the other side if needed? Thanks! I've got everything coming and just need to order the shims. I won't order that shim that is supposed to protect the seal since I've never seen anyone with that issue honestly.
 
The ring gear shim would be added to the same side as the factory one sir... idea is to push the ring gear closer to the pinion..

And yes, shim behind the pinion against the bearing
 
Camaroboy383 said:
The ring gear shim would be added to the same side as the factory one sir... idea is to push the ring gear closer to the pinion..

And yes, shim behind the pinion against the bearing
Click to expand...
Ah OK ok. It makes perfect sense. Thanks!
 
Surchaufeur said:
I have used white lithium grease on my composite kraton diff and it just killed 3 diffs it doesn't lubricate at all.. now i use marine grease and my gears still look brand new:D
Maybe its differant for metal diffs
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I’ve only used silicone grease made for auto brake pads and haven’t had a single issue. It’s just what I have on hand.
 
Camaroboy383 said:
That's not quite true... there are a number of variables that can cause the opposite wheel not to roll immediately, ie. Worn Output cups, dog bones, diff cup towers ect.... so that method is no good.. while the spider and planetary gears can be shimmed that's not really what we are after here...

We want to take the backlash out of the ring and pinion.. it's the most common failure point.. as you see from your stripped ring and pinion... alot of the failures come from worn out or exploded pinion or carrier bearings, letting the mesh of the gears fall away eventually jumping teeth and the rest is history...

I use 2 .2 shims on the carrier and a .1 or a .2 shim behind the pinion depending on the slop in the lash.. but honestly even the 2 .2 shims on the carrier will make them so much better... thier are several videos on youtube about shimming these..
Click to expand...


Forgive me, but "taking the backlash out of the ring" doesn't ring a bell.
Would you mind elaborating?

Id really like to do what you're talking about, but am a bit lost in the lingo.

Maybe I should start a new thread...
Appreciate any guidance
 
Easiest way to explain is if your looking at the teeth contact and you are turning the input the one face of the pinion tooth is contacting one face of the tooth of the ring gear...

Now if you spin the input the other way and there is space (backlash) before it contacts the tooth in the other direction this is called backlash..

Hope you understand
 
Truckn' said:
Forgive me, but "taking the backlash out of the ring" doesn't ring a bell.
Would you mind elaborating?

Id really like to do what you're talking about, but am a bit lost in the lingo.

Maybe I should start a new thread...
Appreciate any guidance
Click to expand...
Hey I don't mind at all your questions as the original poster. I also learn from them. Yeah, we're trying to keep the ring gear teeth and pinion teeth as close as possible so that they don't strip like mine did.
 
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