Outcast Diffs on 6s

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They need shims under the planatery gears as from the factory there to much clearance.
 
What are the shims you guys talk about?
 
What are the shims you guys talk about?
These are the shims I've used. Teknos and Kyosho bags are bearing shims for 43t crown side to main input gear.
 

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Well this video there is a comment stating that outcast 6s is shimmed is that correct?


Tp-Parts Rc-Xtreme1 month ago
Claudio Moody hi External shim to get right mes between ringgear and diff pinion. Outcast 6s are shimed from factory, the others i cant tell PD1896 or dimension 16x13x0.1-.03​


So does that mean i don't have to shim?
 
Well this video there is a comment stating that outcast 6s is shimmed is that correct?


Tp-Parts Rc-Xtreme1 month ago
Claudio Moody hi External shim to get right mes between ringgear and diff pinion. Outcast 6s are shimed from factory, the others i cant tell PD1896 or dimension 16x13x0.1-.03​


So does that mean i don't have to shim?
Thats talking about the external shim on the outside of the bearing which it has but not the planatery gears
 
What are the shims you guys talk about?
Well this video there is a comment stating that outcast 6s is shimmed is that correct?


Tp-Parts Rc-Xtreme1 month ago
Claudio Moody hi External shim to get right mes between ringgear and diff pinion. Outcast 6s are shimed from factory, the others i cant tell PD1896 or dimension 16x13x0.1-.03​


So does that mean i don't have to shim?
I finally opened Outcast rear diff after hearing clicking to find 43t crown gear missing a tooth, damage to input, pitting and crack to planetary gears, see old on left, new on right. I drive 6s only and hadn't shimmed my rear diff yet. All buttoned up now.
IMG_20170112_185746499.jpg
IMG_20170112_185043830.jpg
 
These are the shims I've used. Teknos and Kyosho bags are bearing shims for 43t crown side to main input gear.

Rich,

Do you need a bag of kyosho, mugen, and techno shims to cover all the internal shimming?

Do the front, center, and rear diffs all require shimming?
 
Last edited:
Rich,

Do you need a bag of kyosho, mugen, and techno shims to cover all the internal shimming?

Do the front, center, and rear diffs all require shimming?

You don't know Rich...If you walk to your local Hobby shop and can't find any diff shims from any manufacturer - that means Rich Duperbash has beat you to it. Just kiding, these shims can be found just about any where. Even Hobby king has some, just search for beserker truggy shims. I saw Riches video on the tube about diff prep and shims very informative. I run mainly 4S in my Outcast, but I run Big Joes, next time we have poopy rainy weather in Dallas I'll shim my diffst untI'll then I'll rock on.
 
Rich,

Do you need a bag of kyosho, mugen, and techno shims to cover all the internal shimming?

Do the front, center, and rear diffs all require shimming?
This is debatable to some extent, but if you bash hard especially on 6s, probably a good idea to bulletproof your diffs by adding Mugen or Team Durango planetary shims. The Tekno and Kyosho shims are the same size, just slightly different thicknesses. I used 2 Kyosho bearing shims on crown gear side and it really took all existing slop out between input and crown gear. Watch Thomas P vid on bulletproofing diffs, Tp-PartsRC-Xtreme. I basically followed his method. Mugen shims cost more and you only get 5 planetary shims per bag, 12 satellite shims. I'm far from done shimming all my diffs with 4 Arrmas, 12 diffs! It's sort of by feel, no slop, but not overshimmed too tight.
 
Well this video there is a comment stating that outcast 6s is shimmed is that correct?


Tp-Parts Rc-Xtreme1 month ago
Claudio Moody hi External shim to get right mes between ringgear and diff pinion. Outcast 6s are shimed from factory, the others i cant tell PD1896 or dimension 16x13x0.1-.03​


So does that mean i don't have to shim?
Sorry newb question but what was the stuff in the bottle he was putting in the dif.
 
So is it recommended to shim all three diffs, or just the center?
I'm shimming all 3 internal diffs the same way, and using 2 Kyosho bearing shims on crown gear side front and rear diff to keep crown and input gears in mesh a bit more snuggly. Don't want to loose anymore teeth. PS, good idea to check front and rear input cup grub screws along with pinion grub regularly. I've had repeated loosening of these on 6s. Need solid Loctite for sure.
 
Cool...so how many of the small shims are needed to do all three? I think the diffs have 4 in each to begin with, and in watching Thomas' video it looks like he adds an extra to each of the little gear cross pins, meaning 2:1, 2:1.
So by that logic, I will need 6 extra to do all three diffs.
I ask because the Durango ones come in packs of 10, so I am curious if I need one or two packs.
If I am running 4S do I really need the shims outside of the bearing on crown gear side??
 
Cool...so how many of the small shims are needed to do all three? I think the diffs have 4 in each to begin with, and in watching Thomas' video it looks like he adds an extra to each of the little gear cross pins, meaning 2:1, 2:1.
So by that logic, I will need 6 extra to do all three diffs.
I ask because the Durango ones come in packs of 10, so I am curious if I need one or two packs.
If I am running 4S do I really need the shims outside of the bearing on crown gear side??
It's actually debatable whether you need to shim at all. I've continued to bash the crap out of my rigs without all diffs being fully bulletproofed persay. That said, I've broken several planetary gears, lost teeth on 2 main input gears, grounded another one, and lost a tooth on my rear crown gear. I'm slowly shimming all my diffs on my 4 Arrmas because it's cheaper then replacing gears and it sucks to end session early from failures. Your shim count sounds right. However, on 2 of my diffs I found I liked 3 planetary shims, 2 on spur gear side of center diff. 1still left too much slop when sliding input pin back in. It's a judgement thing. I recommend using the mystery spacer..Lol, the bearing shims between 2-3 of them on crown gear side. The input gear has 10 tiny spiral teeth and all that power transferring through it. I personally want a snug mesh after having failures there.
 
It's actually debatable whether you need to shim at all. I've continued to bash the crap out of my rigs without all diffs being fully bulletproofed persay. That said, I've broken several planetary gears, lost teeth on 2 main input gears, grounded another one, and lost a tooth on my rear crown gear. I'm slowly shimming all my diffs on my 4 Arrmas because it's cheaper then replacing gears and it sucks to end session early from failures. Your shim count sounds right. However, on 2 of my diffs I found I liked 3 planetary shims, 2 on spur gear side of center diff. 1still left too much slop when sliding input pin back in. It's a judgement thing. I recommend using the mystery spacer..Lol, the bearing shims between 2-3 of them on crown gear side. The input gear has 10 tiny spiral teeth and all that power transferring through it. I personally want a snug mesh after having failures there.
How often are you guys changing diff oil ??
It seems like I have to change the Centre diff every 5 or so packs.
Will shimming help keep the oil in ?
 
How often are you guys changing diff oil ??
It seems like I have to change the Centre diff every 5 or so packs.
Will shimming help keep the oil in ?
How often are you guys changing diff oil ??
It seems like I have to change the Centre diff every 5 or so packs.
Will shimming help keep the oil in ?
I think it definitely will if you're leaking diff fluid. The planetary shims help seal the little orange O ring better, helps keep it properly seated. I usually cover the shim with a drop of diff fluid before I place it over the O ring so it suctions/sticks in place better. Lightly greasing the O ring itself has been helpful for me to form a good seal and avoid leakage. I've been using a 1/2" socket to press the planetary shim down carefully after its centered so I can slip the input shaft in from the other side without displacing the O ring, then set the pin and place planetary gear on. The way I see it, the less slop behind the planetary gear, the less chance for oil to escape. As far as oil changes go, that's personal preference I think. I don't usually stress about it, but would like to do it after 10 packs or so, or when I feel motivated.
 
I think it definitely will if you're leaking diff fluid. The planetary shims help seal the little orange O ring better, helps keep it properly seated. I usually cover the shim with a drop of diff fluid before I place it over the O ring so it suctions/sticks in place better. Lightly greasing the O ring itself has been helpful for me to form a good seal and avoid leakage. I've been using a 1/2" socket to press the planetary shim down carefully after its centered so I can slip the input shaft in from the other side without displacing the O ring, then set the pin and place planetary gear on. The way I see it, the less slop behind the planetary gear, the less chance for oil to escape. As far as oil changes go, that's personal preference I think. I don't usually stress about it, but would like to do it after 10 packs or so, or when I feel motivated.
Agree Rich I reckon your spot on !!!
I Cooked a Centre diff after about 12 runs so I get a bit paranoid. Running in hot weather though.
Changed the diff case tonight and found the rear bearing was destroyed was wondering what that noise was on braking !!

That's what was left of the bearing !! And diff case

IMG_3064.JPG
 
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