DIY carbon chassis for RC

[nathanlow]

Hi folks,

Good day. Would like to get some input on the project as titled.

I am planning to DIY a flat carbon chassis for my Serpent SRX8 GTE 1/8 on road in order to save weight and offer some chassis flex.
Have some question to those who had made their own before.

1) Original aluminium chassis is 3mm thick. Should i follow the 3mm thick or make it thicker ? 3.5mm? 4mm?
2) How do you copy the holes ACCURATELY. I reckon that if done manually (Trace out the hole, and punch the center , its not going to be 100% accurate)
3) Any downsides to making the front end flat? (Original chassis has some kick up angle).
4) 3K Twill weave CF vs 3K plain weave CF?

Thank you all for your feedback.

 

[joostin420]

I fab’d a hybrid. 3k plain weave 3mm sandwiched for layered recesses for battery foam and the aluminum ends to be flush.

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/anyone-running-tp-4050cm-3200kv-on-6s.10069/

 

[Tex Koder]

Hi folks,

Good day. Would like to get some input on the project as titled.

I am planning to DIY a flat carbon chassis for my Serpent SRX8 GTE 1/8 on road in order to save weight and offer some chassis flex.
Have some question to those who had made their own before.

1) Original aluminium chassis is 3mm thick. Should i follow the 3mm thick or make it thicker ? 3.5mm? 4mm?
2) How do you copy the holes ACCURATELY. I reckon that if done manually (Trace out the hole, and punch the center , its not going to be 100% accurate)
3) Any downsides to making the front end flat? (Original chassis has some kick up angle).
4) 3K Twill weave CF vs 3K plain weave CF?

Thank you all for your feedback.

1. If your wallet allows ,always go as thick as you can. Cause thicker means stiffer.

2. Use painter's tape on the original chassis and copy all the holes with some alignment marks PLUS Outline & just transfer the whole thing over to CF to drill & cut.

3. Yeah, FLAT will effect your high speed performance , negatively.
You need that 10-15° kickup to give the rig some stability.
You could do like @StephenSchandelmayer and use Scorch's aluminum front kickup plates for that. Just need to cut the proper groove to accept it.

4. It's really a Personal preference.
(I'd like the twill weave.)

Good luck!
Keep us posted.

 

[nathanlow]

Tha ks Jus

I fab’d a hybrid. 3k plain weave sandwiched for layered recesses for battery foam and the aluminum ends to be flush.

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/anyone-running-tp-4050cm-3200kv-on-6s.10069/

View attachment 292177

Thanks Justin. Yup Ive read your thread. The whole 10 pages of it!

1. If your wallet allows ,always go as thick as you can. Cause thicker means stiffer.

2. Use painter's tape on the original chassis and copy all the holes with some alignment marks PLUS Outline & just transfer the whole thing over to CF to drill & cut.

3. Yeah, FLAT will effect your high speed performance , negatively.
You need that 10-15° kickup to give the rig some stability.
You could do like @StephenSchandelmayer and use Scorch's aluminum front kickup plates for that. Just need to cut the proper groove to accept it.

4. It's really a Personal preference.
(I'd like the twill weave.)

Good luck!
Keep us posted.

Thanks Tex.
1. Yup, will consider thicker then. But I want maximum weight saving also..
2. was thinking of this method too, but finding exact center was the challenge. Maybe will print out some centering tool to center my punch.
3. This car will be used for on road track racing, not speedruns. So, was wondering if it helps turn in better. Although this wud be illegal for IFMAR rules I think.

 

[Tex Koder]

Tha ks Jus

Thanks Justin. Yup Ive read your thread. The whole 10 pages of it!

Thanks Tex.
1. Yup, will consider thicker then. But I want maximum weight saving also..
2. was thinking of this method too, but finding exact center was the challenge. Maybe will print out some centering tool to center my punch.
3. This car will be used for on road track racing, not speedruns. So, was wondering if it helps turn in better. Although this wud be illegal for IFMAR rules I think.

1. Ah.. okay.
Than yes, go thinner would be more attuned to what you're needing.

2. If you need the holes to be exact -Another method would be to cut your CF chassis outline as close to the original as possible, then clamp the original on top of the CF and use it as a guide to use a drill all the screw holes.

3. Alright.
Well, you could create TWO CF chassis.
One completely flat and test it out afterwards to see if you like the handling. If not, then trim the second one to use the kickup plate.

 

[nathanlow]

1. Ah.. okay.
Than yes, go thinner would be more attuned to what you're needing.

2. If you need the holes to be exact -Another method would be to cut your CF chassis outline as close to the original as possible, then clamp the original on top of the CF and use it as a guide to use a drill all the screw holes.

3. Alright.
Well, you could create TWO CF chassis.
One completely flat and test it out afterwards to see if you like the handling. If not, then trim the second one to use the kickup plate.

thanks for your suggestions. Will update the process once i get the CF plates.

 

[nathanlow]

Update on my carbon chassis
1. Cut out external size (CF board, 4mm)
2. Clamp 2 ends, and drill 2 holes. Secure original chassis with bolt and nut
3. Drill all holes with guide from original chassis , then countersunk
4. Trace outline and bust out the angle grinder+ Dremel
5. Cut additional square holes to lighten (under motor, esc and Battery trays)Final weight
Aluminum chassis: 311 grams
Carbon plate (Before cut, drill notch) : 309 grams
After holes and notch : 167 grams!! Success!

Savings: 144grams (46% savings)
Now to test out the 0 degree kick up and rigidity.