Outcast DIY custom upgrade 4S Outcast and Kraton to standard 17mm hexes

[elschizo]

After I broke the screw inside my 4S axle and i didnt get any new ones I looked for another solution.
After toying around with the standard 4S wheel hex and noticed that the channels on the axle make it hard sometimes to properly set it with the grub screw and that creates wheel wobble.

To fix this:
Take a standard 6s wheel hex and put it on the axle. With the long Kraton ones you have to grind down the backside a little. Pin fits perfect.

Did test it on 4s on the weekend - works great.

Has following benefits:
- Sits better on the axle - almost no lateral play - no wobbling - more contact than standard 4S hex.
- Standard 17mm nuts not the small ones
- additional lock screw locks it in even better
- sits on the inner side of the bearing and rotates the same way as axle - so additional friction or heat.


Should work also on the 3S models too - if the axles arent to short ..maybe with smaller hexes from 6s typhon/talion


If somebody is able to design a new axle without channels and a 4mm threat - then I think thats a real improvement.

 

[Engineer]

Nice work, do you think it’s worth it to put a washer in between the hex and the lock nut? Is the lock nut digging into the aluminum hex at all?

 

[elschizo]

For sure adding a shim is beneficial. But since the nut is not really needed and not under much pressure it doesn't matter. Do not overtighten it a it pushes the hex against the axle pin.

 

[Emery Hall]

After I broke the screw inside my 4S axle and i didnt get any new ones I looked for another solution.
After toying around with the standard 4S wheel hex and noticed that the channels on the axle make it hard sometimes to properly set it with the grub screw and that creates wheel wobble.

To fix this:
Take a standard 6s wheel hex and put it on the axle. With the long Kraton ones you have to grind down the backside a little. Pin fits perfect.

Did test it on 4s on the weekend - works great.

Has following benefits:
- Sits better on the axle - almost no lateral play - no wobbling - more contact than standard 4S hex.
- Standard 17mm nuts not the small ones
- additional lock screw locks it in even better
- sits on the inner side of the bearing and rotates the same way as axle - so additional friction or heat.


Should work also on the 3S models too - if the axles arent to short ..maybe with smaller hexes from 6s typhon/talion


If somebody is able to design a new axle without channels and a 4mm threat - then I think thats a real improvement.

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This is suet unrelated but what shocks do you have front and rear? I am looking to upgrade my stick leaky ones on my 4s outcast

 

[elschizo]

6s typhon shocks, tekno springs yellow front and orange back if I remember correctly, still running stock oil but it's bouncy. Probably go for 1000cst when I service them.

 

[Emery Hall]

6s typhon shocks, tekno springs yellow front and orange back if I remember correctly, still running stock oil but it's bouncy. Probably go for 1000cst when I service them.

Ok, I also see the aluminum pillow ball kit. Was that relatively simple to install? What else was done to the truck?

 

[elschizo]

Hr pillow balls, diff oils, rpm arms, switched from swb to lwb( was original an outcast now kraton), tbr bumpers front and back, tbr chassis protector, sealed bearings, sr515 receiver, 25kg servo, 3d printed drive train cover, custom carbon tower to tower brace, custom diy battery tray, unbreakable bug body, 23mp.de 3d printed body mounts, 17mm 6s hex mod, gpm shock mount braces. Winter= wrench time: so soon 15t pinion, thicker shock oil, arrma cvds for the back. That's what I plan. Maybe alu diff cups. I think that's about it for my 4s . I have it a year now and quite happy about it. Less breakage than my 6s car. For bigger jumps it lacks the extra power of the 6s. Hope to fix it a little with the 15t pinion. Breakages until now: 1 stock a arm, 1 turnbuckle and the screw in the axle. Besides that axle got loose once or twice, driveshaft popped once on the diff cup. It's fast enough on 4s, does doubles all day long if the jump is right, takes a beating. Steering could be better under power, only overheated once. Also fun with street tires there also with 3s. I like the platform- I'm building a 4s powered 2600kv sensored typhon with a friend . I'm really hoping that the new 4s line upgrades will be backwards compatible and use all the 3s upgrades and add extra ones to beefcake it. I personally would like to get a real center diff( highly unlikely), cvd drive shafts, stronger towers, chassis stiffener on the bottom, a little more power.... To get a little tougher and more comparable strengthwise to a traxxas maxx.

 

[Rocketzx1]

Cool idea, but it’s just easier to buy the hot racing 17mm hex hubs for 27ish. They fit really well, no slop. And they add a bit of width, 10mm. I kno bicketybam uses them and he hasnt had any issues. I use them as well, I really like them. Just a thought.

 

[elschizo]

Sure buying is always easier. ? But these extenders are rare and hard to get in Europe. most of the time you must order it from the usa and with shipping and so you are about 40€. I got gpm extenders for my 6s and had problems with the thread as nuts with tighter tolerances won't fit on those.. And they add a little more leverage on the hubs.. but I didn't try the hr ones yet on my 4s. Send me a free set and I'll test it ? just kidding.