DIY stand alone chamber heater

[Camaroboy383]

Alright guy's, sneako peako at the case I designed for this project.... can't believe nobody has brought something like this to the market... Guess its finally time..

 

[King blitz]

 

[Tex Koder]

Portable heater that you can attach to Any 3D printer for that Extra Toastiness those special filaments require.

Million dollar invention

 

[King blitz]

Glad someone here knows what this thing is for a second I thought it was a squirrel trap that kept them cozy

 

[dure16]

Looks good! What kind of power and temps are we talking?

P.S. any tips for creating those slanted slots in F360?

 

[King blitz]

This would be handy to keep my lipos warm in the cold weather

 

[Camaroboy383]

Looks good! What kind of power and temps are we talking?

P.S. any tips for creating those slanted slots in F360?

Thanks man, well I'm going to start off with the 180 watt ptc and run some trial tests on max temps.. The controller maxes out at 99c.... im realistically shooting for the 65-70c range reliably.. If the 180 watt wont cut it I have a 300 watt..

Because these heaters are so amp hungry, (the 300watt mainly) I've added some redundancy to the circuit via a 30 amp mosfet.. instead of the controller taking all the load, it will just drive the mosfet..


So my method of the multiple slots in fusion.. I start by sketching the slot at my furthest end, or dead center...furthest forward, center or backward, placement doesn't matter...

After the slot is sketched, I use the create tab and look down at the bottom of the tab for rectangular pattern.. you select the sketch lines wanted and drag the length out either way or symmetrical..then in the tab to the right add whatever number you like and it will subdivide them out evenly...

I hope that makes sense..

 

[dure16]

Thanks man, well I'm going to start off with the 180 watt ptc and run some trial tests on max temps.. The controller maxes out at 99c.... im realistically shooting for the 65-70c range reliably.. If the 180 watt wont cut it I have a 300 watt..

Because these heaters are so amp hungry, (the 300watt mainly) I've added some redundancy to the circuit via a 30 amp mosfet.. instead of the controller taking all the load, it will just drive the mosfet..


So my method of the multiple slots in fusion.. I start by sketching the slot at my furthest end, or dead center...furthest forward, center or backward, placement doesn't matter...

After the slot is sketched, I use the create tab and look down at the bottom of the tab for rectangular pattern.. you select the sketch lines wanted and drag the length out either way or symmetrical..then in the tab to the right add whatever number you like and it will subdivide them out evenly...

I hope that makes sense..

Thank you! I've never used the pattern function.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

Thank you! I've never used the pattern function.

I was going to say the same by using the patten function is the easiest way. You can use that to get fancy with cool hex honeycomb designs that are fun to play with.
Another tool I use often is the parallel line function. Not ideal for this scenario but it will generate a parallel line for you at a given distance you specify.

Alright guy's, sneako peako at the case I designed for this project.... can't believe nobody has brought something like this to the market... Guess its finally time..

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View attachment 333024

Great idea and much needed in the market.
I had seen your other post on the subject of small heaters that have the right input voltage requirements. They work really well.

I made a LiPo warmer box with one using a temperature probe heat controller unit. For extra safety I run the heater element and fan off a separate relay and dedicated power source.

 

[RCbuzz]

Nice work! Curious is this what you are building?

https://www.amazon.com/Filalab-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat-ANYCUBIC/dp/B0BRJCVXLH

 

[Camaroboy383]

Nice work! Curious is this what you are building?

https://www.amazon.com/Filalab-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat-ANYCUBIC/dp/B0BRJCVXLH

Thanks man, sooo, yes and no... Those particular heaters are designed for resin printing.. 30c is not sufficient enough for fdm printing.. typically we are looking for at least 60c..

I was going to say the same by using the patten function is the easiest way. You can use that to get fancy with cool hex honeycomb designs that are fun to play with.
Another tool I use often is the parallel line function. Not ideal for this scenario but it will generate a parallel line for you at a given distance you specify.

Great idea and much needed in the market.
I had seen your other post on the subject of small heaters that have the right input voltage requirements. They work really well.

I made a LiPo warmer box with one using a temperature probe heat controller unit. For extra safety I run the heater element and fan off a separate relay and dedicated power source.

Ah yes, the parallel line function can be just as useful for sure.. really is nice to have the functions for more streamline designing, otherwise we would be there for hours sketching...

When you built your lipo warmer did you use a stc-1000 for your controller? Cheap little controller that comes in many configurations...



Alright, cruising right along now.. here is the base assembled with the meanwell PS, feet, and intake fan... Top half is printing now.... need to dig around for the correct hardware but tossed it together for a mock up and quite happy with the fit..

 

[RCbuzz]

Thanks man, sooo, yes and no... Those particular heaters are designed for resin printing.. 30c is not sufficient enough for fdm printing.. typically we are looking for at least 60c..


Ah yes, the parallel line function can be just as useful for sure.. really is nice to have the functions for more streamline designing, otherwise we would be there for hours sketching...

When you built your lipo warmer did you use a stc-1000 for your controller? Cheap little controller that comes in many configurations...



Alright, cruising right along now.. here is the base assembled with the meanwell PS, feet, and intake fan... Top half is printing now.... need to dig around for the correct hardware but tossed it together for a mock up and quite happy with the fit..

View attachment 333132

View attachment 333133

View attachment 333134

So cool, 60C! That would probably fry my E3Pro in an enclosure haha!

I saw in the description that premade unit has a 55watt heater and goes to 50C. Seems like that would be great for ABS.

 

[Camaroboy383]

So cool, 60C! That would probably fry my E3Pro in an enclosure haha!

I saw in the description that premade unit has a 55watt heater and goes to 50C. Seems like that would be great for ABS.

Yes sir that would definitely help.. I didn't realize the unit went to 50c.. that's pretty cool.. my printers will maintain right around 50c with print bed residual heat.. but that is a nifty little product for sure..

 

[RCbuzz]

Yes sir that would definitely help.. I didn't realize the unit went to 50c.. that's pretty cool.. my printers will maintain right around 50c with print bed residual heat.. but that is a nifty little product for sure..

That is impressive!

 

[Tex Koder]

I need more heat!?

Bad hair...

 

[Camaroboy383]

Man that was so close to being complete.. bad hair...... one thing that may be a work around for you is turning combing off and having it z-hop .8 or so and set back down after the travel... It may be knocking it loose during travel moves..

Also are you using any kind of adhesive on the bed?
Can try bumping up the bed temp too.. or draft shield..

That is impressive!

That new k1 I got will hang right at 49-50c with a 80c setting on the bed... That is with no insulation.. I'm with you on that one, impressive for sure.. that real tempered glass makes quite a difference..

 

[Camaroboy383]

So just mocked up the box wiring and while I was at it I ran it through a couple tests.. I wanted to monitor mosfet heat mainly.. but was also able to test the output of the 180w ptc..

Mosfet is way overkill, which is a good thing.. the fet heatsink remains cold to the touch at all times under full load.. perfect!

I was able to monitor with the thermistor 84.5c out of the face of the 180 watt heater in about 2.5 minutes... pretty dang impressive for such a small device..

Then I checked the 300 watt ptc.. All I can say is WOW... ... Blowing well over 100c out the face of the heater in less than a minute.. this is the route I'm going.. it's instant heat, and the mosfet is still cool as a cucumber..

man i love when a plan comes together.. next i will test it in the k1 enclosure.. ill be fair and set the bed at a moderate 70c to see exactly how much punch it has.... ..

 

[Camaroboy383]

 

[Tex Koder]

Man that was so close to being complete.. bad hair...... one thing that may be a work around for you is turning combing off and having it z-hop .8 or so and set back down after the travel... It may be knocking it loose during travel moves..

Also are you using any kind of adhesive on the bed?
Can try bumping up the bed temp too.. or draft shield..


That new k1 I got will hang right at 49-50c with a 80c setting on the bed... That is with no insulation.. I'm with you on that one, impressive for sure.. that real tempered glass makes quite a difference..

I had Brim ON ,with Brim Line Count = 20
Bed = 70°

I do have Combing OFF

And I have Z Hop ON ; Z Hop Only Over Printed Parts ON ; Z Hop Height = 0.2mm

Do you feel I really need to adjust it to 0.8 ??



Wow!! , that Draft Shield is a filament Waster!!
I might as well just tape a piece of folded up paper around the print....

 

[LibertyMKiii]

When you built your lipo warmer did you use a stc-1000 for your controller? Cheap little controller that comes in many configurations...

Yep that is the one. Hard to beat the price and function.
I found mine to be off by nearly 20 F. so you may want to use an IR gun when you do some initial tests.

I have to set it for something like 103 F to hit my target temp of 120F.