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They are supposed to be comparable with EC.. so the IC3 should work with ec3 and xt60. The IC5 will only work with the EC5.Is anyone using HHs new connectors? They're sold under spektrum brand for some reason... the IC3 and IC5s. Thoughts on these? They seem more similar to XTs than HHs EC connectors.
Thread necro but.... you can adjust how tightly the XT90s grip. The pins are split in an X. On the male pins use needle nose pliers to squeeze the pin together tighter and it will go together and come apart more easily. If it's too lose just tap a punch or a small finish nail in the middle of the pins to push them apart, then squeeze back together a bit at a time until it's at the right level of "tightness" or friction.I recently switched everything to XT90 as well. Really good connection, but sometimes a little hard to take apart. I consider that a good thing, as I've had different connectors that would come apart during hard bash sessions. Soldering was hard at first, but I learned that attaching a male and female together while you're doing it, makes for much better results. If I get a new rig that has different, I'll likely switch to the XT90. In the case of the new Arrmas, which will be using the new IC5 smart connector, probably going to have to buy an adapter.
Thanks for that, but my issue is the plastic housing. I guess during the soldering process, the plastic may shrink or swell a bit. I always use a male and female linked together when soldering, but haven't always been able to negate the result. Not that big of a problem though, as long as I don't pull out wires while trying to separate them lol.Thread necro but.... you can adjust how tightly the XT90s grip. The pins are split in an X. On the male pins use needle nose pliers to squeeze the pin together tighter and it will go together and come apart more easily. If it's too lose just tap a punch or a small finish nail in the middle of the pins to push them apart, then squeeze back together a bit at a time until it's at the right level of "tightness" or friction.
I thought mine was the plastic too, it seemed to be. I thought I melted it. But squeezing the pins foxes it for me every time.Thanks for that, but my issue is the plastic housing. I guess during the soldering process, the plastic may shrink or swell a bit. I always use a male and female linked together when soldering, but haven't always been able to negate the result. Not that big of a problem though, as long as I don't pull out wires while trying to separate them lol.
I will definitely check that then. Totally possible and now that I'm considering it, probably likely too. Don't think I check the pins on that one battery.I thought mine was the plastic too, it seemed to be. I thought I melted it. But squeezing the pins foxes it for me every time.
Heat the metal on the plug and add a little solder (this is called "tinning"). Do the same on the wire. After this put the wire and metal plug together with just a little bit more solder and join the wire to the plug. Finally (once the solder has cooled) push the metal plug with the wire attached into the plastic connector.Whats the trick to doing the ec5's? Do you solder then push it in or do you push it in then solder? Reason I ask is my buddies kept pulling out of the plug.
It's not really a problem with the right support tools and a hot iron. But how is my grandma going to do it? What about the other 60% of the world who has little or no experience with solder. I know, the Deans were even worse. And I know, you get into this hobby, you do not have to be certified tech, but as parts get more expensive, RTR certainly helped. I used to only do kits. Now, it's a blessing it's built already because you're going in there sometime.
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