Vorteks Does my Vorteks sound right?

[luis_vorteks]

Hey

During a run my Vorteks started to sounds weird. The usual sound it makes is like continuous but not anymore. There are no noticeable drops in power.

I've checked diffs, pinion, mesh. Actually, both diffs are new, as changing bearings didn't change anything. Also every moving part is clean and oil was applied where needed. The only two things I didn't strip down are the engine and clutch. Could they be the reason for the way the car sounds?

The recording is not ideal but I think you can still identify the way the car sounds. I'll appreciate any tips on what can be the issue
Vorteks video

 

[Senton_Prime]

Any smoother road near by!!
You could bench it and check it out again to get a good birds eye view/sound!!

 

[luis_vorteks]

I know sorry. I'll find somewhere flatter and w/o so much debris for the recording.

 

[Senton_Prime]

Or throw it on the stand when u get home!?

 

[luis_vorteks]

I recorded a new video this time indoors and with the help of my 4y.o. behind the camera

There is still something to me in the way the car sounds but it's much less noticeable. I start to think that it is eventually something related with the drivetrain. It's a little wobbly but all the bearings are ok.

Let me know what you think, please.

Find the recording here

 

[Senton_Prime]

Were you hitting the brake.. sounds like the slipper may be loose!?

 

[luis_vorteks]

After going full throttle, yes

 

[Senton_Prime]

Take a close up on the slipper, let's check it out!?

 

[luis_vorteks]

Sure, I hope I will be able to find a moment before next weekend

 

[Velodromed]

That electronic chigging sound you hear immediately prior to acceleration is cogging. I would reduce the pinion a couple teeth. It also sounds a bit labored, again I’d recommend reducing a couple pinion teeth.

So whatever pinion you’re running now, reduced it by two and see if that helps. If I remember right you’re running a higher KV motor so definitely need a smaller pinion anyway…

 

[luis_vorteks]

. I would reduce the pinion a couple teeth

Thanks @Velodromed. I'm running everything stock. The pinion is a 18T if I'm not wrong. The motor is a 3200kv

It also sounds a bit labored

Does it mean the diffs or something else is forcing it too much then?

Just one thing, I was running a 2s lipo while recording in home. Not sure if it has some impact besides how the ESC works, it shouldn't, right?

 

[Velodromed]

Thanks @Velodromed. I'm running everything stock. The pinion is a 18T if I'm not wrong. The motor is a 3200kv

Does it mean the diffs or something else is forcing it too much then?

Just one thing, I was running a 2s lipo while recording in home. Not sure if it has some impact besides how the ESC works, it shouldn't, right?

OK, that’s the same size motor kv that comes with the stock 3s version. When I first started running my Vorteks, the 18t stock pinion was just a bit much between the cogging and overheating, so I went down to a 16. Also, these things run decent on 2s, just have to give it more throttle.

 

[Velodromed]

I’m remembering the 18t pinion was great for wide open throttle runs…but I like to do slower technical stuff along with speed bashing. After I put in a smaller pinion I then installed a granite front shock tower, so I could run mojave 6s front shocks up front to match the same on the rear, typhon/big rock arms, TBone front bumper, old style Arrma rear wheelie bar, m2c 17mm adapters and Badlands MX28s.

 

[SrC]

Hey

During a run my Vorteks started to sounds weird. The usual sound it makes is like continuous but not anymore. There are no noticeable drops in power.

I've checked diffs, pinion, mesh. Actually, both diffs are new, as changing bearings didn't change anything. Also every moving part is clean and oil was applied where needed. The only two things I didn't strip down are the engine and clutch. Could they be the reason for the way the car sounds?

The recording is not ideal but I think you can still identify the way the car sounds. I'll appreciate any tips on what can be the issue
Vorteks video

Yeah what you describe here is that you never removed the Power Module. That is always the first place to start/remove. Even regularly for maintenance reasons. Must be cleaned out etc. Collects dirt etc in this area normally.
The motor mount screws probably loosened and mesh is "Off", or even the Motor mount may have Bent. 2 very Common issues with the 4x4 line.
Use Blue Thread locker on the Motor mount screws when setting the mesh. Let cure for 24 hours before running the rig.
Replace the Motor mount if even slightly bent. Or you will be replacing the spur/ pinion often.

 

[luis_vorteks]

Yeah what you describe here is that you never removed the Power Module. That is always the first place to start/remove. Even regularly for maintenance reasons. Must be cleaned out etc. Collects dirt etc in this area normally.
The motor mount screws probably loosened and mesh is "Off", or even the Motor mount may have Bent. 2 very Common issues with the 4x4 line.
Use Blue Thread locker on the Motor mount screws when setting the mesh. Let cure for 24 hours before running the rig.
Replace the Motor mount if even slightly bent. Or you will be replacing the spur/ pinion often.

Maybe I was not clear, I didn't open the motor itself, like didn't open the bin in which it is, or split apart the clutch. But I do usually remove the power module after every off-road run, found it super difficult to remove it if a minimal amount of grit gets around the sliding bits.

Once every 2-3 runs I open the power module and use a brush + a high pressure air cleaner to remove dust and check if visually the gear teeth seem to be in good shape. Last time, besides what I just described, before recording the videos, I also checked the metalic motor mounting plate cause I was sure i had bent it and this was causing the cyclic sound. To my surprise it was totally straight as I put it on the table.

I'm not a mesh specialist but I regularly check the pinion and gear moving tooth by tooth and making sure they are not too tight or too lose, just with the amount of play I've seen knowledgeable people from the forum do when setting their cars.

Still, as @Velodromed proposed, i need to check the clutch what I've never done before

 

[Velodromed]

i need to check the clutch what I've never done before

It’s not that hard but is easily possible to damage it by overtightening the hub. There’s many different methods and the one I use is by feel. I tighten the clutch screw just to a very light point and then I’ll put everything together and test. If it screams it’s too loose if it rockets its tight, if it chirps then engages…that’s what I pretty much look for.
I like to clean the spurcase, check bearings and check the adjustments of the spur every 5-6 runs.