Dread's Fury(Mega)

Unusual RC

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Arrma RC's
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Not unlike you own country Unusual.

Spot on, Dreadstar! ;)
Indeed my country get's tons of rain, which turns almost every dirt track (and lawn) into a puddle of mud!

Luckily I found some construction sites where they piled up sand/clay/dirt mixture six feet above the ground. This way rain water flows to the bottom fast, while the top dries very quick.

I am always looking for those places. But they depend on the type of soil you have locally.

Nice looking shocks by the way!
 

Dreadstar

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There is only one problem with these new shocks,too many holes on the rear pistons(3). I'm currently in the process of stripping the shocks down and replacing the 3-hole pistons with 2-hole ones,which should help. At the moment,the springs are doing all the work but the oil is doing nothing,resulting in a very bouncy rear end.
Truth be told, the kit shocks are actually rather good,and if they fit,the pistons will be coming out of them and getting fitted in the new shocks,when the kit ones finally die.

I replaced the shock pistons with a pair of Kyosho 2-hole ones,which not only have smaller slots in them,but are also a tighter fit in the shock bore. What a difference these have made,the rear now feels very plush,rather than bouncing all over the place.

Finally stripped out the diff to replace the grease with 7000wt oil,boy is that ever frustrating,the first time you try to remove that diff. Then when you're reassembling the truck and you wonder why you have screws left over,then realise that you haven't replaced the rear bumper yet.....doh! This weekend,I intend to buy some screwed rod,in order to make up a pair of steering links as well as rear wheel links. If I can get some stainless stock or medium carbon steel(EN9),I'll be laughing,otherwise it'll just have to be EN3(mild steel),in either M4 or M5.
 

Dreadstar

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Thank goodness that I have a load of r/c's laying about. I just solved the turnbuckle/link problem on my Fury,I stripped the front links off my RC10T3,re-set them,(they have RPM ballcups too),and fitted them straight on. I also switched the ballstud rear hub mounting to the inner hole.

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Dreadstar

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I'm sorry,but I don't,as I said,they had been on my old T3,which I'd bought 2nd hand many years ago. They look about the same size as the stock TA rod ends.
I think that they may be SKU 73372 4-40 rod ends,if that helps.
 
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Dreadstar

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Ok,so I gave you RPM's #,in that case,Yellow-LXRB07(73377) or Blue-LXRB08(73375),the (73372 ones are black). Be warned though,you will need pliers to be able to snap these rod ends into place,as they are really tight.
 
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Dreadstar

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justatree,the reason that they are very bouncy is that the piston holes are too big. I replaced the supplied pistons with some Kyosho 2-hole pistons that I had,which used smaller slots and were a tighter fit in the bore.

Mrbelloso,I just used the complete tie-rod assy that I had on my T3,so they're Team Associated T3/T4 tie-rods.
 

justatree

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justatree,the reason that they are very bouncy is that the piston holes are too big. I replaced the supplied pistons with some Kyosho 2-hole pistons that I had,which used smaller slots and were a tighter fit in the bore.

Mrbelloso,I just used the complete tie-rod assy that I had on my T3,so they're Team Associated T3/T4 tie-rods.
Do you happen to know the part number for those pistons?
 

Dreadstar

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Unfortunately not,I just took the pistons out of a couple of spare shocks that I had to hand. I'll have a look and see what I can come up with though.
 

Dreadstar

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The more that I'm tinkering with this truck,the more I'm getting to like it. Now don't get me wrong,I've still got quite a few upgrades to do to it,including sourcing some reinforcing side plates. On tarmac,this truck really performs well,even with those stock tyres,especially with approx 4 degrees of camber on the rear wheels and 1-2degrees on the front. Coming from a buggy background,I'm also running with around 2 degrees of toe-out on the front,which seems to help on cornering,I've yet to roll this thing since I made the camber mods. The only thing wrong with the kit tyres is that they really do drift in cornering at speed,I'm hoping that the wheel/tyre combo's that I've ordered up will be a bit softer in compound.
If these wheel adapters fit and I can use my 1/8th scale wheels,then I'm more or less set for almost any surface, from dry grass/dirt;wet grass/mud;wet/dry Astroturf. The only surface that these tyres can't really run on is tarmac,as they're far too soft and will wear out too quickly.

Please don't ask me the names of the tyres,as I no longer remember them.

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The spikes work best on wet astro;the muddy one works best on soft,not muddy ground,the next on dry astro and the (now worn) step pins work best on wet grass/mud. I ran the red wheels and tyres for a full season on grass,both wet and dry and have been my favourite tyre to date,but,they're not all that great on astro,especially if the surface is at all damp,here the spikes win out.
None of these tyres are new,they've all done at least one season on the track.

One thing that I can't get my head around is this fascination for running trucks on 3s,how on earth can you race with that sort of power under your shell. For me,2s is more than adequate,I'm not the best driver around by a long shot,but slow is fast as they say. If I can get the truck running consistantly well at around the mid 30mph range,I'll be more than happy.
 
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